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Old 03-30-2015, 06:39 PM   #15
ZO6 Bryan

 
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First off, a catch can is not going to fix any kind of ignition knock. Secondly, a completely stock car shouldn't be knocking at all. Not even with bad gasoline. If the knock sensors and PCM are working like they're supposed to they should pull some timing and you will never hear the knock. So if you're still getting audible knock then you have some really really bad gasoline or your PCM is not doing it's job. I would take it to the dealer to evaluate it before you touch anything. The PCM can easily pull 20° of timing out. So if it is doing that and you still are hearing knock something is very wrong.
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Old 03-30-2015, 06:55 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
First off, a catch can is not going to fix any kind of ignition knock. Secondly, a completely stock car shouldn't be knocking at all. Not even with bad gasoline. If the knock sensors and PCM are working like they're supposed to they should pull some timing and you will never hear the knock. So if you're still getting audible knock then you have some really really bad gasoline or your PCM is not doing it's job. I would take it to the dealer to evaluate it before you touch anything. The PCM can easily pull 20° of timing out. So if it is doing that and you still are hearing knock something is very wrong.
If that were true then we'd never hear people complaining about knocking

I've never had a catch can solve problems for me in the past but I buy into the theory that the oil getting into the combustion chamber can cause knocking. I don't really expect it to fix it, but it's worth a try considering I think it's good to have anyway and should in no way harm my warranty.

Also, typically (I believe) there will be a slight knock or "tat tat tat" which gets detected and then the computer retards the timing and then it goes away. That is exactly whats happening to me, except it comes back again next time I go WOT.

Anyway, I don't believe I have the answer, if I did I'd solve it. I'm just trying to take this one step at a time and not involve the dealer if I can avoid it. Before I go to the dealer, I want to have some tangible evidence of whats going on or else they'll just tell me "its normal".

The engine in my 2011 Mustang GT made a rattling noise at 3000rpm and the dealer said it was normal. Shortly after trading it in, that Mustang's engine blew up (lucky me). So I don't like it when the dealer tells me "it's normal" hahaha
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Old 03-30-2015, 08:29 PM   #17
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I have owned two ZL1's and always run 93 octane fuel. I think it would be very difficult to hear spark knock. Not sure what you are hearing. Maybe something is loose or ratting under the car. You could purchase a data logger and monitor knock regard to try to correlate to when you are hearing this sound. I have a dash mounted data logger that's pretty handy. Data file can b opened and plotted in MS Excel. If it is spark knock, you would likely see it in knock regard.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:04 PM   #18
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Add some Torco.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:06 PM   #19
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I've had detonation issues from bad gas and you will not hear it. You might feel some hesitation when it happens but that's about it. Take it to the dealer.
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:43 PM   #20
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Take it to the dealer. Put the complaint/question on paper for future use if needed
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Old 03-30-2015, 10:44 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angryBits View Post
Ended up buying my own DashLogic.

If I see that it's knocking, then I'll take a look at the AFR and if it's way off then its probably something wrong with the MAF or intake. Otherwise, I'll try the oil catch can. If that doesn't do it -- it's going back to the dealer :(

Excellent choice. You will be able to view timing being pulled when at WOT along with knock and other critical data.
All the best,
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Old 03-31-2015, 12:00 AM   #22
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Abel is the dealer you want to take it to. A bit of a drive from your location to Rio Vista, but they will get you sorted out. Be sure to call in advanced to make an appointment because they do a lot of Corvettes and are busy all the time. I make an 1.5 hour drive there because I trust them, and they do a lot of performance and race car prep. Ask for Rich Wilhoff.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/abel-chevrol...k-co-rio-vista
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Old 03-31-2015, 07:53 PM   #23
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Make sure the dealer has a world class tech. There actually certified to work on our cars.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:08 PM   #24
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I would get a recognized member from here to drive your car. After having your GT500 for so long, you knew every sound and feeling that car had. If something was "out of whack" on another guys new one, you would have picked up on that instantly. Same thing here.

Lets hope it is just something like how your driveshaft had a sticker on it that came loose on your GT500 and was whacking the underside of the car on each rotation.

BTW, I'm right there with you in that the 2013 GT500 is the clear winner -on paper- (lower weight/more power) and I'm still a huge fan of those cars. But the ZL1 with those bad ass mag shocks and superior chassis make it the better drivers car. IMO.
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Old 03-31-2015, 11:58 PM   #25
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I got anxious and decided to take it in today. Exactly what I said would happen, happened...

He said, "That's normal".

In fact, he even said, "These cars knock all the time".

*sigh*

The tech went on a ride along with me and of course the car was much better behaved (I hate it when that happens). However, I was able to reproduce the issue a little and he didn't seem concerned. Though I'm not sure I trust this guy's opinion since he said "these cars knock all the time".

My problem with this is:
1. I drove 2 other ZL1s and neither of them made these noises.
2. I plan to add power mods in the future and want a healthy engine, not something that I don't trust and will live in fear of voiding my warranty.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:02 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nor Cal ZL1 View Post
Abel is the dealer you want to take it to. A bit of a drive from your location to Rio Vista, but they will get you sorted out. Be sure to call in advanced to make an appointment because they do a lot of Corvettes and are busy all the time. I make an 1.5 hour drive there because I trust them, and they do a lot of performance and race car prep. Ask for Rich Wilhoff.

http://www.yelp.com/biz/abel-chevrol...k-co-rio-vista
The yelp reviews are outstanding. Thanks for the referral, I'll definitely check them out. I'd gladly drive 1.5 hours for a great service shop.
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:16 AM   #27
ZO6 Bryan

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angryBits View Post
I got anxious and decided to take it in today. Exactly what I said would happen, happened...

He said, "That's normal".

In fact, he even said, "These cars knock all the time".

*sigh*

The tech went on a ride along with me and of course the car was much better behaved (I hate it when that happens). However, I was able to reproduce the issue a little and he didn't seem concerned. Though I'm not sure I trust this guy's opinion since he said "these cars knock all the time".

My problem with this is:
1. I drove 2 other ZL1s and neither of them made these noises.
2. I plan to add power mods in the future and want a healthy engine, not something that I don't trust and will live in fear of voiding my warranty.
Seriously? Did he at least hook up the Tech2 to watch what was happening during the test drive?

These cars shouldn't knock if you are using premium. Then again the mechanics are probably accustomed to idiot owners that put in 87 octane in their performance cars.
"cough, vette"
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Old 04-01-2015, 12:21 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZO6 Bryan View Post
Seriously? Did he at least hook up the Tech2 to watch what was happening during the test drive?

These cars shouldn't knock if you are using premium. Then again the mechanics are probably accustomed to idiot owners that put in 87 octane in their performance cars.
"cough, vette"
He did hook it up to the computer and he said there were no trouble codes. But I feel like there wouldn't be a code without an dash light, so I'm not surprised.

I'll see what my DashLogic says when it gets here.
I'm willing to bet it will say I'm running rich or lean and it will probably be a MAF sensor issue. *crossing fingers*
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