FIXED!!Monster clutch. Those that have tracked,question concerning your 1LE's clutch

[tw78911sc]

My shop bolted it on w/o removing tranny, but they do have a lift, I completely flush the whole system, not just suck off the stuff in the reservoir. I use the motul 660 same as the brake fluid.

Originally Posted by tw78911sc

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...p-04-07-cts-v/

I heard some have had issues installing, my shop did it day one on the lift and had done several and actually recommended it to me

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Mark, the bleeder is interesting but I'm not "buying" it in the sense that I am not thinking that ditching the smaller reservoir and moving back to the main reservoir is the answer. *if* the smaller reservoir was the problem, then fine, I'll stand corrected. But here is another observation for what it's worth.

I recently cleaned my clutch fluid by emptying and refilling the small reservoir. The shifting was smoother and the clutch pedal felt more easy to depress. But here's the thing. With the old fluid the clutch actually wasn't bad. I'd driven for months without needing to change the fluid. With the new fluid there isn't as much "feel". I don't mean to appear like I'm contradicting myself here but I like both situations for different reasons. Let me go on:

Old Fluid:
- consistent shifting
- no problems with the clutch going into gear
- harder to press clutch but felt precise

New fluid
- having trouble getting into 1st and 2nd gears at times
- inconsistent shifting as a result
- clutch is slippery feeling and I don't feel that I'm in as much control as before.

Having said this I'm glad I changed the fluid. When I did the reservoir was only 1/3 fluid. Somehow the extra fluid was consumed. Nothing is leaking.

ASSUMPTION
I assume here the notion of keeping the clutch fluid and brake master cylinder together is sound as the second poster suggests. However since I have the separated reservoir like you and so many other C5'ers I'm not going to revert just yet. Instead I'm going to experiment by topping off the clutch reservoir with new fluid vs. Emptying it each time. One of the benefits posted here in 2012 when we all bought these clutch reservoirs was keeping the clutch dust out of the brake lines. Ok. That's done. And maybe that means the clutch is designed to operate with dirty fluid. And if that's true then my topping off strategy may be the ideal thing giving the best of both worlds - more clutch feel and less brake line contamination.

One more thing. I only use DOT4 fluid in the clutch line.


-CRT

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Im just still running Dot 3 in the clutch system. How would i get air in the system, it's never completely dry when i change fluid?

The cap sometimes doesn't seat straight. Try a feather light touch when screwing it on. And see my other post about loss of fluid over time, although with as often as you change yours I doubt that's the case.


-CRT

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[h018871]

Originally Posted by cornerspeed92

Is it true that the tranny has to be dropped?

No
I did mine on jack stands. It just takes a bit of fiddling. I posted a thread in the DIY section but don't know how to copy while on my phone.

I have the separate reservoir and flush with DOT4 whenever it gets cloudy ~ that works out to be about every oil change.
So far, knock on wood, no issues with pedal feel or shifting. I've run above 100F ambient.

[cornerspeed92]

Originally Posted by CrystalRedTintcoat

Mark, the bleeder is interesting but I'm not "buying" it in the sense that I am not thinking that ditching the smaller reservoir and moving back to the main reservoir is the answer. *if* the smaller reservoir was the problem, then fine, I'll stand corrected. But here is another observation for what it's worth.

I recently cleaned my clutch fluid by emptying and refilling the small reservoir. The shifting was smoother and the clutch pedal felt more easy to depress. But here's the thing. With the old fluid the clutch actually wasn't bad. I'd driven for months without needing to change the fluid. With the new fluid there isn't as much "feel". I don't mean to appear like I'm contradicting myself here but I like both situations for different reasons. Let me go on:

Old Fluid:
- consistent shifting
- no problems with the clutch going into gear
- harder to press clutch but felt precise

New fluid
- having trouble getting into 1st and 2nd gears at times
- inconsistent shifting as a result
- clutch is slippery feeling and I don't feel that I'm in as much control as before.

Having said this I'm glad I changed the fluid. When I did the reservoir was only 1/3 fluid. Somehow the extra fluid was consumed. Nothing is leaking.

ASSUMPTION
I assume here the notion of keeping the clutch fluid and brake master cylinder together is sound as the second poster suggests. However since I have the separated reservoir like you and so many other C5'ers I'm not going to revert just yet. Instead I'm going to experiment by topping off the clutch reservoir with new fluid vs. Emptying it each time. One of the benefits posted here in 2012 when we all bought these clutch reservoirs was keeping the clutch dust out of the brake lines. Ok. That's done. And maybe that means the clutch is designed to operate with dirty fluid. And if that's true then my topping off strategy may be the ideal thing giving the best of both worlds - more clutch feel and less brake line contamination.

One more thing. I only use DOT4 fluid in the clutch line.


-CRT

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Great read Brian,Thank you

Originally Posted by h018871

No
I did mine on jack stands. It just takes a bit of fiddling. I posted a thread in the DIY section but don't know how to copy while on my phone.

I have the separate reservoir and flush with DOT4 whenever it gets cloudy ~ that works out to be about every oil change.
So far, knock on wood, no issues with pedal feel or shifting. I've run above 100F ambient.

Thanks for the info.

[Dropspeed]

I still have the stock setup and never separated. I have about 12 total (hard) track days on the car this way and 14k miles with zero clutch issues. I have flushed the brake fluid 3 times total on the 14k miles.

I have been skeptical of separating the clutch from the brake fluid and decided to try it if I have issues, but haven't had any yet

Matt

[VOGGS-LS3-1LE]

Originally Posted by X25

Actually, I think it is because you separated the clutch fluid. I have been trying to make this point everywhere. The C5 and C6 Corvettes that come with that little clutch reservoir are notorious for sticky clutch since the little clutch reservoir is just not big enough to provide enough fresh fluid to cycle through. It seems GM understands this issue, and Gen5 Camaro (which was released 5 years later) comes with a huge brake fluid reservoir serving both the brakes and the clutch. I used to change the clutch reservoir fluid all the time when I owned Corvettes, but I don't even bother with the Camaros, and everything is running fine.

If you have contaminated the slave cylinder to the point that it does not seal as good as it normally does, this will get worse in time even if you keep the fluid clean or even get it flushed. I would hope not. I highly recommend you ditch that little cute clutch reservoir

In an ideal world, you would have big reservoirs for both the brakes and the clutch separately.

I 100% agree. I too think separating the clutch is not a good idea....

[ADR01T]

Originally Posted by VOGGS-LS3-1LE

I 100% agree. I too think separating the clutch is not a good idea....

Count me as a third. I bought a divorced clutch reservoir at one point and then decided that I did not want to do it after all. I am not comfortable with such a small volume dedicated to the clutch. There's no room for error or malfunction. I bleed before track days and purge a small volume in between each day of multi-day events to verify no air/contamination in the lines. Need to make some time to get the car up on a lift and install the Tick bleeder so I can purge that too but I had zero clutch issues my 2 days of tracking the car this year. It's probably worth noting that I ran a track that was very easy on the car (Daytona Int'l).

Still searching for a good solution for the oil temps though. Damn these LS3s run hot

[X25]

Originally Posted by ADR01T

Count me as a third. I bought a divorced clutch reservoir at one point and then decided that I did not want to do it after all. I am not comfortable with such a small volume dedicated to the clutch. There's no room for error or malfunction. I bleed before track days and purge a small volume in between each day of multi-day events to verify no air/contamination in the lines. Need to make some time to get the car up on a lift and install the Tick bleeder so I can purge that too but I had zero clutch issues my 2 days of tracking the car this year. It's probably worth noting that I ran a track that was very easy on the car (Daytona Int'l).

Still searching for a good solution for the oil temps though. Damn these LS3s run hot

If I were to do it again, I'd first install an oil temp gauge, and then replace the radiator. I replaced the radiator, and did not notice any difference, which led me to buy an external oil cooler, but it turns out I was being fed a calculated oil temp value anyway, and the calculation did not 'know' about my shiny new radiator.

I'd install an additional cooler or replace the factory unit only if the radiator upgrade is not enough.

[CHMSC]

Originally Posted by X25

I think flushing the whole line is what so far has benefited you the most. Good luck!

Possibly but I have gotten the fluid extremely dirty and still no issues as I had before. Been running this setup for over 25,000 Miles and several track days.

I will agree I think the remote resivoir that is available is way to small for our cars.

X25 if there was a remote resivoir that was bigger would you be interested in that?

[X25]

Originally Posted by CHMSC

Possibly but I have gotten the fluid extremely dirty and still no issues as I had before. Been running this setup for over 25,000 Miles and several track days.

I will agree I think the remote resivoir that is available is way to small for our cars.

X25 if there was a remote resivoir that was bigger would you be interested in that?

Yes, if I had any issues with clutch, I would definitely want to do that. I don't have any issues, though, which makes me lazy on wanting to do any change : )

[CHMSC]

Originally Posted by X25

Yes, if I had any issues with clutch, I would definitely want to do that. I don't have any issues, though, which makes me lazy on wanting to do any change : )

Haha understandable. I did it for two reasons, one because of clutch issues and two from containing my brake system. When it was still stock I was shocked how fast it got dirty.

[Matt@Tick]

We haven't even got around to making any changes on our personal 2010 1SS we just bought, not even a speed bleeder or our stainless braided clutch line. But in retrospect we haven't driven this car much either, just once to a local 1/8th mile to see what it would run as one of our employees drives a 2011 GT Mustang and we were certain our mostly stock Camaro (MBRP AXLE BACK) could hang with him time wise. Results were inconclusive as our clutch started to slip under aggressive launches but we managed an 8.88@85 with our ace in the hole Jonathan behind the wheel. Soon we hope to start some research and development with our car and be able to produce some trick parts there has been a lack of for fifth gens but I don't want to leak to much information or get anyone's hopes up, stay tuned to our site and our Facebook page and hopefully you'll start seeing some new interesting parts come from us.
http://www.tickperformance.com/2010-...ro-ss-zl1-z28/
https://www.facebook.com/tickperformance

[ADR01T]

Originally Posted by X25

If I were to do it again, I'd first install an oil temp gauge, and then replace the radiator. I replaced the radiator, and did not notice any difference, which led me to buy an external oil cooler, but it turns out I was being fed a calculated oil temp value anyway, and the calculation did not 'know' about my shiny new radiator.

I'd install an additional cooler or replace the factory unit only if the radiator upgrade is not enough.

Thanks for the feedback. I've been following your build thread and all of the oil cooler\temp gauge back-and-forth. Thanks for being a test mule for the rest of us. No more derailing; PM sent.

The clutch issue has been a hot topic, it seems, since the cars were released back in 09'. I see people have left it stock and no issues, other did the separate reservoir and that helped, and those in both camps have experienced issues with soft-pedal as well. I know that Lingenfelter markets an upgraded spring because they claim the stock pedal is soft too... This is one of those things I chalk up to personal extrapolation. Goldilocks and the three bears stuff. Regardless I never want to have to worry about getting a soft pedal on the track. I'm going to be content with the Tick bleeder and shared clutch/brake reservoir until I experience issues. Bleeding it with the same Motul I use for the brakes and keeping the shared fluid clean should be more than adequate for my needs.