"Service Stabilitrack" & P0335 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

zlathim · 11-16-2018, 08:31 PM

*****SOLVED***** See post # 20 for details.

Last night I finished a week long wrench fest on my 2010 SS M6. I installed a McCleod clutch, shifter, cradle bushings, toe rods, trailing arms and sub-frame brace along with an extra ground wire from a starter bolt to the chassis.

When I started the car, it fired right up and seemed to run normal for a few minutes. Then when I went for a test drive it was running rough and the service stabilitrack message was displayed on the DIC. The check engine light eventually came on. The tach doesn't move from zero after the initial guage sweep when I start the car.

I pulled a P0335 (Crank Position Sensor Circuit A) code with my scanner so I started researching here. In some old posts, a few people mentioned almost identical symptoms which were cured when they installed a new battery. I've suspected my battery was kinda weak since I got this car a couple of months ago, so I replaced it tonight. No change on the issues.

I've been under the car and I can't see anything wrong with the wires at all. I must admit that im not sure which sensor near the starter is the Cranks Position Sensor. Is it the one in the oil pan or the one directly above the starter?

Anyone have any ideas? I'll probably pick up a sensor from the dealership tomorrow, but I'm afraid that it has something to do with the work I just did. The car ran fine before I started tearing it apart. I've visually inspected all of the wiring, especially on the passenger side back corner of the engine compartment. There is a ground wire on the back of the head that is connected correctly.

Can anyone help me out?

CamaroFred · 11-16-2018, 08:53 PM

New batteries aren't always fully charged. Depends on how long they have been on the shelf.

When you turn on the key and check the voltage (motor not running) what does it read?
Do you have a tender you could connect overnight?

zlathim · 11-16-2018, 09:10 PM

My scanner was showing 12.3 volts key on engine off.

Yes, I have a charger. I'll get it on there.

I did figure out which sensor is the CKP

zlathim · 11-16-2018, 09:12 PM

I've got myself convinced that I or one of my buddies dinged a wire or disconnected something somehow. I just can't see anything from up top or underneath that looks out of place.
I was really only in the vicinity of the CKP when I placed the ground wire and a washer on the starter bolt and retightened it up.

On edit:
You got me thinking about battery voltage though. I cranked the engine (it cranks for a long time before it fires now, used to fire up much quicker) while watching battery voltage. It bounced from about 9.9 to 10.1 volts while cranking. Does that sound like too much of a voltage drop?

CamaroFred · 11-16-2018, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlathim

I've got myself convinved that I or one of my buddies dinged a wire or disconnected something somehow. I just can't see anything from up top or underneath that looks out of place.
I was really only in the vicinity of the CKP when I placed the ground wire and a washer on the starter bolt and retightened it up. I'm half tempted to remove the ground wire I added to see if that makes any difference.

If the CKP is behind the starter (I think it is on the LS3, and the L99 is on the timing chain cover, could be wrong) maybe the wire was pinched with the clutch work.

HOJO · 11-16-2018, 09:45 PM

Cranking my volts seem a bit low. I could be wrong. I don’t think they should drop below 12. Initially the voltage prior to cranking should be around 14-14.2. Again no expert. The started will draw quite a bit on start up though.

zlathim · 11-16-2018, 09:50 PM

I think the battery should be closer to 13 volts fully charged, so I have the charger on 2 amps right now.

zlathim · 11-16-2018, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CamaroFred

If the CKP is behind the starter (I think it is on the LS3, and the L99 is on the timing chain cover, could be wrong) maybe the wire was pinched with the clutch work.

Yes, I found it. Wires look good.

el ess A · 11-17-2018, 10:38 AM

Just throwing this out there...you did clear any codes after battery replacement? I realize taking the battery out should have reset stuff, but that's "should". Throwing spaghetti on the wall here.

zlathim · 11-17-2018, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by el ess A

Just throwing this out there...you did clear any codes after battery replacement? I realize taking the battery out should have reset stuff, but that's "should". Throwing spaghetti on the wall here.

Yes, I've cleared the codes several times during this diagnosis. I charged the new battery for several hours last night to eliminate low voltage as a suspect.

This morning I bought a new CKP sensor and installed it and made sure the codes were cleared. No surprise that it didn't fix the issue. When I start the car, it cranks for a long time, starts up running rough and eventually tripps the P0335 code again.

While I was under the car last night, I noticed a heat taped wire loom that was against a sharp corner on the pass side of the block. I moved it away from the sharp corner (which kinda looked like it might have poked thru the heat tape at least), reset codes and retested. Didn't fix the issue, but I marked the loom where it contacted the block. In order to fully inspect that loom, I'll neeed to remove the passenger side header. I'm debating on doing all of that work until I get some more people to chime in with solid advice on other things to check.

Is there anything in the rear of the car that I might have disturbed that would affect the CKP Sensor? I know it doesn't make any sense, but im grasping here...

camguynj · 11-17-2018, 12:18 PM

Try removing the extra ground wire you added to the starter ( can't hurt) as ground wires actually provide power so maybe the extra power being supplied is affecting the CKP

zlathim · 11-17-2018, 12:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camguynj

Try removing the extra ground wire you added to the starter ( can't hurt) as ground wires actually provide power so maybe the extra power being supplied is affecting the CKP

Thanks for responding. After your post, I did try that and it didn't change anything. Still looking for suggestions.

zlathim · 11-17-2018, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zlathim

While I was under the car last night, I noticed a heat taped wire loom that was against a sharp corner on the pass side of the block. I moved it away from the sharp corner (which kinda looked like it might have poked thru the heat tape at least), reset codes and retested. Didn't fix the issue, but I marked the loom where it contacted the block. In order to fully inspect that loom, I'll neeed to remove the passenger side header.

Quoting myself to avoid retyping. Here is the loom and the sharp edge:

I think I'm about to waste a bunch of time on a wild goose chase, but I don't have any other ideas. On the positive side, I traced the loom and I'm confident that this is the same loom with the CKP wires in it. What do you guys think?

LuSINda · 11-17-2018, 01:14 PM

If you have one use an inspection mirror to inspect the wiring. Heat could have melted the wires together which would cause the problem.

I know you said you did some research but don't know if you saw this page:
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0335

I didn't know a timing belt could cause this...

11-16-2018, 08:31 PM	#1
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	"Service Stabilitrack" & P0335 ***SOLVED*** See post # 20 for details. Last night I finished a week long wrench fest on my 2010 SS M6. I installed a McCleod clutch, shifter, cradle bushings, toe rods, trailing arms and sub-frame brace along with an extra ground wire from a starter bolt to the chassis. When I started the car, it fired right up and seemed to run normal for a few minutes. Then when I went for a test drive it was running rough and the service stabilitrack message was displayed on the DIC. The check engine light eventually came on. The tach doesn't move from zero after the initial guage sweep when I start the car. I pulled a P0335 (Crank Position Sensor Circuit A) code with my scanner so I started researching here. In some old posts, a few people mentioned almost identical symptoms which were cured when they installed a new battery. I've suspected my battery was kinda weak since I got this car a couple of months ago, so I replaced it tonight. No change on the issues. I've been under the car and I can't see anything wrong with the wires at all. I must admit that im not sure which sensor near the starter is the Cranks Position Sensor. Is it the one in the oil pan or the one directly above the starter? Anyone have any ideas? I'll probably pick up a sensor from the dealership tomorrow, but I'm afraid that it has something to do with the work I just did. The car ran fine before I started tearing it apart. I've visually inspected all of the wiring, especially on the passenger side back corner of the engine compartment. There is a ground wire on the back of the head that is connected correctly. Can anyone help me out? __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA Last edited by zlathim; 11-17-2018 at 06:58 PM.

11-16-2018, 08:53 PM	#2
CamaroFred Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016 Location: Chicagoland Posts: 2,999	New batteries aren't always fully charged. Depends on how long they have been on the shelf. When you turn on the key and check the voltage (motor not running) what does it read? Do you have a tender you could connect overnight? __________________ 2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM

11-16-2018, 09:10 PM	#3
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	My scanner was showing 12.3 volts key on engine off. Yes, I have a charger. I'll get it on there. I did figure out which sensor is the CKP __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA Last edited by zlathim; 11-16-2018 at 09:52 PM.

11-16-2018, 09:12 PM	#4
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I've got myself convinced that I or one of my buddies dinged a wire or disconnected something somehow. I just can't see anything from up top or underneath that looks out of place. I was really only in the vicinity of the CKP when I placed the ground wire and a washer on the starter bolt and retightened it up. On edit: You got me thinking about battery voltage though. I cranked the engine (it cranks for a long time before it fires now, used to fire up much quicker) while watching battery voltage. It bounced from about 9.9 to 10.1 volts while cranking. Does that sound like too much of a voltage drop? __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA Last edited by zlathim; 11-16-2018 at 09:30 PM.

11-16-2018, 09:50 PM	#7
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I think the battery should be closer to 13 volts fully charged, so I have the charger on 2 amps right now. __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

11-16-2018, 09:45 PM	#6
HOJO Drives: 2014 Camaro SS/RS 1LE 1967 Camaro Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Fort Wayne, IN Posts: 873	Cranking my volts seem a bit low. I could be wrong. I don’t think they should drop below 12. Initially the voltage prior to cranking should be around 14-14.2. Again no expert. The started will draw quite a bit on start up though.

11-17-2018, 10:38 AM	#9
el ess A Older Than Dirt Drives: 2010 & 2013 Camaros Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Aiken, SC Posts: 4,562	Just throwing this out there...you did clear any codes after battery replacement? I realize taking the battery out should have reset stuff, but that's "should". Throwing spaghetti on the wall here. __________________ 2010 2SS TE, 1 of 822/2013 Camaro ZL1 vert, 1 of 54

11-17-2018, 12:18 PM	#11
camguynj Drives: '13 SS/RS LS3 BRM Cammed NPP Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: NJ Posts: 3,810 View My Garage	Try removing the extra ground wire you added to the starter ( can't hurt) as ground wires actually provide power so maybe the extra power being supplied is affecting the CKP

11-17-2018, 01:14 PM	#14
LuSINda Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2015 Location: Washington Posts: 94 View My Garage	If you have one use an inspection mirror to inspect the wiring. Heat could have melted the wires together which would cause the problem. I know you said you did some research but don't know if you saw this page: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0335 I didn't know a timing belt could cause this... __________________ Lusinda 2010 2SS/RS