Best brake line & brake pads package for track day

[hcsi99]

Did you experienced track guys also install the separate clutch reservoir?

[markgws6]

No. I haven't had any problems on the track with shifting (knocks on desk). My clutch engagement and shifting could be smoother at lower RPMs however.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by toehead93

That is a dumb rule. I understand the brake fluid but the pads? Every car is different so I understand if I have stock pads on a Civic I need to do something but the stock SS pads are fine on the track and besides that they will never know unless they also require you to install the pads at the track under the eye an inspector. Our stock pads are upgrades for other cars.

Actually, fluid and pads are easy to understand.

Street pads - you have to think in more general terms than just Camaros here - are not up to the task of functioning well enough at the temperatures that can be reached during a track session. Even entry-level track pads aren't enough beyond some level of track experience/skill.

So I fully understand the track not wanting to administer all manner of exceptions based on variables such as potential car performance, OE brake pad thermal capabilities, driver experience and skill level, presence (or not) of supplemental brake cooling, session length, ambient temperatures in PR, etc., etc.

It's the "need" to replace the lines that's odd. We here don't yet know whether that simply means new OE lines (as a way of guaranteeing good brake line condition) or if a braided type of line is required. OP - what, if anything, does this rule specify you must use as far as lines are concerned?


Norm

[CrystalRedTintcoat]

Originally Posted by 1LeSS

To the guys that have changed their brake fluid over. Do you run with the clutch and brake reservoirs separated or together?

Can the Motul 600 fluid go in the clutch lines too?

Separated. Yes motul can go into clutch line. Read the manual. Once your go to dot 4 in the brake line you cannot go back to dot 3.

Everyone should read the manual after reading advice on the forum to make sure they triangulate the information between here, the manual then make their own best informed decision.

[EarlyApex]

For fluid I like to alternate between Motul 600 and ATE super blue. The Motul is a gold color and ATE blue so it is easy to tell when you have fully replaced the old fluid by noting the color. I use a pressure bleeder so it is a one man job.

[Norm Peterson]

You won't be using much Blue any more unless you've got a supply of your own tucked away somewhere. It was recalled, including stock at supply houses and such, all because of its out-of-spec color (brake fluid for highway use is required to have a clear to amber color).


Standard No. 116; Motor vehicle brake fluids.

Regulations current to October 28, 2013

S5.1.14 Fluid color. Brake fluid and hydraulic system mineral oil shall be of the color indicated:
DOT 3, DOT 4, and DOT 5.1 non-SBBF—colorless to amber.
DOT 5 SBBF—purple
Hydraulic system mineral oil—green


Norm

[trackguy]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Street pads - you have to think in more general terms than just Camaros here - are not up to the task of functioning well enough at the temperatures that can be reached during a track session. Even entry-level track pads aren't enough beyond some level of track experience/skill.

This has been my experience. It's not uncommon after a two-day event at a fast track with heavy braking zones for the occasional student to go home with completely used-up street pads, regardless of the condition the pads were in when the student arrived. This is more likely with novices with undeveloped braking technique. So-called street/track pads aren't much better.

If the OP is going to track the car more than once or twice a year, I'd recommend he look at something like a PFC 08 pad (Performance Friction Compound 08), and plan to leave them on the car year-round. Be sure to get pads for all four corners, and to bed them in properly before going to the track.

[hcsi99]

I was able to get two cans before it was gone thanks to Tire Rack Luke! I always switched between amber and blue for the above stated reason, so I could tell if I got all the old stuff out.

[Megatron]

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

It happened both with stock fluid and then with the Wilwood 570. After that, was done messing around and upgraded so never will be an issue again....CTSV front, ZL1 rotors, Cobalt Friction pads, Castrol SRF and Goodridge lines....never have had even a hint of fade since and I've run Road America, Autobahn, Nashville, etc...the set up allows me to brake later and still get it slowed down....

Cobalt Friction pads, Castrol SRF, & Goodridge Lines on my 1LE!

[JDP Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Charlie Rios

I bought a 2014 I LE camaro and I was looking to comply to track my car, I was told that I need to replace my brake lines and pads, including the brake fluid, Please any suggestion on what to buy as a good package, one that you guys have test already. thanks for the help (not sure is there is already a thread on this, I was searching and can't find anything)

I would do the brake lines and fluid before you hit the track. The brake lines decrease stopping distance considerably and in a game of feet that is critical. The fluid is also a must in my opinion as the factory fluid will boil. I would run the factory pads until they need to be replaced; they are a consumable so use them up. Then you can decide if running at the track is for you. Caution - It is addicting!!!!

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

Tyler at JDP Motorsports can help you out...

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

I don't agree that you NEED to change pads or lines.....Brake fluid Yes, but many of us have tracked our cars with the stock pads and lines.

Feel free to browse my links below in my signature about tracking the car stock.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=302569

Matt

Factory lines get hot and swell. If you're bleeding the fluid it isn't hard to install lines and they are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things.. I always suggest lines and fluid.

Originally Posted by So Cal Camaro

Changing the lines and fluid at a minimum is cheap insurance versus damage due to brake fade at the track...I've had it happen and I would rather spend what I did to make sure the brakes are there, than worry about what if...

Originally Posted by 1LeSS

To the guys that have changed their brake fluid over. Do you run with the clutch and brake reservoirs separated or together?

Can the Motul 600 fluid go in the clutch lines too?

The clutch's are prone to "staying on the floor" under high heat and RPM situations. I run a separate reservoir with a clutch return spring. They are inexpensive items and worth every penny. I can't tell you how many track days got blown because of little issues and with the cost of a track day it just isn't worth it.

The Motul is fine in the clutch system and actually better than the standard fluid. Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions. If it can be broken I've probably done it and have a solution to fix it...

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007

[IOM Black Diamond]

Originally Posted by JDP Motorsports

I would do the brake lines and fluid before you hit the track. The brake lines decrease stopping distance considerably and in a game of feet that is critical. The fluid is also a must in my opinion as the factory fluid will boil. I would run the factory pads until they need to be replaced; they are a consumable so use them up. Then you can decide if running at the track is for you. Caution - It is addicting!!!!







Factory lines get hot and swell. If you're bleeding the fluid it isn't hard to install lines and they are relatively cheap in the grand scheme of things.. I always suggest lines and fluid.







The clutch's are prone to "staying on the floor" under high heat and RPM situations. I run a separate reservoir with a clutch return spring. They are inexpensive items and worth every penny. I can't tell you how many track days got blown because of little issues and with the cost of a track day it just isn't worth it.

The Motul is fine in the clutch system and actually better than the standard fluid. Please feel free to call, email or PM me anytime with questions. If it can be broken I've probably done it and have a solution to fix it...

Kind regards,

Jordan Priestley
888.308.6007

JDP thanks for the info

[Charlie Rios]

JDP Motorsports, and the rest of the forum, thanks for all the input, this is a great forum. Thanks!!!!

[1LeSS]

So up here in the north it would appear that there is no brake high performances fluids (as mentioned) available.
Has anyone tried Amsoil Series 500? Its the only "racing" fluid I have been able to find all over town.

Originally Posted by Dropspeed

Interesting rule.

Ok Motul 600, Brembo 600 or ATE Super blue for fluid.

I don't have different pads or lines so I will let others answer with their experience.

Matt

[rockrau]

Bleed the brakes with high temp. brake fluid such as Motol RBF 600.Then hit road course!.....Just Do It!