PCV Valve problems

[wsmith]

Thanks a lot, I will order a catch can

[NYstreetguru]

I just got a v6 2012 with 56k miles. I want to check the pcv valve to see if there is build up on it, and drill it out. Should I do BOTH catch can AND the valve mod? I heard that you should deff do both.

[CamaroRyanRS]

My 2012 V6 has 44K miles and I never had a catch can. Would lose maybe half a quart in 3K miles. I just replaced the PCV valve on the passenger side valve cover the other day. Seems to run a bit smoother.

Originally Posted by NYstreetguru

I just got a v6 2012 with 56k miles. I want to check the pcv valve to see if there is build up on it, and drill it out. Should I do BOTH catch can AND the valve mod? I heard that you should deff do both.

[TooCool5]

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=258202

[AlanRubin]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

The only "check" I know of on a PCV is that it "clicks" easily when you shake it up and down. Its just a weighted valve that supposed to pop open when pressure builds beneath it.

The PCV does not have a check ball and spring, they're wide open orifices.

You can pull yours and look for yourself. Watch the videos on how to update
the LLT version. The guy, and I, drill straight through the top, and the bottom
to change the hole sizes to the updated part.

Replacing them is completely unnecessary! They clog up, the LLT and early LFX
because the top hole, and two bottom holes are too small. Drill the top hole to
7/64th and the bottom two holes to 5/64th. GM updated the part with the larger
openings later in 2012.

You can clean them by spraying any cleaner through the holes. You will see, there
is no "valve" inside the valve. No ball, no spring, straight through.

The RH valve cover gasket was also updated to lessen oil flow. The cavity is wide
open. The new valve cover gasket closes the cavity, and has three holes to allow
venting.

[InfernoMan2011]

Just something to check as well if you are find oil in places you don't think it should be..........I've have my 1LT since 2011 and have run an RX catch can for almost all of that time. The last couple times I changed the oil I noticed there wasn't much if any oil to drain from the catch can. I as seeing random oil my RX breather cap and some on the front of the engine, just under the alternator. I pulled my catch can and found it was clogged and full of oil! It's worth checking this as mine had a ton of sludge in the bottom of it.

I followed another thread I found on how to clean the can. With the catch can removed from the car, connnect a small air compressor with one of the red/blue inflator tips inserted into the dirty side of the RX catch can (middle nipple). Ensure the drain valve is fully open (screwed all the way in on the RX cans). Then hold the can over a box or bucket and turn on the compressor. You can use your thumb to cover outer (clean side) nipple on the can and build up the pressure in the can, forcing anything out of the bottom drain. If there is any thicker pasty looking sludge that comes out, use a tiny screw driver or pick to help clear the drain hole.

When I was done unclogging mine I decide to clean it some. I close the drain and spray a bunch of simple green into the can and then filled with a little warm water. Covered all holes and shook it really good. Opened drain and emptied. Rinse & repeat a couple times until the liquid running out of the drain is almost clear. Then leave the drain open on the can and reconnect the air compressor to blow out any remaining liquid inside the can and dry it out a bit. Close drain on catch can and re-install on the car, making sure to reconnect properly (hose from passenger side valve cover to the center/dirty side nipple on the catch can.)

There was a LOT of oil in my can, but it couldn't drain due to the clog. Ever since cleaning my can, no more rogue oil popping up in the engine bay. I had no idea, so it's definitely worth checking to make sure you can isn't clogged as well.

[AlanRubin]

Never had that issue. Mine has a drain valve too and it always empties out.
The brass separater/strainer has clogged up though. When you see oil in the
fresh air side, that's when you know you need to check the PCV side. I get the
thicker stuff in the fresh air side can, that drain has clogged on me, but it's not
as much oil as the catch side.

I am going to replace them with the ones I have in my Mustang. They have
removable baffles that open up to replace the stainless mesh in them. They
also have a dip-stick so I can check the level.

[DRC69]

Well that's just after a few hundred miles.

I wonder where all the oil when before I bought it?? lol

I think I need to do the other-side now.
PS The hand is from an old guy. lol

[AlanRubin]

Doing the clean side is for good measure. When you're at idle, the PCV is pulling
air in from the clean side, that is why it's behind the air filter. That is how it circulates
fresh air through the engine as it pulls vapors. When you get to higher RPMs, and
the pressure is high, then it also goes out the clean side. It's no where near the same
amount of oil as the PCV side. IT will also be like peanut-butter. Just don't panic
when you see it, and think you're getting coolant in the oil...

[DRC69]

Originally Posted by AlanRubin

Doing the clean side is for good measure. When you're at idle, the PCV is pulling
air in from the clean side, that is why it's behind the air filter. That is how it circulates
fresh air through the engine as it pulls vapors. When you get to higher RPMs, and
the pressure is high, then it also goes out the clean side. It's no where near the same
amount of oil as the PCV side. IT will also be like peanut-butter. Just don't panic
when you see it, and think you're getting coolant in the oil...

OK thank you for the info. I will need to order the clean-side this week.
Thx