"Perfect Kicker" System

burnningice · 03-18-2017, 10:18 PM

Hey guys I just bought a 2016 1SS. The factory system sounds horrible so I'm going to do an upgrade.

I have installed Infinity Kappa Perfect Component 6.5" speakers in the front and the rear. The rear is the only place where you can see that the speakers have been changed because of the flush mounted tweeter.
I am installing 2 Kicker KX amps. 800.5 and 1600.1
I'm looking for a box that will fit one L7 12" but haven't found someone that sells one. I may need to build one.
I'm mounting the amps and crossover networks between the ram rails where the factory amp is located. I relocated the fuse box that was in the same well to the top of the right rear wheel well.

I will post some pictures of my progress. I do have some questions though. From the wiring diagrams that I have looked at from mitchel on demand and alldata, the factory radio sends out 4 channels of audio the the amp and then the amp sends out 4 channels of audio. If this is the case, why is everyone wasting their money on a summing device?

I know if you were going to use a LOC on the factory amp to feed signal to a sub amp you need to disconnect the 3 factory ANC mics. It is in the same harness as the turn signal wires.

Where does the turn signal clicking noise come from? if it comes from the deck its not a problem. If it's produced in the amp you would loose the clicking.

burnningice · 03-18-2017, 10:29 PM

Here are some progress pics.

wal-dog · 03-18-2017, 10:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnningice

Hey guys I just bought a 2016 1SS. The factory system sounds horrible so I'm going to do an upgrade.

I have installed Infinity Kappa Perfect Component 6.5" speakers in the front and the rear. The rear is the only place where you can see that the speakers have been changed because of the flush mounted tweeter.
I am installing 2 Kicker KX amps. 800.5 and 1600.1
I'm looking for a box that will fit one L7 12" but haven't found someone that sells one. I may need to build one.
I'm mounting the amps and crossover networks between the ram rails where the factory amp is located. I relocated the fuse box that was in the same well to the top of the right rear wheel well.

I will post some pictures of my progress. I do have some questions though. From the wiring diagrams that I have looked at from mitchel on demand and alldata, the factory radio sends out 4 channels of audio the the amp and then the amp sends out 4 channels of audio. If this is the case, why is everyone wasting their money on a summing device?

I know if you were going to use a LOC on the factory amp to feed signal to a sub amp you need to disconnect the 3 factory ANC mics. It is in the same harness as the turn signal wires.

Where does the turn signal clicking noise come from? if it comes from the deck its not a problem. If it's produced in the amp you would loose the clicking.

Since Mylink sends a digital signal to the factory amp you have to keep it. A lOC like an LC7i is a great way to get RCA's from the speaker wires. Your right, just fronts and rears in the 1SS so summing isn't necessary and one could get away with a little less of a LOC.

Hyper1SS · 03-19-2017, 08:51 AM

Wow. Keep us posted. Sub by thump can build that box for you. I have talked to them and they was going to build me one but I decided to go with a small Kicker enclosure so it can be moved around or taken out easily. Give them a shout.

burnningice · 03-19-2017, 09:01 AM

Is that ********.com?

burnningice · 03-19-2017, 09:02 AM

Wtf? Why can I write. Sub thump .com?

Hyper1SS · 03-19-2017, 09:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnningice

Wtf? Why can I write. Sub thump .com?

Because they do not have a seller account and are not a sponser. But yes that is them. I spoke with Steve Moster which I think is the owner.

burnningice · 03-19-2017, 11:20 PM

The amp install is complete. I can confirm that you do not need to keep your factory amplifier. The radio sends out 4 channels of unfiltered audio. You can run these into a LOC or you can send the directly into your amp if it accepts high level inputs.

You do not loose anything by removing the factory amp. Turn signals still clicks and door still bongs when the door is open or lights are on.

From my research it looks like every one of these cars have amplifiers from the factory. Can anyone confirm this?

Here is a picture with the amps and crossover installed after relocating the fuse box.

Hyper1SS · 03-20-2017, 04:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by burnningice

The amp install is complete. I can confirm that you do not need to keep your factory amplifier. The radio sends out 4 channels of unfiltered audio. You can run these into a LOC or you can send the directly into your amp if it accepts high level inputs.

You do not loose anything by removing the factory amp. Turn signals still clicks and door still bongs when the door is open or lights are on.

From my research it looks like every one of these cars have amplifiers from the factory. Can anyone confirm this?

Here is a picture with the amps and crossover installed after relocating the fuse box.

Looks damn good!!! I don't think all models come with the factory amp. Can't wait to see it all done. Have you decided what your going to do about a enclosure? Where was you able to put the fuse box and did you have to change anything running to it?

Darth Martel · 03-20-2017, 07:20 AM

Wait, hold up... The Mylink actually sends out a full range audio signal and we don't need a decoder? This information is amazing as it's been assumed that all Mylinks output a coded signal. It will make upgrading our 1SS factory systems so much easier.

You have a nice clean setup. Great work! And great job in trying something we figured was impossible because of a faulty assumption.

KUDOS!!!

Darth Martel · 03-20-2017, 07:23 AM

I have a question, did you replace the tweeters in the dash? If so, how did you go about doing that?

thanks in advance

Darth Martel · 03-20-2017, 07:25 AM

All SS's come with a factory amp. I'm not sure about the lower models but, I'm assuming the RS package comes with the amp. Not sure if RS means Bose amp or regular amp though.

burnningice · 03-20-2017, 09:04 AM

Thanks guys. I am an Autotech at best buy with a MECP master certification so I've been around the block a few times. I figured that I'd try this out and let you guys know if it works or not.

Relocating fuse box: I did not have to cut or extend any wires. I unplugged all 3 connectors, rerouted the wire and plugged the connectors back in. Then I used some screws to bolt the fuse box to the wheel well.

Tweeter: I installed infinity kappa perfect components and used the tweeters in the factory locations. The factory tweeter is not a standard size. I modified the old tweeter to use as a bracket for my new tweeter. To take the tweeters out you pull the a pillars off. It exposes one 7mm screw on each side. After removing that screw the rest of the panel lifts strait up.

burnningice · 03-20-2017, 09:06 AM

If you look at my amps mounted you'll see my fuse holder at the bottom. I mounted both fuse holders on the angled part of the floor.

I have not found a sub box yet. I may have to make one. I would prefer to buy one. I have a single kicker L7 12 that I plan to use.

03-18-2017, 10:18 PM	#1
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	"Perfect Kicker" System Hey guys I just bought a 2016 1SS. The factory system sounds horrible so I'm going to do an upgrade. I have installed Infinity Kappa Perfect Component 6.5" speakers in the front and the rear. The rear is the only place where you can see that the speakers have been changed because of the flush mounted tweeter. I am installing 2 Kicker KX amps. 800.5 and 1600.1 I'm looking for a box that will fit one L7 12" but haven't found someone that sells one. I may need to build one. I'm mounting the amps and crossover networks between the ram rails where the factory amp is located. I relocated the fuse box that was in the same well to the top of the right rear wheel well. I will post some pictures of my progress. I do have some questions though. From the wiring diagrams that I have looked at from mitchel on demand and alldata, the factory radio sends out 4 channels of audio the the amp and then the amp sends out 4 channels of audio. If this is the case, why is everyone wasting their money on a summing device? I know if you were going to use a LOC on the factory amp to feed signal to a sub amp you need to disconnect the 3 factory ANC mics. It is in the same harness as the turn signal wires. Where does the turn signal clicking noise come from? if it comes from the deck its not a problem. If it's produced in the amp you would loose the clicking.

03-18-2017, 10:29 PM	#2
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	Here are some progress pics. Attached Images

03-19-2017, 08:51 AM	#4
Hyper1SS Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 NPP Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Indiana Posts: 891	Wow. Keep us posted. Sub by thump can build that box for you. I have talked to them and they was going to build me one but I decided to go with a small Kicker enclosure so it can be moved around or taken out easily. Give them a shout. __________________ 2016 Hyper Blue Metallic 1SS M6 with body color hood vents, Silver broken 5 spoke wheels, NPP dual exhaust, Dark Night Interior Spectrum Lighting, Illuminated door sills plates. Upgrades include: Roto-Fab intake, Mishimoto catch can, MBRP cat-back Race exhaust, TSP 1 7/8 headers, EFI E85 Flex Fuel, MRR M017 graphite wheels with Nitto N555 G2 tires, Goodridge stainless steel brake lines, Powder coated Brembo calipers, BMR suspension, Eibach sport springs, Emblempros fender badges Order ID: TDHQMS 1100 on 01/07/2016 at Penske Chevrolet 6000 on 02/23/2016 Delivered to customer

03-19-2017, 11:20 PM	#8
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	The amp install is complete. I can confirm that you do not need to keep your factory amplifier. The radio sends out 4 channels of unfiltered audio. You can run these into a LOC or you can send the directly into your amp if it accepts high level inputs. You do not loose anything by removing the factory amp. Turn signals still clicks and door still bongs when the door is open or lights are on. From my research it looks like every one of these cars have amplifiers from the factory. Can anyone confirm this? Here is a picture with the amps and crossover installed after relocating the fuse box. Attached Images

03-20-2017, 07:20 AM	#10
Darth Martel Darth Martel Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bizzaroland Posts: 1,496	Wait, hold up... The Mylink actually sends out a full range audio signal and we don't need a decoder? This information is amazing as it's been assumed that all Mylinks output a coded signal. It will make upgrading our 1SS factory systems so much easier. You have a nice clean setup. Great work! And great job in trying something we figured was impossible because of a faulty assumption. KUDOS!!! __________________ 2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.

03-19-2017, 09:01 AM	#5
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	Is that ********.com?

03-19-2017, 09:02 AM	#6
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	Wtf? Why can I write. Sub thump .com?

03-20-2017, 07:23 AM	#11
Darth Martel Darth Martel Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bizzaroland Posts: 1,496	I have a question, did you replace the tweeters in the dash? If so, how did you go about doing that? thanks in advance __________________ 2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.

03-20-2017, 07:25 AM	#12
Darth Martel Darth Martel Drives: Black 1SS with 20% tinted windows Join Date: May 2009 Location: Bizzaroland Posts: 1,496	All SS's come with a factory amp. I'm not sure about the lower models but, I'm assuming the RS package comes with the amp. Not sure if RS means Bose amp or regular amp though. __________________ 2016 Black 1SS w/ MRC, low-gloss black wheels, auto trans. Self-created custom Dark Knight Edition accents. Rotofab CAI with dry filter and sound tube delete, PRAY ported intake manifold and throttle body, Texas Speed cam, Stainless Works headers and exhaust, Skid Mark garage E85 kit, JMS fuel pump voltage booster, Circle D torque converter. Custom E85/mod tune by Jannetty Racing.

03-20-2017, 09:04 AM	#13
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	Thanks guys. I am an Autotech at best buy with a MECP master certification so I've been around the block a few times. I figured that I'd try this out and let you guys know if it works or not. Relocating fuse box: I did not have to cut or extend any wires. I unplugged all 3 connectors, rerouted the wire and plugged the connectors back in. Then I used some screws to bolt the fuse box to the wheel well. Tweeter: I installed infinity kappa perfect components and used the tweeters in the factory locations. The factory tweeter is not a standard size. I modified the old tweeter to use as a bracket for my new tweeter. To take the tweeters out you pull the a pillars off. It exposes one 7mm screw on each side. After removing that screw the rest of the panel lifts strait up.

03-20-2017, 09:06 AM	#14
burnningice Drives: 2016 SS Mosaic Black Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Murfreesboro, TN Posts: 438	If you look at my amps mounted you'll see my fuse holder at the bottom. I mounted both fuse holders on the angled part of the floor. I have not found a sub box yet. I may have to make one. I would prefer to buy one. I have a single kicker L7 12 that I plan to use.

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