2014 SIM 1SS/1LE Search & Build Thread

[RyangAsh]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Nice #! I drove a stock ZL1 was in awe of the power, haha, let lone 700+.

Was your '97 modded?

Glad you like the videos, If it helps or entertains, that's cool.

Oh boy, the 97 had 5 different set ups, I think? 6 Speed car.

First build: 383, LE2 heads, cam intake, 4:10 gears, tons of suspension parts.

Second: Spun a bearing or two in the 383, went to a 385, windowed that motor at 7200. Rod spun around, broke the camshaft in half and shot it out the front of the motor.

Third build: Factory LT1, low mileage and decided it needed a TH350.

Fourth: Back to 6 speed, rebuilt the 6 speed with all the good parts myself, it was a fun learning experience.

Fifth and final, LE, HCI on factor shortblock(4bolt) car ran great. Consistent upper 11's...

Sold it for pennies and tried to buy it back the week before my 15 1LE only to find it had left the highway at 70mph and was a beercan.

Such is life. I would love to have that car back for a full blown drag car build.


The videos are great! The have some pretty awesome stuff to sync up with these days. Track attack and what not. I think all that would be fun, but I wouldn't like stuff hanging all over the place.


Any winter time plans for this bad boy of yours?

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by RyangAsh

Oh boy, the 97 had 5 different set ups, I think? 6 Speed car.

First build: 383, LE2 heads, cam intake, 4:10 gears, tons of suspension parts.

Second: Spun a bearing or two in the 383, went to a 385, windowed that motor at 7200. Rod spun around, broke the camshaft in half and shot it out the front of the motor.

Third build: Factory LT1, low mileage and decided it needed a TH350.

Fourth: Back to 6 speed, rebuilt the 6 speed with all the good parts myself, it was a fun learning experience.

Fifth and final, LE, HCI on factor shortblock(4bolt) car ran great. Consistent upper 11's...

Sold it for pennies and tried to buy it back the week before my 15 1LE only to find it had left the highway at 70mph and was a beercan.

Such is life. I would love to have that car back for a full blown drag car build.


The videos are great! The have some pretty awesome stuff to sync up with these days. Track attack and what not. I think all that would be fun, but I wouldn't like stuff hanging all over the place.


Any winter time plans for this bad boy of yours?

Sounded like a nice setup, for sure. Too bad it didn't live to see more fun.

I might upgrade to an MGW shifter, maybe a clutch too.

How about you?

[RyangAsh]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Sounded like a nice setup, for sure. Too bad it didn't live to see more fun.

I might upgrade to an MGW shifter, maybe a clutch too.

How about you?

The ZL1 has a mgw shifter and a RPS twin disc, billet carbon clutch. If I did it over, I would probably pick the mgw that utilizes the stock shift knob because it has good weight to it, especially for a road course car or any for that matter.

The twin disc is awesome! I love the shifter as well.

[cdb95z28]

Originally Posted by RyangAsh

The ZL1 has a mgw shifter and a RPS twin disc, billet carbon clutch. If I did it over, I would probably pick the mgw that utilizes the stock shift knob because it has good weight to it, especially for a road course car or any for that matter.

The twin disc is awesome! I love the shifter as well.

I was leaning towards the MGW with my OE knob, I like the microfiber. If I do a clutch, I would like to go lighter, but not too light that the drivability is not compromised.

[RyangAsh]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

I was leaning towards the MGW with my OE knob, I like the microfiber. If I do a clutch, I would like to go lighter, but not too light that the drivability is not compromised.

The billet flywheel with my RPS is lighter, unsure how much lighter than stock. Biggest notice for me is low rpm noise, but I am far past caring about that. The entire clutch assembly with billet steel flywheel is 32lbs, unsure what stock is..

[PapaKlutch]

Chad, I deinitely recommend the MGW. It's a nice upgrade over the stock short throw shifter. I wanted to keep the factory knob, too, so I bought the version called: MGW Short Throw Shifter Assembly for OEM Use.

The McLeod RXT clutch has been good to me. Mantic would be my next choice, but it's quite a bit more $$. The McLeod has lighter than stock pedal feel and a lightened steel flywheel that comes in a bit lighter than our factory unit. The McLeod steel flywheel is 24.2 lbs (I recall that factory unit is about 1.5 pounds heavier) and the entire McLeod assembly is about 50 lbs.

[RyangAsh]

Originally Posted by PapaKlutch

Chad, I deinitely recommend the MGW. It's a nice upgrade over the stock short throw shifter. I wanted to keep the factory knob, too, so I bought the version called: MGW Short Throw Shifter Assembly for OEM Use.

The McLeod RXT clutch has been good to me. Mantic would be my next choice, but it's quite a bit more $$. The McLeod has lighter than stock pedal feel and a lightened steel flywheel that comes in a bit lighter than our factory unit. The McLeod steel flywheel is 24.2 lbs (I recall that factory unit is about 1.5 pounds heavier) and the entire McLeod assembly is about 50 lbs.

To add, it's also about half the price of a RPS carbon, But total weight is wayy lighter and for road racing I would say that is a huge plus.

[demonspeed]

I stumbled into this build thread wanting to learn more about your clutch reservoir bracket, yet I learned more about what a small world it is. I'm seeing your pictures thinking I swear I've seen this car before. Then I got to your TNiA posts and it dawned on me - I was also at TNiA at Pitt Race on 9/2.

It was my first time on a real track; I've previously only autocrossed... just a total of six times over the last 15 years (I'm a drag racer at heart), so I'm new to this handling and stopping thing. Unfortunately, I boiled my fluid midway through my second session. I wanted a full experience, so I got it between the rain and brake pedal to the floor going into turn 12

Will you be at TNiA on the 30th? I'll be there with new brakes that Sam Strano got me set up with - and hopefully a dry track.

I really enjoyed reading your build thread as it's very detailed - not just with what parts, part numbers, etc. - but also your theory and logic with how/why you're approaching stuff. I won't hijack your thread about my entire setup, but I'd be more than happy to let you beat on my car if you're at Pitt Race on 9/30 - you can try a real shifter (MGW; OE ZL1 shifter sucks) and how it feels with a twin disc (I've got a Monster LT1S) and a big cam (BTR stage 4)

Lastly... any way I could convince you to make a reservoir bracket for me?

[olblue75]

I’d be in for a bracket as well for the larger reservoir. I currently have the GTO reservoir and been thinking about going to the larger Wilwood one. Also diggin the way you cut the crash bar to accommodate the oil cooler but is there any issues with it blocking the radiator? The reason I ask is I’m thinking of a bigger engine oil cooler and a trans cooler for a manual underneath it. So I. Running a set of Stainless Works headers with a Z28 dual mode exhaust but I chopped the the H pipe In favor of a X Pipe that I scored from a C7 Corvette sounds amazing. Also I’m running the Improved Racing thermostatic adapter at the factory oil cooler spot an didn’t have any fit ent issues. So I wonder if it’s a header design thing. I have done a lot of the same mods you have done to my 2010 SS; 1LE front Bar, JPSS 32mm bar, with 1LE struts and shocks pretty happy except for the banging strut issue going to the Bilstein B6’s next. I’ve been pretty lucky with scoring some Z28 parts like the Z28 Diff and brake duct kit, look into Pat’s. Build in the Z28 section he has some brake ducts that attach to the Z kit so you can attach a hose to and run to a Quantum kit if your luck enough to have one. An glad to see you used the DBA rotors on the front since that is a project I’m planning as well and also scored a set of Z28 rear hats that I’m going to try an use the DBA rotors on the rear as well.

[cdb95z28]

Whew! lots to cover fellas!!

Originally Posted by RyangAsh

The billet flywheel with my RPS is lighter, unsure how much lighter than stock. Biggest notice for me is low rpm noise, but I am far past caring about that. The entire clutch assembly with billet steel flywheel is 32lbs, unsure what stock is..

I had an aluminum FW on my '95, I really liked how it rev'd but the low RPM drivability was a little bit worse. I'll have to look at actual weights and go from there, just don't want to go too much.

Originally Posted by PapaKlutch

Chad, I deinitely recommend the MGW. It's a nice upgrade over the stock short throw shifter. I wanted to keep the factory knob, too, so I bought the version called: MGW Short Throw Shifter Assembly for OEM Use.


The McLeod RXT clutch has been good to me. Mantic would be my next choice, but it's quite a bit more $$. The McLeod has lighter than stock pedal feel and a lightened steel flywheel that comes in a bit lighter than our factory unit. The McLeod steel flywheel is 24.2 lbs (I recall that factory unit is about 1.5 pounds heavier) and the entire McLeod assembly is about 50 lbs.

Perfect, that MGW will be the one for me, Thank you!
Again on my '95, with the aluminum FW, I used a McLeod single disc, so they are definitely on my radar, and it's an organic disc too, No need for anything fancy with my power output.

Originally Posted by demonspeed

I stumbled into this build thread wanting to learn more about your clutch reservoir bracket, yet I learned more about what a small world it is. I'm seeing your pictures thinking I swear I've seen this car before. Then I got to your TNiA posts and it dawned on me - I was also at TNiA at Pitt Race on 9/2.

It was my first time on a real track; I've previously only autocrossed... just a total of six times over the last 15 years (I'm a drag racer at heart), so I'm new to this handling and stopping thing. Unfortunately, I boiled my fluid midway through my second session. I wanted a full experience, so I got it between the rain and brake pedal to the floor going into turn 12



Will you be at TNiA on the 30th? I'll be there with new brakes that Sam Strano got me set up with - and hopefully a dry track.

I really enjoyed reading your build thread as it's very detailed - not just with what parts, part numbers, etc. - but also your theory and logic with how/why you're approaching stuff. I won't hijack your thread about my entire setup, but I'd be more than happy to let you beat on my car if you're at Pitt Race on 9/30 - you can try a real shifter (MGW; OE ZL1 shifter sucks) and how it feels with a twin disc (I've got a Monster LT1S) and a big cam (BTR stage 4)

Lastly... any way I could convince you to make a reservoir bracket for me?

Yes, Pitt Race! I saw your car over by Sam's Corvette. I wanted to get over to meet you, just didn't get a chance. And yes, I'm already signed up for the 30th. We'll chat then. Great pic of yours, is it lowered? What suspension stuff do you have? Sure looks like it. What fluid did you use? How about the new brake setup? Better to have an issue in turn 12 than 17!

A couple of things on the clutch reservoir bracket,
"Maybe"
I'm not sure I have any more material for anymore, things are very busy right now but I would like to help you out, so maybe within a few months? Wintertime?
I can always give out the template if you have the means to make one yourself. We'll talk more at the track.

Originally Posted by olblue75

I’d be in for a bracket as well for the larger reservoir. I currently have the GTO reservoir and been thinking about going to the larger Wilwood one. Also diggin the way you cut the crash bar to accommodate the oil cooler but is there any issues with it blocking the radiator? The reason I ask is I’m thinking of a bigger engine oil cooler and a trans cooler for a manual underneath it. So I. Running a set of Stainless Works headers with a Z28 dual mode exhaust but I chopped the the H pipe In favor of a X Pipe that I scored from a C7 Corvette sounds amazing. Also I’m running the Improved Racing thermostatic adapter at the factory oil cooler spot an didn’t have any fit ent issues. So I wonder if it’s a header design thing. I have done a lot of the same mods you have done to my 2010 SS; 1LE front Bar, JPSS 32mm bar, with 1LE struts and shocks pretty happy except for the banging strut issue going to the Bilstein B6’s next. I’ve been pretty lucky with scoring some Z28 parts like the Z28 Diff and brake duct kit, look into Pat’s. Build in the Z28 section he has some brake ducts that attach to the Z kit so you can attach a hose to and run to a Quantum kit if your luck enough to have one. An glad to see you used the DBA rotors on the front since that is a project I’m planning as well and also scored a set of Z28 rear hats that I’m going to try an use the DBA rotors on the rear as well.

lol, damn I should make a dozen of those brackets! Same for you as I mentioned above, that bracket took time because I had to hand cut it from a piece of aluminum plate. But I'll keep u in mind. Also, if you are handy with fabrication, the template is on this thread somewhere, you are welcome to make your own.

As for the oil cooler, I was concerned that I would introduce too much heat from the oil cooler into the radiator. This has proven, so far, to be a non issue. Now I would say all good if I had a 95 degree day at the track where the cooling system could be stress tested. But concerning the oil cooler, I think it will do the job in 95* ambients. I am seeing some of the oil temps on the maybe too cool side. I can see my thermostat cylcing early in a run, but it eventually stabilizes. I may go to a higher temp on the thermostat over the winter. I maximized every part of the oil cooler setup. I think I could have been more sloppy in not worrying about max airflow and it would be just fine.

Yeah, the AFE/Pfadt headers do run differently than some of the other headers out there. Nice score on the Z/28 diff! There were a couple for sale for reasonable prices at one time, but when I finally decided I wanted one, the well was dry. Maybe you got one of them, haha. So I did the TrueTrac. I do have the Quantum kit and the Z ducts. I am moving lots of air everywhere!

I am very pleased with the DBA rotors. But they have finally reached the end of their lifespan, the crazing is finally to the point where I am concerned on track. They are, in my opinion, a better rotor than the OE ZL1 rotors.

[cdb95z28]

UPDATED MODS LIST!!

Completed Mods in GREEN

Suspension
-Z/28 Multimatic DSSV Dampers, Detroit Speed Engineering Speed Kit 1 Springs and rear Anti-roll Bar
-OE 1LE Front Anti-roll Bar
-Moreno Camber Plates
-UMI Performance Roto-Joint Trailing Arms
-Detroit Speed Engineering Rear Toe Rods
-Z/28 Rear Knuckles, Part#s 23262765/23262766
-Z/28 Rear Upper Control Arm Bushings, Part #s 23104907/23104906
-Z/28 Front Lower Control Arms, Part#s 23105014/23105015
-JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Inserts
-Z/28 Front Wheel Bearings, ##25954415
-Homemade Front Caster Locks
-Dorman Long Wheel Studs, Part # 610-490, M14-1.5 Serrated, 15.7mm Knurl, 69.75mm Length
-Aggressive Race/Street Alignment
-Forgeline GA1R Open Lug/Deep/No Cap Wheels in Gloss Black, 19x11 at Front, 19x11.5 at Rear-Race
-Goodyear F1 SuperCar 3R 305/30-19 Tires on all four wheels-Race
-OEM 1LE Wheels with OEM Goodyear F1 SuperCar G:2 for Street, 12mm front spacer/12mm rear spacer for better stance
-AFE/Pfadt Rear Solid Subframe Mounts
-Baer Tracker Bump Steer Kit, Part# 3301018, Drilled and Tapped to 16mm x 1.5mm threads for 2014/15 Electric Power Steering Tie Rod Ends


Powertrain
-Chevrolet Performance Z/28 Cold Air Intake
-AFE/Pfadt Tri-Y Headers with Cats/Jet Hot Ultra Extreme 2500 Coating
-Homemade Skip Shift Eliminator
-RDP Motorsports Tune, 442 RWHP
-Braille B2317R Battery and matching Braille Mount #2318
-Rebuit OE TR6060 by Bowler Transmissions. Viper Vespel Shift Pads, Non-Advanced 3rd & 4th Gear, Carbon Syncros 1-4 Gear, ZR1 Pick Up Tube
-Tilton ST-246 Clutch Kit: Organic Twin Disc, Machined Aluminum Pressure Plate, Slave Assembly, Lightweight Steel Flywheel, Part# 55-1005
-Apex Catch Can
-MGW Short Throw Shifter
-Wilwood 7oz. Remote Clutch Reservoir w/ Homemade Bracket
-Tick Bleeder
-Forza 3-Way Exhaust Controller
-Auto-Blip Rev Match Controller
-Brembo DOT 4 Brake Fluid used at Clutch
-Eaton TrueTrac Differential
-Chevrolet Performance Z/28 Rear Differential Cooler
-NGK ITR6G9 Laser Iridium Plug, #90156

Interior
-Raptor Blue Shift Light
-SRP Aluminum Pedals
-Autometer 2 1/16" Cobalt Digital Oil Temp Gauge #6948/Mounted in Driver Side HVAC Vent/Ebay Gauge Adapter

Exterior
-Window Tint
-Paint Protection
-Chevrolet Performance Heritage Grille
-Z/28 Flowtie
-GrafXWorks Rear Bowtie Overlay
-ZL1 Addons Splitter Guards
-ZL1 Front Fender Air Deflectors with Aero Sport Concepts extensions
-ZL1 Rear Splash Guards
-RPI Designs Front Splash Guards
-ZL1 Belly Pan
-Aero Sport Concepts (L)Wicker Bill @ Rear Spoiler
-Diode Dynamics and Sylvania ZEVO LED Lighting

Brakes
-C7 Corvette ZO6 Non-Carbon Ceramic Front Calipers w/ Vented Pistons, repainted red with G2 Epoxy Caliper Paint. Custom 1LE and Brembo decals
ZL1 Front 2 Piece Rotors
-Goodridge Front & Rear ZL1 Brake Hose Kit
-Chevrolet Performance Z/28 Front Brake Ducts and Quantum Rotor Duct Kit with custom intake at existing fog light trim bezels
-DOT 4 Brembo HTC-64T Brake Fluid
-Raybestos ST43 Racing Brake Pads
-Girodisc Titanium Front Caliper Shims

Cooling
-Straight Water + Driven CSP
-Export Front Bumper Reinforcement
-Chevrolet Performance Z/28 Rear Diff Cooler
-Hood Baffle Removal
-Improved Racing 3 Pass Oil Cooler, #MHX-245, Improved Racing 205* Thermostat, # FSM, Mishimoto M22 Oil Filter Sandwich Adapter, #MMOP-SPM22, Custom mounting brackets, ducting/Removed OE Oil Cooler


Lubrication
-Torco RGO 85W-140Gear Lube
-Driven STF Syncromesh Transmission Fluid
-Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40/WIX WL10290XP Oil Filter
-Gold Plug @ Engine, Trans and Rear

Safety
-Simpson Race Products Hybrid S Head and Neck Restraint
-Schroth Flexi 2x2 6-Point Harness
-Modified OE Recaro Driver's Seat for use with the Schroth Harness Anti-Sub Belts
-Brey-Krause Harness Bar

[cdb95z28]

Track Addict video of my current personal best. Same lap as post #214. Sorry for the shaky video, I need to explore a better mount. Car has a 1:54 in it!

[demonspeed]

Originally Posted by cdb95z28

Yes, Pitt Race! I saw your car over by Sam's Corvette. I wanted to get over to meet you, just didn't get a chance. And yes, I'm already signed up for the 30th. We'll chat then. Great pic of yours, is it lowered? What suspension stuff do you have? Sure looks like it. What fluid did you use? How about the new brake setup? Better to have an issue in turn 12 than 17!

A couple of things on the clutch reservoir bracket,
"Maybe"
I'm not sure I have any more material for anymore, things are very busy right now but I would like to help you out, so maybe within a few months? Wintertime?
I can always give out the template if you have the means to make one yourself. We'll talk more at the track.

Awesome! I'm bringing another guy who has a 5th gen that does a ton of autocross. I understand the event is sold out, so I'm guessing it'll be packed comparatively to this last time especially if the weather holds out.

I don't have a lot for suspension yet: Hotchkis 1" springs (87k miles on OE 1LE shocks/struts...), Hendrix offset diff & solid cradle bushings, and UMI rod-end toe & trailing arms. I'm also on a set of Supercar 3's (305's in the rear) and running the "aggressive street" alignment specs that have floated around the forum forever.

On the 2nd, I was running fluid of unknown date or type along with OE rotors and Wilwood pads (not sure which type). For the 30th I'll have RL600 with separate reservoirs (I've got the GTO one; however, I have the Tilton 6.8oz setup to go on once I get the bracket thing figured out....), Stop Tech lines, Stop Tech high-carbon rotors, and ST43's.

[cdb95z28]

Here's a video of a 1:55.5 and a 1:55.7 run consecutively. The 1:55.7 could have been the 1:54 but the exit of turn 18 killed that. Damn!