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Old 08-01-2012, 08:07 PM   #1
Rallyman6
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Rear end-link keep pulling out of rear swing-arm

I have Eibach sway bars, BC Coil-overs, and stock end-links.

The end-link on the r/r pulled out and broke the tab on the swing-arm. replaced the swing-arm with OEM - 3 weeks later the l/r end-link did the same.

Has anybody made the end-links as a DIY? They are just Heim joints - Hotchkiss wants a lot for in expensive parts.

Any thoughts?
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:14 PM   #2
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Like this?



It is not the first time it has happened with 2010-2011 control arms. We have reinforcement tabs for that problem.


Last edited by Apex Motorsports; 08-01-2012 at 08:24 PM.
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:23 PM   #3
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If your paying good money for control arms just go 2012 FE4-FE5 and don't look back with the new style mounts and links there will be no more little tab to rip off. Just a thought and would require ditching your current rear sway for the new style
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:30 PM   #4
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Like this?



It is not the first time it has happened with 2010-2011 control arms. We have reinforcement tabs for that problem.

do you weld these on?
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Old 08-01-2012, 08:57 PM   #5
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do you weld these on?
No. There are two "teeth" that lock the tab in and then you bolt up the endlink.



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Old 08-02-2012, 10:21 AM   #6
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We also build some end link reinforcement braces that keep this issue from happening. They are super affordable and easy to install. Here is a quick picture of them.
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Old 09-03-2012, 12:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallyman6 View Post
I have Eibach sway bars, BC Coil-overs, and stock end-links.

The end-link on the r/r pulled out and broke the tab on the swing-arm. replaced the swing-arm with OEM - 3 weeks later the l/r end-link did the same.

Has anybody made the end-links as a DIY? They are just Heim joints - Hotchkiss wants a lot for in expensive parts.

Any thoughts?
First of all stock endlinks still . Second thrash the Eibach and get FE4/5 newer setup. No clunking issues and better cornering.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:57 PM   #8
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First of all stock endlinks still . Second thrash the Eibach and get FE4/5 newer setup. No clunking issues and better cornering.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rallyman6 View Post
I have Eibach sway bars, BC Coil-overs, and stock end-links.

The end-link on the r/r pulled out and broke the tab on the swing-arm. replaced the swing-arm with OEM - 3 weeks later the l/r end-link did the same.

Has anybody made the end-links as a DIY? They are just Heim joints - Hotchkiss wants a lot for in expensive parts.

Any thoughts?
The failure rate on the RLCA is very very low. That two have failed within three weeks on your car tells me there is another issue with your car. Can you please post pictures of the endlinks you are using, the washers and nuts? I would also like to see the endlink that has not failed and how it is attached to the arm.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:00 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011 View Post
First of all stock endlinks still . Second thrash the Eibach and get FE4/5 newer setup. No clunking issues and better cornering.
What are you referring to when you say clunking issues? I am curious because I think I might have this problem.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:09 PM   #11
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What are you referring to when you say clunking issues? I am curious because I think I might have this problem.
#1 Check the installation.
#2 Check the straps and bushes.
#3 Do the endlink test.

Check the bushes and straps to make certain they are tight.

Make certain they are installed correctly to the MFG's instructions including torque values.

Spherical joints, even those that are supposed to be quiet, will eventually make noise as they wear and loosen. Some are noisier than others. The easiest way to test for a clunk from a spherical or any other type of endlink is to disconnect one endlink stud. Secure the loose endlink and for spherical link tape the remaining joints to quiet them. If the noise goes away you know it is the endlink.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:02 PM   #12
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Thanks, I will be sure to do that this weekend!
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Old 09-06-2012, 06:35 PM   #13
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A large, thick washer does the same as those tabs. That's what I've been using with Nyloc Nuts without issue.

My right rear kept coming loose at the bracket, and I had it TIGHT! I think what happens is, if that nut comes loose, it allows the stud to act as a lever on the bracket. If it goes on long enough unnoticed, it'll wear the bracket to a point it'll shear.
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