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Old 02-15-2019, 02:43 PM   #1
GuyWhoDoesStuff
 
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2013 SS 6M very sluggish

Bought a used SS with 45k miles a month ago. I have done 2 fuse pulls. Run only 93 octane. 2 full tanks before 1st pull. Another 10-15 before 2nd. Left fuses out 14 hours second pull. It's still very sluggish and has trouble starting. I test drove a 2010 SS a few weeks ago and it was much stronger. Can't afford a tune or other mods yet. Just want it to feel normal. I greatly appreciate any help.
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Old 02-15-2019, 02:46 PM   #2
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Do you know anything about the history of the car?

Did you purchase the car from a Chevrolet dealership?

Was the car stock when you bought it?

I'm curious if someone had a tune on it for mods, then removed the mods to sell the car, but it still has a tune. Or if the car had modifications that caused it to run a little too rich and started to ruin the cats.

If you bought it from a chevy dealership, you should ask them if they can reflash the PCM to stock for you.

Are you capable of pulling 1 or 2 plugs (on different sides of the engine) to take a look at them?
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Old 02-15-2019, 05:43 PM   #3
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Check each plug wire connection at the spark plug and coil. Sometimes when I drive mine hard, the engine rocks and will partially disconnect the plug wire from either the plug wire or coil. If it's partially disconnected, my car runs sluggish but doesn't throw any codes/CEL. Each wire will look connected, but one will be slightly backed off. When I push on the plug wire boot, it'll snap into place and all is good.
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Old 02-15-2019, 08:18 PM   #4
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Never had a problem like that with mine. Trouble starting? Battery? Is a check engine light on? Car fax?
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Old 02-15-2019, 09:42 PM   #5
EMB135Driver
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What weight oil is in it?
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:10 PM   #6
silversleeper
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What weight passenger is in it?
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:36 PM   #7
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What weight passenger is in it?
wtf!
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:24 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep View Post
Do you know anything about the history of the car?

Did you purchase the car from a Chevrolet dealership?

Was the car stock when you bought it?

I'm curious if someone had a tune on it for mods, then removed the mods to sell the car, but it still has a tune. Or if the car had modifications that caused it to run a little too rich and started to ruin the cats.

If you bought it from a chevy dealership, you should ask them if they can reflash the PCM to stock for you.

Are you capable of pulling 1 or 2 plugs (on different sides of the engine) to take a look at them?
I was thinking the exact same thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hill_billy View Post
Check each plug wire connection at the spark plug and coil. Sometimes when I drive mine hard, the engine rocks and will partially disconnect the plug wire from either the plug wire or coil. If it's partially disconnected, my car runs sluggish but doesn't throw any codes/CEL. Each wire will look connected, but one will be slightly backed off. When I push on the plug wire boot, it'll snap into place and all is good.
a loose wire or a faulty plug or coil could be the culprit as well.
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Old 02-16-2019, 12:35 AM   #9
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Don't know the car's history, but seems to have been well kept and appears bone stock. Bought from the local Chevy dealer. Not sure of oil weight. Plan on full Royal Purple swap and NGK plug swap at first oil change. An AirRaid CAI and full header/exhaust install are planned at first opportunity. Dyno tune shortly thereafter, funds permitting.
Thank you all for your advice. Checking plugs tomorrow.
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Old 02-16-2019, 08:07 AM   #10
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Pull the maf sensor, check to see if its a "strong" one should have both a letter and number like k24 for example, also probably the original battery, they can also cause havoc.
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Old 02-18-2019, 07:47 PM   #11
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Mine just did this very same thing last week. It was the battery on its way out . Installed new battery checked chsrging which was good and all is well again.
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Old 02-18-2019, 08:24 PM   #12
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With all the electronics/electrical items on our cars, it seems like the average battery needs to be replaced every 4 years or so rather than the 10-15 years of days gone past.

In the old days you could tell the battery was on it's way out when the car started cranking slow. Nowadays the symptoms are all over the map.
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Old 02-19-2019, 06:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GuyWhoDoesStuff View Post
Bought a used SS with 45k miles a month ago. I have done 2 fuse pulls. Run only 93 octane. 2 full tanks before 1st pull. Another 10-15 before 2nd. Left fuses out 14 hours second pull. It's still very sluggish and has trouble starting. I test drove a 2010 SS a few weeks ago and it was much stronger. Can't afford a tune or other mods yet. Just want it to feel normal. I greatly appreciate any help.
So, I'm assuming it wasn't "sluggish" when you bought it right? If you've only had it for a month, why not try taking it back to the dealer you bought it from to see if they can find out what's going on? Most used car places won't care but a Chevy dealer might since they'll want you back to buy a new car next time. Also, why were you still test driving cars a week after you bought one?
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:54 AM   #14
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I wouldn't touch the plugs just yet. Do more diagnostics before throwing parts at it.

Scan it, see if any trouble codes. Bad plug or wire it will have P0300 misfire DTC.

Define your "trouble starting"? Slow cranking or normal cranking?

A no cost check is to pop off the intake tube and peek at the throttle body blade. Make sure it is not gunked up. Pop out the MAF and Air cleaner for inspection. Make sure MAF is not gunked up with fibers burned on the hot wire.

When scanning, what are the fuel trims? Need to know if it's rich/lean/misfiring.... An engine left misfiring too long can fudge up a Cat conv.

Lots to check before buying parts.
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