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Old 03-26-2014, 10:39 PM   #29
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Thats a nice unit. Thanks for letting me know
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Old 03-26-2014, 11:01 PM   #30
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I installed AeroForce gauges on my stock ZL1 just for the purpose of tracking numbers before I modded.
My IAT1 normally ran ~10deg above ambient and IAT2 was almost double IAT1, in the 120 to 130 range.

I added a Ron Davis heatX and 2.55 upper and 8.6 lower. Now my IAT2 never goes above 100 and is basically cut in half now running ~20deg over IAT1. I actually thought I had messed up my gauge and was looking at ambient for a couple days until I looked closer at the label and saw IAT2.

Next I'm getting a D3 reservoir just for the filling and changing fluid as previously mentioned. It's a PITA without it.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:32 AM   #31
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Ron Davis, Mike? From Andy?
Was the 120-130 after a wot blast or just your normal IAT2 while driving?
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:52 AM   #32
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Hey guys, IAT1 is measured at the air intake track. Where is IAT2 measured, also there looks like a coolant temperature sensor on the left side of the top of the intercooler. Is it possible to measure the intercooler temp?
Thanks guys
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:37 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by white 2SS/RS View Post
Ron Davis, Mike? From Andy?
Was the 120-130 after a wot blast or just your normal IAT2 while driving?
Yes, from Andy at ADM. 120-130 was normal driving no WOT. Now it's between 75 to 100
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:29 PM   #34
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I run a chiller system with no reservoir but I only drag race. Factory air also kicks off at wide open throttle but for 1/4 mile you still have chilled coolant. My iat2s do not exceed 100 degrees and are back down to 10 degrees below the ambient outside temps displayed on the radio.
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:52 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by v8 View Post
Hey guys, IAT1 is measured at the air intake track. Where is IAT2 measured, also there looks like a coolant temperature sensor on the left side of the top of the intercooler. Is it possible to measure the intercooler temp?
Thanks guys
I believe that IAT2 is the temperature of the air after the supercharger and intercooler. It is basically the air going into the engine.

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Yes, from Andy at ADM. 120-130 was normal driving no WOT. Now it's between 75 to 100
Are you saying you were getting IAT2 temps in the 120-130 degF range in normal city/Highway driving with cool ambient temperatures. I just added the IAT2 PID to my Torque app and was curious about what other people were getting for that temperature.
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Old 03-27-2014, 03:07 PM   #36
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I believe that IAT2 is the temperature of the air after the supercharger and intercooler. It is basically the air going into the engine.



Are you saying you were getting IAT2 temps in the 120-130 degF range in normal city/Highway driving with cool ambient temperatures. I just added the IAT2 PID to my Torque app and was curious about what other people were getting for that temperature.
Yes... city driving mostly freeway that's what I got stock. Ambient around 70 deg
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Old 03-27-2014, 05:49 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knowitman View Post
I believe that IAT2 is the temperature of the air after the supercharger and intercooler. It is basically the air going into the engine.

Thanks
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:44 PM   #38
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90% of the people in this thread have no idea how this works....



ok..

by adding a tank in the back of the car (the front tank does not help at all) you can make the car much happier and can actually tune for much more power..

the cars water capacity is fine for standered driving but remember, the air intake temps ( I.A.Ts) will never be below ambient.

the suprchiller things work but i don't like them...

the best way to get the car to be happy. keep the water temps in check and be able to tune for more power (or just keep the power your tuneup gave you to start with and not have the ecu pull timing from your table) is to keep the water temps down.. adding capacity CERTAINLY DOES THIS. it extends the time it takes to heat the water...

you can use as little of a cell you like but 3 gallons is the smallest that truly works.. you can fit a 5 gallon cell in the trunk and if done properly it takes up very little space.. a RV water pump is the cheapest and longest lasting pump i have found... this also keep cost down..the pump is placed in the spare tire well... the hoses are ran to the front of the car and quick disconnects can be used if you want to run the stock setup while driving around town and only use the cell for racing ( i do this on my wifes cts-v).

the added water capacity adds a much longer time the car can run under boost and keep the i.a.ts at the lowest temp.. think about it.. the air traveling through the brick heats the water.. the more water, the longer it takes to raise the temp of the overall reserve.

a stock car with 22000 rpm of blower speed ( pullied but not to the extreme) will have a i.a.t spike of about 60 degrees... this is not good... the car starts pulling timing at 100 degrees.. so add 60 degress to waterever you i.a.t is at the beginning of a run and that's what it will be at the end...

you are trying to do 2 things with this, reduce INITIAL i.a.t temps AND INCREASE THE AMOUNT OF TIME it takes to raise you i.a.ts (AKA THE SPIKE).

now as im not trying to sell parts like most of the vendors i can tell you the actual truth... the superchiller works but it will not lower temps like a properly built ice tank will and it will also get you a lot of dirty looks from people as it drips water all over the track..AND IT ADDS WEIGHT IN THE WRONG PART OF THE CAR.

if you add a 5 gallons cell, run a 20 gph pump and 3/4 inch hose to the blower, then out to the heat exchanger ( you don't want the exchanger to see the water before the blower now as it will actually RAISE the water temps), you can drop the i.a.t to the 50 degree mark and increase your i.a.t temp rise to 40' over the period of the run. now you are staying under the magic temp of 100 degrees no matter what the temp outside is and the car never needs to get involved in you tuneup...

this example given above is for a EXTREMLY overdriven blower, (FAR MORE THAN 99% OF THE GUYS WILL DO) and will only get better for the guy running less blower speed as the temp spike will be less and less the lower the blower speed goes..

if you drive the cars like i do, on a reg basis but not daily, you can leave the tank hooked up and the car will still see a greater safer degree of temp control because as i stated before it takes longer for the air to heat more water...

i have 2 cars setup like this, and with the best parts, lines and aluminum cell, i have less than 500 in the entire setup... i learned how effective this was through a lot of testing and watching my actual logs...

NOW ADDING A larger exchanger will help but it will never get the car below ambient.. it just simply increases the time the cars i.a.t stays down closer to ambient.... i don't even have a aftermarket one in either of my cars. its nice to have but not needed for the guy making passes at the drag stip or the guy doing quick burst down the road... it would help by adding capacity and by pulling more heat out of the air, but again, it will never be below ambient..
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Last edited by The Baron; 03-27-2014 at 06:59 PM.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:50 PM   #39
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ps, without starting a pissing match, i have pushed a stock ci stock blower harder than all but very few people and the brick inside the blower IS NOT THE MAIN PROBLEM as far as keeping heat down.. you can go farther with that brick than the blower will actually allow as far as air flow.... dont always believe the guy trying to sell the parts...i learned this the hard way... and also remember guys PAY to be on here to sell parts, so they can say whatever they want...


as far as more capacity ... jannity is flat wrong... period.
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Old 03-27-2014, 06:54 PM   #40
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Good write up
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:23 PM   #41
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Looks like tech might be getting a new member soon lol
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Old 03-27-2014, 07:45 PM   #42
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Baron, who built your trunk reservoir?
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