New Install Help: Clutch and Reservoir

[dma05]

I'm going to be doing the following and wanted to get your opinions on what steps to take in proper order:


1. New Monster Clutch (slave cylinder, pilot bearing, Billet Release Bearing Support)
2. New Monster Speed Bleeder
3. Seperating Brake and Clutch reservoirs (New master cylinder reservoir and new GTO clutch reservoir with brackets)

4. New stainless braided brake lines
5. New Motul RBF 600 brake fluid
6. New Redline D4 ATF transmission fluid
*I have a MityVac pump



Here is my goal:
I want to be able to install everything and get this all done in a proper order rather than doing more steps than needed.


1. Should I flush out all of the brake fluid from the brakes and clutch before dropping the transmission to install the new clutch and slave cylinder? If so, best way of doing this without the Remote Speed Bleeder installed yet?


2. Best way to install a new Master Cylinder Reservoir without making a mess? (I bought a new one as the clutch line comes capped from the factory). Just pump all of it out and take it off? Or...???


Any input or ideas are greatly appreciated. I'm trying to plan this all out before I actually do the install.



Thanks!

[larry_g]

Don't completely drain the system unless you absolutely have to. I hear bleeding the ABS is a real hassle.

Do each component group separately so if there is a problem it's much easier to troubleshoot. Although I did them at different times, I did the brakes first and then the clutch later. I didn't separate the fluid reservoir.

Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[G8One2]

You only have to bleed the ABS if your reservoirs is empty and you push the brake pedal, thus forcing air into it. Avoid doing that. Pull a vacuum on the reservoir, when half filled with fluid, will burp the lines going to the ABS module. This prevents you from forcing air into the module if you hit the pedal with an low or empty reservoir. Then you can proceed topping off the fluid and bleeding the clutch or brakes if you're doing either.

[dma05]

Originally Posted by G8One2

You only have to bleed the ABS if your reservoirs is empty and you push the brake pedal, thus forcing air into it. Avoid doing that. Pull a vacuum on the reservoir, when half filled with fluid, will burp the lines going to the ABS module. This prevents you from forcing air into the module if you hit the pedal with an low or empty reservoir. Then you can proceed topping off the fluid and bleeding the clutch or brakes if you're doing either.

But I need to change out the actual reservoir, so wouldn't I need to empty it completely?


thanks,

[larry_g]

Originally Posted by dma05

But I need to change out the actual reservoir, so wouldn't I need to empty it completely?


thanks,

Use your mity-vac to suck out the reservoir and swap it out as the last step of doing the brakes.

Then install the new reservoir for the clutch before starting that side. This should help keep fluid in the master cylinders so bleeding them is less of an issue.

Installing the remote bleeder for the clutch is a huge help.



Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

[dma05]

Originally Posted by larry_g

Use your mity-vac to suck out the reservoir and swap it out as the last step of doing the brakes.

Then install the new reservoir for the clutch before starting that side. This should help keep fluid in the master cylinders so bleeding them is less of an issue.

Installing the remote bleeder for the clutch is a huge help.



Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

Got it!


Trying to map this out always the fun part hahahaha... I always do a ton of research before installs and sometimes I overthink things. When I did my Cam, timing chain, water pump, oil pump, push rods, trunions, springs etc.... I had notes galour, but it sure helped with installing.



Now I just need to find torque specs for this install... Anyone have torque specs for:


1. Bellhousing
2. Rear Main Seal Housing (I bought a new housing with gasket)
3. Any other torque specs needed?


thanks a ton!