Keep losing power??? - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Maroon 6.2L SS · 06-09-2019, 06:12 PM

Hey all. I've got something going on here and don't understand what it is.

I've got a 2010 Camaro SS A6 with most basic bolt-ons with suspension parts and drag radials. No headers or cam or stall converter though.

My first run in mid April was 12.72 with a 1.89 60'. Runs after that until now have been slowly getting worse and worse and worse. Today I ran a 2.11 60' with a 13.4. I've kept everything the same, tire pressure, burnouts, same drag strip, changed lanes, monitored DA, same weight and fuel amounts etc...etc...I talked to a couple guys there and they thought something was wrong. I haven't thrown a CEL either. I have a custom tune from Jannetty. One guy had mentioned compression loss?

One thing that I did notice happening over the last month or so, is, when I start the car up cold, it does a little bit of a miss/hiccup before it actually runs smooth.

Joe M 2012 2SS · 06-09-2019, 07:37 PM

Times will be worse now due to density altitude, or DA. I'm sure it was cooler in April when you ran 12.7, so running 13.4 now in much warmer air is quite normal for a naturally aspirated car.

Since you have a tune from Jannetty, I'm assuming you have an SCTX4?, record a cold start and e-mail it to them. Maybe your idle just needs adjusting.

I would also record a pass at the dragstrip and send it to them, e-mail tunes are limited versus dyno tunes because on the dyno, the tuner can see exactly what the car is doing, by sending the recorded data back to them, they can see exactly what the car is doing and then make any necessary adjustments.

I don't use Jannetty, but I use Dynosteve at RDP. I have had to send several passes to him so he can see what is going on to make necessary adjustments to my tune. He always gets it right eventually. But I can't expect him to do it without the recorded data being sent to him. I'm sure Ted's tunes are good as well, but just like Steve, he can only work with the data you give him.

Dylan1214 · 06-09-2019, 10:01 PM

Check your plugs

StingrayblueSS · 06-10-2019, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dylan1214

Check your plugs

I had a wire come off during a pass and I thought I broke something. Bad vibration and sounded like shit.

Vegas Bound · 06-10-2019, 09:22 AM

Replace your battery, seems to be the go to solution around here for everything. And check all your grounds.

Maroon 6.2L SS · 06-23-2019, 06:12 PM

What a nightmare. I don't know what is going on with this car. Since my last post I added long tube headers, replaced the spark plug wires, replaced the belts and replaced the battery. Last fall I replaced the spark plugs and did a complete fuel system service.

Today with my first run after doing long tubes, plug wires and battery I ran a 2.10 60' and 13.39 ET. 1850 DA. Doesn't make sense at all. I should be running 12.7-12.8 now at this track with that DA. The only thing left to do that I can think of is take it in to the local performance shop and get it put on the chassis dyno. I hate to spend that kind of money but I'm out of ideas/options. I need to find something to sell in the house to pay for this, the wife will flip.

Dylan1214 · 06-28-2019, 05:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maroon 6.2L SS

What a nightmare. I don't know what is going on with this car. Since my last post I added long tube headers, replaced the spark plug wires, replaced the belts and replaced the battery. Last fall I replaced the spark plugs and did a complete fuel system service.

Today with my first run after doing long tubes, plug wires and battery I ran a 2.10 60' and 13.39 ET. 1850 DA. Doesn't make sense at all. I should be running 12.7-12.8 now at this track with that DA. The only thing left to do that I can think of is take it in to the local performance shop and get it put on the chassis dyno. I hate to spend that kind of money but I'm out of ideas/options. I need to find something to sell in the house to pay for this, the wife will flip.

That sucks man.. I would pull the valve covers and very intently inspect springs and rockers.. Sometimes a spring will crack or have a very small break.. Try to look everything over and eliminate all possibilities before bringing it in and spending big money.

Chris49066SS · 06-28-2019, 07:04 AM

Could also be a broken rocker arm..ask me how I know

acammer · 06-28-2019, 07:43 AM

My money is on the tune. Get with a local tuner and I bet they straighten it right out.

But - you should be looking to MPH, not ET, to dictate how the car is making power. How much has that changed?

zlathim · 06-28-2019, 08:48 AM

I agree with acammer. My car was a mess on a "custom" remote tune, even after several rounds of data log and revision to the tune. I'm not knocking Ted at all because I didn't use him. The guy that did mine couldn't even get it to idle without stalling. I ended up having a local shop tune it on the dyno. Night and day difference in my case, but my car is cammed and has a few more bolt ons than yours. YMMV

Maroon 6.2L SS · 06-28-2019, 03:09 PM

Thanks for the responses everybody. I will mention the rocker/springs possibility when I take it in to get it Dyno Tuned. I'm thinking it might be the remote custom tune as well. No disrespect to the tuner whatsoever.

I started off with a little over 109mph and now I'm down to a little over 106mph

Aries240SS · 06-28-2019, 04:18 PM

something is off if you're losing MPH for sure. Tunes don't go bad, so I would tend to suspect other items first. Check/Change plugs and wires to start with, and then pull the valve covers for a visual inspection. Since you haven't done a cam, it is less likely that there is something failed here, but it is still possible that a rocker arm has started to have trunion issues, or a spring is beginning to fail with higher milage. This can present only in the upper RPM range and would explain your issues.

Tuning with a local dyno tuner is definitely a preferred option, but there are some very successful remote tuners out there. I'd hate to see you take it to the dyne and end up spending $600+ on a tune and then need additional parts and labor on top when it might be a simple (and possibly cheap) fix.

StingrayblueSS · 06-28-2019, 06:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maroon 6.2L SS

Thanks for the responses everybody. I will mention the rocker/springs possibility when I take it in to get it Dyno Tuned. I'm thinking it might be the remote custom tune as well. No disrespect to the tuner whatsoever.

I started off with a little over 109mph and now I'm down to a little over 106mph

Are you familiar with the fuse pull for the octane tables. I do it every 3 months or so. Pull #5 and #20 fuses and leave them out over night.

Maroon 6.2L SS · 06-30-2019, 04:15 PM

I believe the fuse pull isn’t applicable when you get a custom tune, be it remote or dyno.

Already did plugs and plug wires.

Quick question, if I did have a problem with the rockers, rocker arms, springs etc...wouldn't the car throw a check engine light?

06-09-2019, 06:12 PM	#1
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 183	Keep losing power??? Hey all. I've got something going on here and don't understand what it is. I've got a 2010 Camaro SS A6 with most basic bolt-ons with suspension parts and drag radials. No headers or cam or stall converter though. My first run in mid April was 12.72 with a 1.89 60'. Runs after that until now have been slowly getting worse and worse and worse. Today I ran a 2.11 60' with a 13.4. I've kept everything the same, tire pressure, burnouts, same drag strip, changed lanes, monitored DA, same weight and fuel amounts etc...etc...I talked to a couple guys there and they thought something was wrong. I haven't thrown a CEL either. I have a custom tune from Jannetty. One guy had mentioned compression loss? One thing that I did notice happening over the last month or so, is, when I start the car up cold, it does a little bit of a miss/hiccup before it actually runs smooth.

06-09-2019, 10:01 PM	#3
Dylan1214 Drives: 2014 Camaro SS L99 Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: GrandRapids,Michigan Posts: 225 View My Garage	Check your plugs __________________ MODS: GPI MAX Package ported and milled heads+(229/250,111 LSA),Johnson 2110 Lifters,BTR .660 Springs,CHE Trunnions,C5R chain,DSX Flex Fuel kit,LSA Injectors,ZL1 Fuel Pump,MAMO Ported MSD Intake manifold,BOWhite ported Throttle body,25% UDP,CAI Intake,Intake Scoop,Kooks 1 7/8 headers,Borla attak catback,Elite catch can,BMR Motor mounts,CircleD 5C 4000-4200 Torque converter,ADM trans cooler,Jannetty Trans dipstick,DSS Aluminum Driveshaft,3.91 Gears,Eaton TrueTrac,JRE Billet caps,BMR Trailing arms,BMR Toe rods,BMR rear sway bar,Pegasus Solid sub frame bushings,DSS 1,000HP Axles

06-28-2019, 07:04 AM	#8
Chris49066SS Drives: 2010 SS L99 Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Missouri Posts: 1,634	Could also be a broken rocker arm..ask me how I know __________________ Previous PB:11.079 @ 122.99mph.. New setup time: TBD The 11.079 pass: https://youtu.be/pz27Zq54t_E Build thread - www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=555371

06-28-2019, 07:43 AM	#9
acammer GPI Sales Consultant Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS SGM Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Weedsport, NY Posts: 2,794 View My Garage	My money is on the tune. Get with a local tuner and I bet they straighten it right out. But - you should be looking to MPH, not ET, to dictate how the car is making power. How much has that changed? __________________ GPI Max Package 2.0: Brodix BR7 heads/GPI porting, MAX3 cam, ST2116LSR, BSR Max Lift rockers, LS7 LSXR with 103mm TB, Vararam OTR, Mcleod RXT, G-Force/Strange 9" IRS setup with 4.63 gear. 551whp, 11.1@124mph. *Got a question about a GPI product? Feel free to shoot me a message!*

06-28-2019, 08:48 AM	#10
zlathim Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: May 2009 Location: Idaho Posts: 726	I agree with acammer. My car was a mess on a "custom" remote tune, even after several rounds of data log and revision to the tune. I'm not knocking Ted at all because I didn't use him. The guy that did mine couldn't even get it to idle without stalling. I ended up having a local shop tune it on the dyno. Night and day difference in my case, but my car is cammed and has a few more bolt ons than yours. YMMV __________________ GPI SS2; EE E2 catch can; SP 1 7/8" LT Headers w/ hfc; FM AT 3" cat-back; CAI Cold Air Intake; AEM Wideband Tuned by GPI McCleod RXT; MGW flat stick; Ram Clutch slave cylinder & hydraulic adjuster BMR cradle & diff bushings, trailing arms, toe rods & upper control arm bushings Hotchkis sub-frame brace Stop Tech Z-23 brakes 4.10 gears, Eaton Truetrac, LPW diff cover Best 1/4 mile 12.073 @ 115.68 mph 3,300 ft DA

06-09-2019, 07:37 PM	#2
Joe M 2012 2SS Drives: 2012 2SS Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Shelby NC Posts: 2,549 View My Garage	Times will be worse now due to density altitude, or DA. I'm sure it was cooler in April when you ran 12.7, so running 13.4 now in much warmer air is quite normal for a naturally aspirated car. Since you have a tune from Jannetty, I'm assuming you have an SCTX4?, record a cold start and e-mail it to them. Maybe your idle just needs adjusting. I would also record a pass at the dragstrip and send it to them, e-mail tunes are limited versus dyno tunes because on the dyno, the tuner can see exactly what the car is doing, by sending the recorded data back to them, they can see exactly what the car is doing and then make any necessary adjustments. I don't use Jannetty, but I use Dynosteve at RDP. I have had to send several passes to him so he can see what is going on to make necessary adjustments to my tune. He always gets it right eventually. But I can't expect him to do it without the recorded data being sent to him. I'm sure Ted's tunes are good as well, but just like Steve, he can only work with the data you give him. __________________ Roto-Fab intake, SW 1 7/8" LT w/hi flow cats, Flowmaster outlaw exhaust, UDP, 160* stat, Circle D 3200, Moroso catch can, TCI line lock, Zex Nitrous 125 shot, 3.91 gear, Eaton True-trac, DSS 1000hp axles.

06-10-2019, 09:22 AM	#5
Vegas Bound Account Suspended Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Hospitality State Posts: 2,558	Replace your battery, seems to be the go to solution around here for everything. And check all your grounds.

06-23-2019, 06:12 PM	#6
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 183	What a nightmare. I don't know what is going on with this car. Since my last post I added long tube headers, replaced the spark plug wires, replaced the belts and replaced the battery. Last fall I replaced the spark plugs and did a complete fuel system service. Today with my first run after doing long tubes, plug wires and battery I ran a 2.10 60' and 13.39 ET. 1850 DA. Doesn't make sense at all. I should be running 12.7-12.8 now at this track with that DA. The only thing left to do that I can think of is take it in to the local performance shop and get it put on the chassis dyno. I hate to spend that kind of money but I'm out of ideas/options. I need to find something to sell in the house to pay for this, the wife will flip.

06-28-2019, 03:09 PM	#11
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 183	Thanks for the responses everybody. I will mention the rocker/springs possibility when I take it in to get it Dyno Tuned. I'm thinking it might be the remote custom tune as well. No disrespect to the tuner whatsoever. I started off with a little over 109mph and now I'm down to a little over 106mph

06-28-2019, 04:18 PM	#12
Aries240SS Drives: 2011 1SS RS Camaro, 1995 LSX 240SX Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 461	something is off if you're losing MPH for sure. Tunes don't go bad, so I would tend to suspect other items first. Check/Change plugs and wires to start with, and then pull the valve covers for a visual inspection. Since you haven't done a cam, it is less likely that there is something failed here, but it is still possible that a rocker arm has started to have trunion issues, or a spring is beginning to fail with higher milage. This can present only in the upper RPM range and would explain your issues. Tuning with a local dyno tuner is definitely a preferred option, but there are some very successful remote tuners out there. I'd hate to see you take it to the dyne and end up spending $600+ on a tune and then need additional parts and labor on top when it might be a simple (and possibly cheap) fix. __________________ 2011 Camaro 1SS Whipple Supercharged street monster

06-30-2019, 04:15 PM	#14
Maroon 6.2L SS Drives: 2010 Camaro SS A6 Join Date: Oct 2018 Location: Brighton, MI Posts: 183	I believe the fuse pull isn’t applicable when you get a custom tune, be it remote or dyno. Already did plugs and plug wires. Quick question, if I did have a problem with the rockers, rocker arms, springs etc...wouldn't the car throw a check engine light? Last edited by Maroon 6.2L SS; 07-01-2019 at 10:05 AM.