Guessing this is the end..Rod Knock?

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by Dylan1214

Ok guys, I just realized there may be some serious misconceptions here...This problem has absolutely nothing to do with the quality of GPI's products..Shit like this just happens from time to time, no rhyme no reason..I'm not blaming GPI at all.. I personally cannot speak highly enough about their products, and im not trying to be some fan boy, they're well proven within the community..sometimes stock parts fail..so chill out

i dont see anyone is saying anything about GPI at all. At least not from what im reading

Everyone is commenting on your bottom end which im guessing is still the sbe. I dont see where you would think there is a misconception.

hope you get your issue resolved/repaired and return stronger

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[weSS1LEy]

Yes I agree but does anyone have more detail into how this situation occurs? Deficiency of engine block? Too much cam? Too much rpm? Improper install spring lifter preload? I’m still new to engine internals

[Dylan1214]

Originally Posted by sixty9fordkiller

i dont see anyone is saying anything about GPI at all. At least not from what im reading

Everyone is commenting on your bottom end which im guessing is still the sbe. I dont see where you would think there is a misconception.

hope you get your issue resolved/repaired and return stronger

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

I received a PM questioning GPI'S integrity and quality control..Just wanted my stance to be known publicly..

[Clarkstar]

Originally Posted by weSS1LEy

Yes I agree but does anyone have more detail into how this situation occurs? Deficiency of engine block? Too much cam? Too much rpm? Improper install spring lifter preload? I’m still new to engine internals

I've read the factory bearings have been known to fail when spun 7200+ rpm

[sixty9fordkiller]

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

I've read the factory bearings have been known to fail when spun 7200+ rpm

Can you post a source for this? To me it would be the opposite: Id say the valvetrain would let go before the bottom. There are a lot of variables in play here.

The op said he made a pull the night before and thats it. He still hasnt torn down the engine.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

[Rhino79]

It is always unfortunate, but failures do occur. Given the low mileage of your car, I would tend to believe that maybe there was a problem early on and the increase power/rpm exaggerated it and finished it off.

The LS3/L99 bottom ends are tough as nails generally, we spin them over 8000 on the regular now.

So in an LS the oil goes to the top end, then the mains, then the rods last. If a rod bearing goes usually you don't see any issue with pressure. And also since the rods are the last to get oil, they will fail before anything else also.

Always happy to help our guys out, I don't think our integrity is in question at all, nor our products!

Hang in there Dylan!

[frey.199]

Originally Posted by Clarkstar

I've read the factory bearings have been known to fail when spun 7200+ rpm

I'm confused. Isn't that in the red line area? Why would anyone need to be in that area to begin with. Idk, that's why I'm asking. Is their some hidden power up there that I don't know about? I was thinking power usually levels off at some point in your rpms. Just curious.

[go_go_gadget88]

Originally Posted by frey.199

I'm confused. Isn't that in the red line area? Why would anyone need to be in that area to begin with. Idk, that's why I'm asking. Is their some hidden power up there that I don't know about? I was thinking power usually levels off at some point in your rpms. Just curious.

You have to remember though, the redline on the tach is there for the car in stock form, before mods. These things are all dependent on your setup. You can sure have your build be done by 6500, and shift around the factory redline. Or you can go big like the GPI guys and stretch power way into the 7000's before it starts dropping off. All in the build, your goals, and how far you are willing to send it!



OP, how many miles did your shortblock have on it before this?

[Moto-Mojo]

Bummer, dude. But you’re right, you’re entering (potentially) a world of pain when doing serious mods. And ‘it’ happens to stock motors as well. Enjoy ‘em while their running!

[lazerlemonta]

Sorry for your loss. Hope you get it back together quickly.

[zlathim]

That is heartbreaking. Glad you have a plan worked out to get it going again.

[frey.199]

Originally Posted by go_go_gadget88

You have to remember though, the redline on the tach is there for the car in stock form, before mods. These things are all dependent on your setup. You can sure have your build be done by 6500, and shift around the factory redline. Or you can go big like the GPI guys and stretch power way into the 7000's before it starts dropping off. All in the build, your goals, and how far you are willing to send it!



OP, how many miles did your shortblock have on it before this?

Makes sense. So I'm guessing you'll have to upgrade a lot of other rotating parts in order to handle those higher rpms if you're modded to hit those high rpms. Interesting.

How far does one know to push it on a dyno before it breaks? lol

[Moto-Mojo]

Turns out that redline limit ain’t just whistling Dixie!

[lazerlemonta]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

Turns out that redline limit ain’t just whistling Dixie!

These things handle higher RPM pretty damn good. Not sure why a few have spit rod bearings out. I personally have been turning LS motors 7400 since the mid 2000s. As its been stated a few times at high RPM you should not be just slamming the throttle shut, engine braking or living on the limiter. Who knows what actually causes these few to let go. I would be willing to bet there are more successfully turning 7500+ then failing.