Car Unstable Under Full Throttle - Page 9 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

maddoggyusa · 05-22-2017, 03:36 PM

get that pool open!!!

spadz93 · 05-22-2017, 04:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

If I were you, I'd hope it's a tie rod. Super cheap and easy to change out. I did mine last week.

Could you PM me a few pointers for install just in case? Steering and suspension are two areas I usually don't mess with too much. Although I'm far from uneducated with a wrench, any help is welcome

StlRomAniaN · 05-22-2017, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by maddoggyusa

get that pool open!!!

Tomorrow. Lol.

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StlRomAniaN · 05-22-2017, 05:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by spadz93

Could you PM me a few pointers for install just in case? Steering and suspension are two areas I usually don't mess with too much. Although I'm far from uneducated with a wrench, any help is welcome

https://youtu.be/jPmoTNwQrAk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

christianchevell · 05-22-2017, 06:29 PM

You have aftermarket coil overs and sways to stiffen it up and stop roll so much but did you upgrade the weak end links? You have stock suspension and the rubber bushing being able to deflect will over time wear and do of course move a lot more than poly bushing but your problem is in the front right you feel. There are excellent products out their like BMR trailing arms, toes and the upper a arm delrin bushing which can help keep a hard accelerating Camaro from wheel hopping like stock......and help deflection cornering also. I recommend also a upgrade to the rear diff cover to people; the LPW product line does I am sure beef up the aluminum pumpkin we have.

If you used stock Pirellis tires which are side specific to swap fronts its not the best for judging handling problems.... I would recommend better end links if you do not have them already and maybe switching out sides on the front coil overs as one may be lamer, and of course getting it up on a rack at a good tire store that does suspension and shaking the hell out of it..... Frankly I have trouble keeping it between the lines and don't just go full throttle ever unless its a race as its hard on the suspension and my torque of course pulls the right rear out as a RWD car will and counter steering and getting out of it are just part of normal driving if I accidentally take off too fast or loose traction shifting etc....

I always drive with traction control and stabillitrac on as it helps when you have so much torque and torque management disabled in the tune from its power robbing.

That's what I have to deal with built anyway, launch too high and burnout, hit gears too hard with more revs on the next gear..burnout, downshift too low causing revs to spike..burnout or worse, simply driving it I notice if I just do normal driving taking off it even kicks just around 1500 rpm and up the right rear loose the higher the revs the more likely and its stall is about 1400-1500 so torque matters a lot down low now that I am stroked compared to a stock build engine size even in comparison its a tire shredder ; if I want unintentionally where as just stock built size it took effort and did not have the low end grunt as much .....Anyway that's my predicament , normal right rear dip from torque then counter it and its straight as a arrow unless I hit revs /gear hard and much more than a chirp...... more like a 55mph rolling burnout..
'
Anyway that's some ideas to continue beefing up the suspension but the rear is usually the problem people look too for WOT problems, WOT to me means burning rubber staying out of wheel hop and counter steering to the right rear dip from the engine torque with help from the trailing arms and toes and not just going nuts but being a gentle shifter, and waiting until some day I will get some good roll resistance better with sways and end links, ( a good sway with poor stock end links = might as well be stock sways), But not to hate on the twisty turnie guys.... roll resistance and lowering the car should come after replacing the stock stamped steel POS paper weight trailing arms and toes to avoid wheel hop and deflection that can break a axle with wheel hop.......IMO

Anyway that's my rant for the day...LOL And if you did a brake change and lost the roller skates you may be making noise from that also .....if you have some noise...

keepin it real and between the lines and making sure its warmed up fine before flogging it ;and never missing a shift with my MGW PHAT Arse sheeeeet.....

1Coopgt · 05-22-2017, 06:43 PM

Well the rotor is the easy one to check out of you list of 4. You can check for runout/warpage yourself. A rebuild kit for the caliper hopefully shouldn't be to expensive . If it's the coilover that will suck.

StlRomAniaN · 05-22-2017, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1Coopgt

Well the rotor is the easy one to check out of you list of 4. You can check for runout/warpage yourself. A rebuild kit for the caliper hopefully shouldn't be to expensive . If it's the coilover that will suck.

I'm going to have to YouTube this so that I can check it asap.

I've been wanting to do a CTS-V caliper upgrade anyways so it'd be perfect timing. I'm due for a brake fluid change as well so it all works out perfectly. Quite a bit of cash to drop, but it is what it is.

Do you have any recommendations/advice for testing the rotors before I google it, etc.? I hope it's not the coilover either. I would have to take them off to test it, no?

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spadz93 · 05-22-2017, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

https://youtu.be/jPmoTNwQrAk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome, thanks!

StlRomAniaN · 05-26-2017, 07:24 AM

Guys,

I checked lateral runout on my rotors and they're within tolerance. 0.002" vs 0.003".

I tested the car on the way to work this morning. Got up to speed to initiate the vibration, put it into neutral and the vibration persisted. That basically eliminates it being drivetrain related (driveshaft mid-bearing, u-joint, etc.).

On another note, I have two new rear tires coming in midweek next week because I'm way overdue for them. I'll get those mounted and I'll balance all four of my wheels/tires. I'm hoping the balancing fixes the issue even though the vibration didn't follow the wheel when I swapped my front wheels/tires.

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PROZ11 · 05-26-2017, 10:46 AM

Putting the car in neutral doesn't necessarily eliminate the drive train since everything for the trans tail shaft back is still rotation (including the driveshaft, the mid-bearing, the u-joints, and axles/c/v joints) and can still be causing a vibration.

StlRomAniaN · 05-26-2017, 05:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by PROZ11

Putting the car in neutral doesn't necessarily eliminate the drive train since everything for the trans tail shaft back is still rotation (including the driveshaft, the mid-bearing, the u-joints, and axles/c/v joints) and can still be causing a vibration.

Good point, sir. This is why I like discussing Rhea things. I learn something new.

Can a driveshaft, u-joint, bearing issue cause a vibration in the front right corner? That's why I'm mainly doubting it. I would expect to feel it in my seat more.

Here's another observation I made today. While sitting in a spot with the engine on, turning to the right/left, I can hear a pop of some sort (steering rack/tie rod) once the wheel gets to about 75° around.

What could be bad on the steering rack/tie rod? I mentioned in an earlier post that there's some play on the rack (shaft) coming out of the steering rack where it connects to the inner tie rod. The steering rack itself doesn't move, but the rack/connecting point does/has play. Ideas? Is it normal

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Antbox530 · 05-26-2017, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StlRomAniaN

Good point, sir. This is why I like discussing Rhea things. I learn something new.

Can a driveshaft, u-joint, bearing issue cause a vibration in the front right corner? That's why I'm mainly doubting it. I would expect to feel it in my seat more.

Here's another observation I made today. While sitting in a spot with the engine on, turning to the right/left, I can hear a pop of some sort (steering rack/tie rod) once the wheel gets to about 75° around.

What could be bad on the steering rack/tie rod? I mentioned in an earlier post that there's some play on the rack (shaft) coming out of the steering rack where it connects to the inner tie rod. The steering rack itself doesn't move, but the rack/connecting point does/has play. Ideas? Is it normal

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That's usually from coil bind on your coilovers. On my previous platforms, regreasing or replacing the top hats fixed that problem.

Does it act like this?
https://youtu.be/u6CkPw-8uMg

Antbox530 · 05-26-2017, 05:18 PM

Looks like the pedders coilovers reuse the stock top hats too. Being a 2010, I'd replace the top hats. I'm willing to bet pedders would point you in the same direction if you ask them.

You can either just replace with stock, or go aftermarket.

Stocks won't perform as well because they deflect more, and will transfer less noise to the car and will last longer, but they don't have any camber or caster adjustment.

Aftermarket camber/caster plates will make it handle better, but it will be louder and they don't last all that long usually because they use pillowball mounts.

StlRomAniaN · 05-28-2017, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Antbox530

That's usually from coil bind on your coilovers. On my previous platforms, regreasing or replacing the top hats fixed that problem.

Does it act like this?

https://youtu.be/u6CkPw-8uMg

That's so interesting. Here's why: some random times at slow speeds (1-5 mph) I've heard the right spring "pop". It goes boinnnnng.

I'll take a video when I'm back home on Tuesday.

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05-22-2017, 06:29 PM	#117
christianchevell old school chevy rodder Drives: 2013 2SS/RS Manual,DM exhaust,CRT Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Oregon Posts: 5,587 View My Garage	You have aftermarket coil overs and sways to stiffen it up and stop roll so much but did you upgrade the weak end links? You have stock suspension and the rubber bushing being able to deflect will over time wear and do of course move a lot more than poly bushing but your problem is in the front right you feel. There are excellent products out their like BMR trailing arms, toes and the upper a arm delrin bushing which can help keep a hard accelerating Camaro from wheel hopping like stock......and help deflection cornering also. I recommend also a upgrade to the rear diff cover to people; the LPW product line does I am sure beef up the aluminum pumpkin we have. If you used stock Pirellis tires which are side specific to swap fronts its not the best for judging handling problems.... I would recommend better end links if you do not have them already and maybe switching out sides on the front coil overs as one may be lamer, and of course getting it up on a rack at a good tire store that does suspension and shaking the hell out of it..... Frankly I have trouble keeping it between the lines and don't just go full throttle ever unless its a race as its hard on the suspension and my torque of course pulls the right rear out as a RWD car will and counter steering and getting out of it are just part of normal driving if I accidentally take off too fast or loose traction shifting etc.... I always drive with traction control and stabillitrac on as it helps when you have so much torque and torque management disabled in the tune from its power robbing. That's what I have to deal with built anyway, launch too high and burnout, hit gears too hard with more revs on the next gear..burnout, downshift too low causing revs to spike..burnout or worse, simply driving it I notice if I just do normal driving taking off it even kicks just around 1500 rpm and up the right rear loose the higher the revs the more likely and its stall is about 1400-1500 so torque matters a lot down low now that I am stroked compared to a stock build engine size even in comparison its a tire shredder ; if I want unintentionally where as just stock built size it took effort and did not have the low end grunt as much .....Anyway that's my predicament , normal right rear dip from torque then counter it and its straight as a arrow unless I hit revs /gear hard and much more than a chirp...... more like a 55mph rolling burnout.. ' Anyway that's some ideas to continue beefing up the suspension but the rear is usually the problem people look too for WOT problems, WOT to me means burning rubber staying out of wheel hop and counter steering to the right rear dip from the engine torque with help from the trailing arms and toes and not just going nuts but being a gentle shifter, and waiting until some day I will get some good roll resistance better with sways and end links, ( a good sway with poor stock end links = might as well be stock sways), But not to hate on the twisty turnie guys.... roll resistance and lowering the car should come after replacing the stock stamped steel POS paper weight trailing arms and toes to avoid wheel hop and deflection that can break a axle with wheel hop.......IMO Anyway that's my rant for the day...LOL And if you did a brake change and lost the roller skates you may be making noise from that also .....if you have some noise... keepin it real and between the lines and making sure its warmed up fine before flogging it ;and never missing a shift with my MGW PHAT Arse sheeeeet..... __________________ 2021 Wild Cherry ZL1 A10, Sunroof, Data, Carbon, Nav, RotoFab Dry CAI, Elite x2, Borla ATK, Driveshaft shop Last edited by christianchevell; 05-22-2017 at 06:42 PM.

05-22-2017, 06:43 PM	#118
1Coopgt Drives: All Black 2012 1LS Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Rochester,NY Posts: 2,042 View My Garage	Well the rotor is the easy one to check out of you list of 4. You can check for runout/warpage yourself. A rebuild kit for the caliper hopefully shouldn't be to expensive . If it's the coilover that will suck. __________________ Mods, K&N CAI ,VTC , GM Perf Axleback Exhaust, Elite Eng CC and CSS, GM Strut Tower Brace,Carbon Fiber Anvil Spoiler,ASC T5 Splitter,Gen5diy Foglight kit.

05-26-2017, 07:24 AM	#121
StlRomAniaN Drives: IOM 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: St. Louis Posts: 1,782 View My Garage	Guys, I checked lateral runout on my rotors and they're within tolerance. 0.002" vs 0.003". I tested the car on the way to work this morning. Got up to speed to initiate the vibration, put it into neutral and the vibration persisted. That basically eliminates it being drivetrain related (driveshaft mid-bearing, u-joint, etc.). On another note, I have two new rear tires coming in midweek next week because I'm way overdue for them. I'll get those mounted and I'll balance all four of my wheels/tires. I'm hoping the balancing fixes the issue even though the vibration didn't follow the wheel when I swapped my front wheels/tires. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________

05-26-2017, 10:46 AM	#122
PROZ11 Drives: 2012 RS/2SS, 69 ProStreet Camaro Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: North NJ Posts: 478	Putting the car in neutral doesn't necessarily eliminate the drive train since everything for the trans tail shaft back is still rotation (including the driveshaft, the mid-bearing, the u-joints, and axles/c/v joints) and can still be causing a vibration. __________________

05-22-2017, 03:36 PM	#113
maddoggyusa Drives: 2013 Camaro Dusk 2SS/6 Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,586	get that pool open!!!

05-26-2017, 05:18 PM	#125
Antbox530 Drives: 2013 1LE Join Date: Mar 2017 Location: Colorado Posts: 40	Looks like the pedders coilovers reuse the stock top hats too. Being a 2010, I'd replace the top hats. I'm willing to bet pedders would point you in the same direction if you ask them. You can either just replace with stock, or go aftermarket. Stocks won't perform as well because they deflect more, and will transfer less noise to the car and will last longer, but they don't have any camber or caster adjustment. Aftermarket camber/caster plates will make it handle better, but it will be louder and they don't last all that long usually because they use pillowball mounts.