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Old 10-03-2012, 12:04 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by danielblack60 View Post
I have a monster level 3 clutch and flywheel sitting in my living room. Picked it up pretty cheap for 400 bucks. I know a few people have had bad experiences with them but for 400 dollars I guess it's worth a shot. Should be putting it in this winter sometime.

I've heard lots of good reviews on the zr1 clutch. If I ever have to buy another clutch that's probably what I'll get.

I am one of those who tried the Monster 3, against the advice of the forum. Do yourself a favor and sell the clutch.
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Old 10-03-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
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That seems like it would be pretty hard on things... I got the 3-4k number from the ranger acceleration page...



Which has been fine as long as I've been doing it. Although that is recommended for a Corvette which is a lighter car, so maybe the Camaro needs a higher rpm drop as it's heavier.

I changed the fluid mid season, so probably ~15 passes on it (2 days, including the problem day). I also run a Super DOT 3 (can't remember brand off the top of my head), which is supposed to have a higher boiling point I believe?

Perhaps I will change the fluid again, and upgrade to the Ideal G master cylinder while I'm at it prior to changing a clutch.
Change that fluid before every time you hit the track! Your getting it dirty just driving the car... my advise dont touch the brakes and get those revs up... when your burnout begins keep on the gas and revs at 5-5500 and ride it out without the brakes! This is not going to be hard on the car, what your doing IS... your actually putting more load on things this way! The vette and how he drives is not going to be the same in this car! This car is heavy... the clutch and tires are TRYING to grab beacuse of to low of an RPM... could definetly be your problem and getting the clutch very hot... then causing you to blow threw it later in the day.

My car is a daily driver, over a 100 passes and 100 more horse power then stock, I am getting sub 2 sec 60s on stock tires and no sign of clutch fade! To many times people want to blame the car or part, driving a stick car is an art and can be messed up pretty easy! If this is the second time you gotta start thinking... "hey mabey its not the clutches falt". Not trying to bash on you or anything man, just trying to help.

Its taking me this 100 passes just to get were I am, I still have allot to learn myself! I still think I suck
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:03 PM   #17
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monster sucks from most i have heard..many are running tommy,s strret slayer with a negative comments i have heard, with big hp
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:23 PM   #18
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Street Slayer Carbon Twin Disc. Good street manners and excellent track characteristics. As Mike said, have not seen a bad thing said about that clutch. I run it hard and it just takes a beating and keeps grabbing.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:02 PM   #19
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Street Slayer ALL day long, I had issues with a ZR1 and the Street Slayer is been GREAT.
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Old 10-03-2012, 05:49 PM   #20
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I flush my clutch fluid every oil change. I havent had a problem since Ive been flushing and leaving the line with the clutch just about to grab(not on the floor or near it). But last thursday its been 5k miles since I flushed it(I change my oil every 5k) and when I staged up and came off the clutch a tad too much and the car rolled the prestage beam. I instantly pushed the clutch back in to keep from rolling and the lights came down. I left and the pedal stayed down......
Im tired of it being picky so Im upgrading soon, very soon.
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Old 10-04-2012, 01:22 PM   #21
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I wonder if this "fluid changing" problem would persist (as bad) with an aftermarket clutch... I'm all for maintenance, but I don't want to have to change the fluid every other day to keep the stock clutch operating right under extreme conditions.
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Old 10-04-2012, 02:50 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Turbo99 View Post
Street Slayer ALL day long, I had issues with a ZR1 and the Street Slayer is been GREAT.

This seems to be the best option out there for the SS, I probably should have spent the extra $$$ when I replaced mine way back when, instead of trying to save a few $$$.

Bottom line is if you race and are modified you better have this in the budget along with axles because your going to need it at some point especially on DRs.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:24 PM   #23
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I have to agree with dropping the clutch at 5K in 2nd for the burnout. I've done it probably 60-70 times this year and the stock clutch holds on (and I have a lot more than stock power). My pedal has stayed on the floor a few times but it doesnt seem to be very often. I never changed my fluid before so I'm sure that was a huge problem for me..... I also leave the line at about 3800-4K in 1st.
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Old 10-04-2012, 09:42 PM   #24
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Maybe just bad luck? Go with another GM clutch if it's being offered.

I haven't had any problems. 70k miles.


You changed the transmission to?
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