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Old 09-24-2018, 11:50 PM   #1
newz
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: ohio
Posts: 62
Sticky clutch pedal.

Evening all. A few weeks ago I put the transmission in reverse and the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was ale to put my toe under the pedal and raised the pedal up to the normal position. I had to pump the clutch pedal 2 times and then the clutch pedal stayed at the correct height and has worked correctly since then. I searched the forums and have seen a lot of info but none seems to be for the ZL1. Any one have this problem? If I need a new slave cylinder what is a good brand? If I need a pressure plate what is a step up from the stock ZL1
clutch. I do track the car about 12 days a year (road course) and want reliability. Also I never have drag raced the car or even dumped the clutch on the street. Track day tires are just to expensive to burn up making the tires smoke:-)
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Old 09-25-2018, 09:11 AM   #2
frankwjr

 
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Try this first...http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html I also did a 4 corner brake bleed since I switched to Dot 4. Has made a world of difference for me and many others on this forum that I recommended it to. And it is a much cheaper initial option that "could" resolve your issues. Good luck!


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Old 09-25-2018, 12:04 PM   #3
Boother
 
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I have had 2 clutch masters fail in my Zl1 and there is a TSB that replaces the pedal assembly (the master is built into the pedal assembly). The issue is a pressure differential builds in the clutch hydraulic system and causes the pedal to stick or start to not come back to top position.

Out of curiosity, have you replaced the factory brake fluid reservoir cap to prevent fluid from leaking?

Last edited by Boother; 09-25-2018 at 02:11 PM.
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Old 09-25-2018, 12:13 PM   #4
ZMEnow

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz View Post
Evening all. A few weeks ago I put the transmission in reverse and the clutch pedal stuck to the floor. I was ale to put my toe under the pedal and raised the pedal up to the normal position. I had to pump the clutch pedal 2 times and then the clutch pedal stayed at the correct height and has worked correctly since then. I searched the forums and have seen a lot of info but none seems to be for the ZL1. Any one have this problem? If I need a new slave cylinder what is a good brand? If I need a pressure plate what is a step up from the stock ZL1
clutch. I do track the car about 12 days a year (road course) and want reliability. Also I never have drag raced the car or even dumped the clutch on the street. Track day tires are just to expensive to burn up making the tires smoke:-)

Used to happen more often than I would like.. If the slave Cylinder is good than you just need bleeding. The fact that you pumped the pedal and now it's working suggest the Slave is good and not leaking. Its not easy to bleed the Z clutch since you cant easily reach the bleed valve on he slave cylinder.


You can empty the master cylinder with a turkey baster, MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL OR CLUTCH PEDAL..Refill with new brake fluid and close the Master Cylinder and pump the clutch pedal 20 to 30. Reinspected the MC fluid if you see brown slag repeat the process. One of the first things i did when I had my trans out was to was to add a Monster one man speed bleeder cable so as soon as the top section of the pedal gets a little soft I take 2 mins to hit it with the Mityvac and it's tight a s a drum.
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Old 09-25-2018, 11:08 PM   #5
newz
 
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Thanks every one for the answers. frankwjr I have the system completly flushed with SRF at the beginning of track season(May) and again in August by the dealer so they can use Tech 2 to cycle the ABS. Fluid stays pretty clean using this schedule. Boother I did replace the master cylinder cap with the one that has "Use DOT 4 Fluid" on the cap. I have not seen any leakage at the cap. I check the and other fluid fill points after every track session along with the cover on the CAI intake. ZMEnow the car goes in this Thursday to have the slave cylinder flushed and thanks for the tip on the Monster speed bleeder. I have not noticed the clutch feeling soft at the top at all.
Hopefully the flush will take care of the problem. ZMEnow did you replace your clutch with a Monster clutch? If so what throw out bearing/slave cylinder did you go with?
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Old 09-26-2018, 10:58 AM   #6
ZMEnow

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz View Post
Thanks every one for the answers. frankwjr I have the system completly flushed with SRF at the beginning of track season(May) and again in August by the dealer so they can use Tech 2 to cycle the ABS. Fluid stays pretty clean using this schedule. Boother I did replace the master cylinder cap with the one that has "Use DOT 4 Fluid" on the cap. I have not seen any leakage at the cap. I check the and other fluid fill points after every track session along with the cover on the CAI intake. ZMEnow the car goes in this Thursday to have the slave cylinder flushed and thanks for the tip on the Monster speed bleeder. I have not noticed the clutch feeling soft at the top at all.
Hopefully the flush will take care of the problem. ZMEnow did you replace your clutch with a Monster clutch? If so what throw out bearing/slave cylinder did you go with?

I went with the OEM clutch I just gave up the strip and stick to circuit tracks, Flywheel, (throw-out bearing ( although it was in perfect condition as it only had 10K), Slave-clynder although I did put in the Monster Billet in the slave to prevent it from melting and the pedal getting stuck to the floor. And the best piece was the Monster one man bleeder, life saver if you are going to continue to share the clutch and the brakes in the same MC.
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Old 09-26-2018, 09:50 PM   #7
newz
 
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ZMEnow Thanks for the info. I have been looking at the replacement part also.
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Old 09-27-2018, 12:03 PM   #8
Boother
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newz View Post
Boother I did replace the master cylinder cap with the one that has "Use DOT 4 Fluid" on the cap. I have not seen any leakage at the cap.
Make sure the replacement cap seal has the breather slit in the middle of it. It is required to help prevent the pressure differential build up.
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Old 09-27-2018, 05:39 PM   #9
newz
 
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Boother thanks for the cap info. Will check it this evening. Boother I just checked the cap and did not see a slit in the deal. Will check the stock ZL1 seal when I find it.

Last edited by newz; 09-27-2018 at 07:13 PM. Reason: Update answer.
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Old Yesterday, 01:35 PM   #10
Dogmeat
 
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I JUST finished up installing the remote clutch reservoir, and completely changed out the brake fluid AND the clutch fluid (I used Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 fluid) from the separate reservoir...ALL of the "old" brake fluid was BLACK, BLACK, BLACK.....and had some small "deposits" in the fluid, as well as some actually sticking to the surface just under the cap of the original brake/clutch. This car is a 2011, with only 32k miles....I was surprised the fluid was THAT yucky! I flushed everything til it was obviously the NEW fluid everywhere....anxious to drive it & see if the brakes and clutch act any differently!

I've only had this car since late July this year, and I'm SO glad I read about all this on this site....I'm sure I caught a possible failure Before it happened. THANKS to all on here that posted about this "cheap way GM took"...and the better solution!!
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Old Yesterday, 08:23 PM   #11
newz
 
Drives: 2013 ZL1
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Evening all. Just an update on the sticky clutch pedal. Had the clutch slave cylinder bled
seems to have been a good move. Went to last track day on the 8th of October and no problems at all. Will watch out for the pedal sinking also. Again thanks to everyone for their input.
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