2010 camaro possible electrical issues - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Kaylakms · 11-19-2020, 07:03 PM

Whether these are actually related or not i'm not sure

Since i've owned the car, the tail light bulbs will blow randomly and have some type of blue residue stuff on the inside of them, it has gotten progressively worse, for a while i was burning through alternators at the connection for (power?) The bolt would literally fall off and the alternators wires were burned through, (sparks) etc.

Recently the key fob stopped working completely, before that it was on and off, if i lock the car from the inside it used to beep when i would use my key to unlock ig from the door, it doesn't do that anymore, no flashing red light or anything (don't know if that's normal) i have dealt with all of this, just keep replacing bulbs, but now it's my license plate lights that are going out, and it is both of them, i just replaced the bulbs in them about two weeks ago, now the bulbs are no longer working.

Does anyone know if this has something to do with the BCM, and if it is, how much does it usually cost for a new bcm?

Chevy wants almost 130$ an hour to start looking into any eletrical issues, and a 130$ diagnostic fee for the keyfob, and that's if they can even find out what it is, if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate it.

Sparko · 11-20-2020, 03:35 PM

If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the connector at the BCM for the taillights, remove the bulb, then take a resistance reading between each wire and the chassis (ground). It should be infinite (open), anything else and you would have a short in the harness. If your talking about a residue on the inside of the glass when the bulb blew, that's common when a bulb blows. The filament literally vaporizes and is deposited on the glass.

Dumb question, did you replace the battery in your key fob?

Regarding the alternator, it sound like it is no longer an issue? If you had issues with the connection loosening and falling off, that could potentially surge the electrical system which could cause issues inside sensitive electronics (ie: the BCM) which could cause them to short or otherwise cease proper functioning.

Kaylakms · 11-21-2020, 08:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sparko

If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the connector at the BCM for the taillights, remove the bulb, then take a resistance reading between each wire and the chassis (ground). It should be infinite (open), anything else and you would have a short in the harness. If your talking about a residue on the inside of the glass when the bulb blew, that's common when a bulb blows. The filament literally vaporizes and is deposited on the glass.

Dumb question, did you replace the battery in your key fob?

Regarding the alternator, it sound like it is no longer an issue? If you had issues with the connection loosening and falling off, that could potentially surge the electrical system which could cause issues inside sensitive electronics (ie: the BCM) which could cause them to short or otherwise cease proper functioning.

Yes, new battery 3 times in the keyfob, have no idea what the heck is going on, i just have a bad feeling it has something to do with the bcm, though i do not know the symptoms of a bad bcm, everything else seems to work fine, also the alternator was literally burning / catching on what looked like an electrical fire at the bolt until it would burn through the wires of the alternator and it would be running just on the battery

Rock-It Man · 11-22-2020, 08:36 AM

I would not be replacing the BCM until you get a diagnosis from the dealer.

In my experience, one thing dealers do better than your local independent garage is to isolate and fix electrical problems.

It sounds like there may be a short to ground somewhere. Are you the original owner? Is there any accessory equipment? Has there been any collision repair? These are questions that might help guide the diagnosis, no matter who does it.

Kaylakms · 11-23-2020, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rock-It Man

I would not be replacing the BCM until you get a diagnosis from the dealer.

In my experience, one thing dealers do better than your local independent garage is to isolate and fix electrical problems.

It sounds like there may be a short to ground somewhere. Are you the original owner? Is there any accessory equipment? Has there been any collision repair? These are questions that might help guide the diagnosis, no matter who does it.

Not the original owner, and no accessory equipment, and no collision.

11-19-2020, 07:03 PM	#1
Kaylakms Drives: 2016 LGX Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: Pa Posts: 30	2010 camaro possible electrical issues Whether these are actually related or not i'm not sure Since i've owned the car, the tail light bulbs will blow randomly and have some type of blue residue stuff on the inside of them, it has gotten progressively worse, for a while i was burning through alternators at the connection for (power?) The bolt would literally fall off and the alternators wires were burned through, (sparks) etc. Recently the key fob stopped working completely, before that it was on and off, if i lock the car from the inside it used to beep when i would use my key to unlock ig from the door, it doesn't do that anymore, no flashing red light or anything (don't know if that's normal) i have dealt with all of this, just keep replacing bulbs, but now it's my license plate lights that are going out, and it is both of them, i just replaced the bulbs in them about two weeks ago, now the bulbs are no longer working. Does anyone know if this has something to do with the BCM, and if it is, how much does it usually cost for a new bcm? Chevy wants almost 130$ an hour to start looking into any eletrical issues, and a 130$ diagnostic fee for the keyfob, and that's if they can even find out what it is, if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate it.

11-20-2020, 03:35 PM	#2
Sparko Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS Join Date: May 2019 Location: Rochester, NY Posts: 152 View My Garage	If you have a multimeter you can disconnect the connector at the BCM for the taillights, remove the bulb, then take a resistance reading between each wire and the chassis (ground). It should be infinite (open), anything else and you would have a short in the harness. If your talking about a residue on the inside of the glass when the bulb blew, that's common when a bulb blows. The filament literally vaporizes and is deposited on the glass. Dumb question, did you replace the battery in your key fob? Regarding the alternator, it sound like it is no longer an issue? If you had issues with the connection loosening and falling off, that could potentially surge the electrical system which could cause issues inside sensitive electronics (ie: the BCM) which could cause them to short or otherwise cease proper functioning. __________________ 2010 Camaro 2SS 2018 Charger GT+ 2005 Cavailer LS S/C - Sold '87 HD FXRT - Wrecked pending repair

11-22-2020, 08:36 AM	#4
Rock-It Man 376 cubic inches of fun Drives: 2023 Camaro ZL1 A10 Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: MA Posts: 4,030 View My Garage	I would not be replacing the BCM until you get a diagnosis from the dealer. In my experience, one thing dealers do better than your local independent garage is to isolate and fix electrical problems. It sounds like there may be a short to ground somewhere. Are you the original owner? Is there any accessory equipment? Has there been any collision repair? These are questions that might help guide the diagnosis, no matter who does it.