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Old 05-11-2020, 07:04 PM   #225
Alain


 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 2018 ZL1 A10 View Post
WOW!! That’s an INCREDIBLY GENEROUS offer. A chance to learn from professionals, what could be better? I’ll contact them today to set it up.
Btw, my E2-X was delivered a few days ago. The fit and finish of the Can makes it a piece of automotive artwork. Someone put a lot of love into this.

Will contact shortly,
Chris
Let us know how this works out. Very nice of them to make this offer.
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Old 05-12-2020, 10:17 AM   #226
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Originally Posted by ZX-10R View Post
Do you guys re-use the factory bolts (to the heads?)



Yes, hundreds over the years and never an issue. If it was a head bolt, etc. never.


cheers!!
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Old 11-06-2020, 12:09 PM   #227
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It's all preference really. After doing research I saw how the pudding was accumulating in the top of the blower from other LT4s with fairly low mileage that's why I decided to do it early and also while the o-rings on the blower are still fresh, you definitely don't want any kind of intake leak. It does not through any code. Basically you're just relocating the PCV which the engine can't recognise, and you eliminate like 90% of contaminants in Blow by being vented into the floor of the blower. I've had no problems at all.
Only 680 miles????
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Old 01-26-2022, 05:00 PM   #228
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Originally Posted by mlee View Post
Nope... not that or I would have been able to see it.

Thanks!!! I need to pull the sound baffles out of mine and had no idea to replace the bolts.
Not so sure it's a good idea to remove that plate..... at high boost on the Eforce superchargers the lid would flex & crack.. We had to change to a truck lid that was stronger. The bolt pattern looks more like a brace right above the rotors air outlet to keep flex in control.
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Old 01-26-2022, 05:09 PM   #229
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Originally Posted by Alain View Post
If you need warranty work done, just take the catch can off the car before going to the dealership.

Don’t drill a hole into the stock I take elbow, use the fitting that is already there on the bottom. Get yourself a replacement vacuum hose to replace the one you tap into for the catch can install. Those things are not very expensive.


They’ll never be able to tell you had a catch can on the car.
However the SC will have to be lifted again to remove the Elite PVC & replace the 1 time use bolts. And the gasket/bolt kit currently says "unavailable"! Ugg

I'm right in the middle of a catch can install, but haven't loosened the 10 lower bolts..... considering not installing. More research 1st....
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Old 01-26-2022, 11:12 PM   #230
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Originally Posted by Blue70SS View Post
However the SC will have to be lifted again to remove the Elite PVC & replace the 1 time use bolts. And the gasket/bolt kit currently says "unavailable"! Ugg

I'm right in the middle of a catch can install, but haven't loosened the 10 lower bolts..... considering not installing. More research 1st....
You can get the gasket/bolt kit on ebay. GM 12679527.
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Old 01-27-2022, 05:22 AM   #231
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Originally Posted by Blue70SS View Post
Not so sure it's a good idea to remove that plate..... at high boost on the Eforce superchargers the lid would flex & crack.. We had to change to a truck lid that was stronger. The bolt pattern looks more like a brace right above the rotors air outlet to keep flex in control.
If that were the case, the would have simply made the lid stronger from the factory. I'm running 15psi of boost with the baffle removed, no issues at all.
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Old 01-27-2022, 09:02 AM   #232
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Great Thread Everyone!



EE... Love the participation, and ability to engage in a constructive conversation!
Great shared learning event now knowing its best to replace the bolts!


Question #1 - Should we be coating the threads of the SC bolts before re-torquing?

Question #2 - Any specific torque pattern?



My thought process... with all of the work to remove the SC... who many have then shipped it to KONG for their porting??? Kill two birds with one stone?


Question #3 - Anyone in CA had an issue with smog testing with a catch can?
Question #4 - EE, any luck getting carb compliance?



Thank you all for investing in this thread... lots for us to learn!
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Old 01-27-2022, 10:54 AM   #233
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Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE View Post
Great Thread Everyone!



EE... Love the participation, and ability to engage in a constructive conversation!
Great shared learning event now knowing its best to replace the bolts!


Question #1 - Should we be coating the threads of the SC bolts before re-torquing?

Question #2 - Any specific torque pattern?



My thought process... with all of the work to remove the SC... who many have then shipped it to KONG for their porting??? Kill two birds with one stone?


Question #3 - Anyone in CA had an issue with smog testing with a catch can?
Question #4 - EE, any luck getting carb compliance?



Thank you all for investing in this thread... lots for us to learn!
I’m preparing to remove my SC for shipment to Kong, and I have a new Elite CC ready to install while the SC is off (along with LPE HPFP and +30 injectors). My last part (injectors) arrive on the brown truck tomorrow.
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Old 01-27-2022, 01:04 PM   #234
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SOCAL.M6.ZLE View Post
Great Thread Everyone!



EE... Love the participation, and ability to engage in a constructive conversation!
Great shared learning event now knowing its best to replace the bolts!


Question #1 - Should we be coating the threads of the SC bolts before re-torquing?

Question #2 - Any specific torque pattern?



My thought process... with all of the work to remove the SC... who many have then shipped it to KONG for their porting??? Kill two birds with one stone?


Question #3 - Anyone in CA had an issue with smog testing with a catch can?
Question #4 - EE, any luck getting carb compliance?



Thank you all for investing in this thread... lots for us to learn!

1. Bolts need locktite blue.
2. Yes, this is very important. (google it)



3,4 No idea. California sucks with emissions.
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