I promised I wouldn't ask the question...

[Risingson05]

Don’t forget to replace the cam chain tensioner with a ls2 block chain dampner . That stock spring tensioner is GARBAGE ..

If you have a l99 that means you have heavy valves I believe . My l92 heads had the solid valves . I believe intake was 107grams . Why I opted for quality dual springs stainless steel . Texas speed has it all . Dual springs = better valve control against float .

If your wanting to run high rpm I’d look at getting some hollow stem valves or ls3 valves . They would help you with valve control at high Rpms . Or if your planning on running supercharger then stay with solid or Iconnel.

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Is it the melling high volume or high pressure pump?

I have the high volume in the vert and mud truck pn 10295. Hi volume, hi pressure in the turbo car pn 10296.

I also like the idea of lower lift and less aggressive ramps so you don't have to replace springs so often. My mud truck's 427 has stock blue springs and an ASA cam. Still sounds pretty aggressive and has more bottom end than the other two motors.

[Avenging Orange]

Originally Posted by 1JEWLDSSRS

They put the high pressure spring in it, not sure what color it is, but the instructions should tell you. At idle I'm sitting at 35psi, and cruising at around 1800-2000 I'm sitting at 55psi, cold startups it sits at 68psi and as it warms up to temp it will drop down to around 55-60ish..

Thats pretty close to what my stock pump runs. Thank you sir

[InFiD3ViL]

I have the Melling 10296 and run similar pressures to 1JEWLDSSRS. Warm idle I am at 42-43lbs, WOT is around 65-67. Cruising around town I am usually 55-60.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Thats pretty close to what my stock pump runs. Thank you sir

Most welcome...

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by InFiD3ViL

I have the Melling 10296 and run similar pressures to 1JEWLDSSRS. Warm idle I am at 42-43lbs, WOT is around 65-67. Cruising around town I am usually 55-60.

Awesome bro...

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Also just a thought with all this spring talk, pump and cam and everything else for a good cam swap, I didn't see any mention about doing a trunnion upgrade, now would be the time to do it while the rockers are off the engine, would be great insurance to prevent and stock trunnion failure, and it would not be hard to do either. Just a thought. CHE or Smith Brothers..

[Avenging Orange]

Think I got a bit confused ref dual valve springs. I'm accustomed to associate them to those with .600+ lift where I can see the need to possibly replace them after so many miles. Mine being a low lift, not very aggressive cam, I can see your points on duals. It definitely won't hurt. On the same token, I have had nothing but great success with quality beehives with a small/mild cam.
So, I'm convinced on replacing oil pump. And yes, ls2 chain tensioner is a given. Actually, Lingenfelter sells a kit with 3 bolt cam gear and tensioner.
The LS engines have changed slightly over the years, but still basically the same. Had many cammed LS powered vehicles and never had the need to replace oil pumps or valvetrain components. But, in the past, there wasn't documented oil pump issues. There really isn't that many in the ls3....but for few extra bucks more....
No matter how smart we think we are or how many successful self installs we have done, it's always smart and helpful to have others to bounce ideas. So, I thank you all for your input.

[JLGO]

10295 is a high pressure and stock volume, the one you want is the M365 the same as GMs L99. The solid steel are better than the weaker hollow stem valves of the LS3s and with the dual springs the couple of grams of the solid steel valve does not even matter. LSAs and LS9s have solid valves, so do not worry about it. The heads are good enough for over 600hp, any more head you may need more rpm to make, a mild port of the stock head will make them more efficient. Keep the stock rockers, a trunion upgrade is a most, change the chain tensioner to a dog bone (LS2) and cam phaser, (I purchased the whole cam swap kit from TSP. Check the spring pressure every 20k, keep the VVT and do not let others change your mind.

[Avenging Orange]

To clarify, I have an ls3

[Avenging Orange]

Ok, my cam, melling 10295, 3bolt cam gear, ls2 tensioner, dual springs and possible trunion upgrade, hardened pushrods and timing cover gasket for a 36k car. I can do that.

[1JEWLDSSRS]

Originally Posted by Avenging Orange

Ok, my cam, melling 10295, 3bolt cam gear, ls2 tensioner, dual springs and possible trunion upgrade, hardened pushrods and timing cover gasket for a 36k car. I can do that.

Good luck my friend!! It's gonna be a neat and fun build for sure, and you will most definently enjoy the new performance. Good luck with it...

[WHAMMO]

If you dont need doubles, dont put doubles. It puts unnecessary weight on the valvetrain. Go with PSI they're bulletproof.

[G8One2]

Originally Posted by WHAMMO

If you dont need doubles, dont put doubles. It puts unnecessary weight on the valvetrain. Go with PSI they're bulletproof.

I second this sentiment. Beehive springs are almost always better. Don't get caught up in the "well if one spring fails" safety BS. If your valvetrain is setup properly, you shouldn't be breaking springs. Dual springs are always adding more mass and weight to the valvetrain exacerbating the issue of valvetrain stability. If you're not pushing over .660 lift and heavy valves, a dual spring is not necessary. Unless of course you get that warm a fuzzy feeling using duals, its your build do what you want. Most people over spring their engines because it makes them feel good or they're listening to internet gospel and salesman's. More spring is not necessarily a bad thing, but it eats HP to turn the valvetrain with higher spring pressures and a heavier valvetrain. The lightest combination of valvetrain components will yield the best results in power an valvetrain stability.