Upgrade rear suspension time! - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Moeman · 02-19-2020, 07:45 PM

2015 2SS/RS, 85000 Miles. Past time to upgrade.
Been tracking now enough to know I like it and time to make the car handle better.

I have bought BMR parts:
Trailing arms TCA026
Bushing kit BK030, which is the diff kit and the cradle bushings.
Have Lowering springs SP077 1.25 Inches.

I think I need to get Lower Control Arms LCA28.
I need Toe rods, looking at TR003, have to be the adjustable ones, according to the BMR web page.

I was reading that the LCA's do not connect to the STOCK sway bar end links.
Need part number ELK006.

Should I buy those or wait and get a better sway with better end links, before I install the Lower control arms?

GM 3.91 gears arrive tommorow..yeah baby.

also been wondering now that the rear suspension will be done, what is the front going to need??

running 20x10 rims up front and 20x11 rims in the back.
275 up front and 315 in the rear for tires.

Looking for advice, ideas, guidance, help from people have been here and done that.
Thanks for all the help over the years here.

Black_SS10 · 02-19-2020, 08:23 PM

Why do you need LCA or those endlinks? The endlinks you posted are for a 2010-2011, fe3 suspension. You have a 2015, and should have the updated suspension, with if memory serves right, outboard endlinks. Your factory LCA will be fine, same with your endlinks. Next, why do you need adjustable toe rods? The fixed toe arms are fine. You can always get eccentric bolts for the factory LCA and toe arms if you need more adjustability.

KillboyPowerhead · 02-20-2020, 05:55 AM

The first question I'd ask is what are your intentions here? Racing? Street? If this is a street car I'd consider replacing certain parts with factory Z28 parts which will not only be good enough (probably, considering the Z28 is a track-ready beast), but also cheaper too.

At 85k miles your shocks are probably due for a replacement. The factory 1LE shocks would be an upgrade (use same springs as SS), or you could go with coilovers for the adjustability - I chose BC Racing's BR series and they're a significant improvement over the factory (V6) shocks/springs; I'm sure there are better coilovers out there but you'll pay a premium, and for a street car these are adequate.

As mentioned, you have the updated rear lower controls arms, sway bar and end-links in your 2015. As far as the rear goes, if you're driving the car hard, some good and cheap upgrades are the factory toe-links and trailing arms found on the 1LE, ZL1 and Z28, and the inner upper control arm bushing from the Z28. Solid subframe bushings also make a big difference - you'll need to go aftermarket for these.

For the front, other than new struts/coilovers there's not a whole lot to do. You can get an improved insert for the inner radius rod bushing; but if you buy the Z28 ones they come with the whole arm and bushing, not just the insert; not sure how many companies make an improved insert (I have ones by JPSS but it appears he's no longer around). You may also consider camber/caster plates for improved caster and/or steering axis inclination.

All of these upgrades will help keep the rear end planted, reduce dynamic wheel alignments, and better keep the front wheels straight and centered.

olblue75 · 02-20-2020, 09:13 AM

The Z28 upper control arm rear bushing is a huge upgrade but they are kinda spendy if you can find them!! BMR makes one very similar.

Black_SS10 · 02-20-2020, 10:52 AM

Prothane radius arm inserts
Subframe bushings
Your choice of coilovers OR springs/shocks/struts
Z28 UCA bushings
You choice of trailing and toe arms. Factory will work at lower power lvls. Fixed arms are fine unless your really low or need some crazy adjustability. SPC sells eccentric bolts that increase adjustability.
You dont need lower control arms, unless your doing a 15inch wheel conversion.
Grab a zl1 rear sway bar. That will help greatly.
That is more than most people need. You can take it further with solid subframe bushings, poly bushings everywhere OR replacing all the arms. But it is your money.

BMR Sales · 02-20-2020, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Moeman

I have bought BMR parts:
Trailing arms TCA026
Bushing kit BK030, which is the diff kit and the cradle bushings.
Have Lowering springs SP077 1.25 Inches.

I think I need to get Lower Control Arms LCA28.
I need Toe rods, looking at TR003, have to be the adjustable ones, according to the BMR web page.

I was reading that the LCA's do not connect to the STOCK sway bar end links.
Need part number ELK006.

Should I buy those or wait and get a better sway with better end links, before I install the Lower control arms?

With the TCA028 LCA and and a FE4 Rear Bar, you use the Factory Endlinks

02-19-2020, 07:45 PM	#1
Moeman THE Cone Killer Drives: 2015 2SS/RS BVM; 2016 Vette Z51 Join Date: Jun 2013 Location: Myrtle Beach Posts: 114	Upgrade rear suspension time! 2015 2SS/RS, 85000 Miles. Past time to upgrade. Been tracking now enough to know I like it and time to make the car handle better. I have bought BMR parts: Trailing arms TCA026 Bushing kit BK030, which is the diff kit and the cradle bushings. Have Lowering springs SP077 1.25 Inches. I think I need to get Lower Control Arms LCA28. I need Toe rods, looking at TR003, have to be the adjustable ones, according to the BMR web page. I was reading that the LCA's do not connect to the STOCK sway bar end links. Need part number ELK006. Should I buy those or wait and get a better sway with better end links, before I install the Lower control arms? GM 3.91 gears arrive tommorow..yeah baby. also been wondering now that the rear suspension will be done, what is the front going to need?? running 20x10 rims up front and 20x11 rims in the back. 275 up front and 315 in the rear for tires. Looking for advice, ideas, guidance, help from people have been here and done that. Thanks for all the help over the years here. __________________ ARH Full exhaust w/ HF cats CAI Cold Air Intake w/ scoop, Gears 3.73 BMR 1.25 inch lowering springs, Trailing Arms, Toe Links, Cradle and offset Diff Bushings, Bilstein Struts, front and rear ZL1 rear Diffuser, Rocker Panels, 1LE Front Splitter Z28 High Wing Rear Spoiler, Tuned by DynoSteve

02-19-2020, 08:23 PM	#2
Black_SS10 SomeguyK Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: FL Posts: 1,947	Why do you need LCA or those endlinks? The endlinks you posted are for a 2010-2011, fe3 suspension. You have a 2015, and should have the updated suspension, with if memory serves right, outboard endlinks. Your factory LCA will be fine, same with your endlinks. Next, why do you need adjustable toe rods? The fixed toe arms are fine. You can always get eccentric bolts for the factory LCA and toe arms if you need more adjustability. __________________ TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII More to come.

02-20-2020, 05:55 AM	#3
KillboyPowerhead Drives: 2015 Z/22 Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 931	The first question I'd ask is what are your intentions here? Racing? Street? If this is a street car I'd consider replacing certain parts with factory Z28 parts which will not only be good enough (probably, considering the Z28 is a track-ready beast), but also cheaper too. At 85k miles your shocks are probably due for a replacement. The factory 1LE shocks would be an upgrade (use same springs as SS), or you could go with coilovers for the adjustability - I chose BC Racing's BR series and they're a significant improvement over the factory (V6) shocks/springs; I'm sure there are better coilovers out there but you'll pay a premium, and for a street car these are adequate. As mentioned, you have the updated rear lower controls arms, sway bar and end-links in your 2015. As far as the rear goes, if you're driving the car hard, some good and cheap upgrades are the factory toe-links and trailing arms found on the 1LE, ZL1 and Z28, and the inner upper control arm bushing from the Z28. Solid subframe bushings also make a big difference - you'll need to go aftermarket for these. For the front, other than new struts/coilovers there's not a whole lot to do. You can get an improved insert for the inner radius rod bushing; but if you buy the Z28 ones they come with the whole arm and bushing, not just the insert; not sure how many companies make an improved insert (I have ones by JPSS but it appears he's no longer around). You may also consider camber/caster plates for improved caster and/or steering axis inclination. All of these upgrades will help keep the rear end planted, reduce dynamic wheel alignments, and better keep the front wheels straight and centered. __________________ Overkill/Self Tuned; Mace Camshafts; K&N Typhoon Cold Air Intake; Ported 80mm Throttle Body/Intake Manifolds/Manifold Spacer; Solo Performance High-Flow Cats, Cat-back Exhaust; Vitesse Motorsports Throttle Controller; Elite Engineering E2 Catch Can; BC Racing BR Coilovers; JPSS Delrin Radius Rod Bushing Inserts, Sway Bars; Pegasus Aluminum Rear Cradle Bushings, Camber/Caster Plates; Z/28 Toe Links, Trailing Arms, Upper Control Arm Bushings, Rear Shock Mounts

02-20-2020, 09:13 AM	#4
olblue75 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Clarksville Tennesse. Posts: 6,064	The Z28 upper control arm rear bushing is a huge upgrade but they are kinda spendy if you can find them!! BMR makes one very similar. __________________ Orange Krush II 1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components.

02-20-2020, 10:52 AM	#5
Black_SS10 SomeguyK Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: FL Posts: 1,947	Prothane radius arm inserts Subframe bushings Your choice of coilovers OR springs/shocks/struts Z28 UCA bushings You choice of trailing and toe arms. Factory will work at lower power lvls. Fixed arms are fine unless your really low or need some crazy adjustability. SPC sells eccentric bolts that increase adjustability. You dont need lower control arms, unless your doing a 15inch wheel conversion. Grab a zl1 rear sway bar. That will help greatly. That is more than most people need. You can take it further with solid subframe bushings, poly bushings everywhere OR replacing all the arms. But it is your money. __________________ TMS 427, Dart iron Block, Forged assembly, Frankenstien heads, AGP TT 62/62 BB turbo's, AGP/Fore triple fuel system, Tilton clutch, Holley 1 7/8 shorties, Technostalgia tail lights,Oracle, Aeroforce, MGW shifter,Flowmaster, Pegasus subframe bushings,BMR trailing & toe arms,Z28 UCA bushings,Zl1 rear sway bar,Prothane,BMR,Goodridge brake lines,Ridetech HQ coilovers,3.91,Trutrac,billet caps,DSS axles,HE offest,built TR6060,1LE diffuser,Havoc spoiler,SSclones,20in MRR 017, Pirelli P Zero, Nitto NT555RII More to come.