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Old 02-09-2020, 06:57 PM   #1
fastblack10ss
 
Drives: 2010 SS M6
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Medina TN
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Wonít start after work (clutch, SC rear cog and rebuilt transmission)

A few months back output on transmission M6 broke. Pulled and sent to Tick Performance. While rebuilding I went ahead and put Mantic clutch in and just completed rear cog on TVS2300.
During transmission install a small sensor up near top on driver side I accidentally bent a pin and I thought I corrected it and the plug finally went on ok.
Fast forward to trying to crank today and no starter click but fuel sys primes.
Battery was disconnected for about 4.5 months.
Any ideas? Should I try re-flash last tune, pull transmission to check the unknown sensor?
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:22 PM   #2
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I would start with that sensor but reflashing the tune will be faster.

You shouldn't have to pull it, just undo trans crossmember and there are three front crossmember (?) bolts on each side, remove rearmost set, loosen middle set to about halfway and the front set loosen just a little. That should drop it enough you can get to it.

You can also look for images of a TR6060 and see exactly what plug you are referring to and see if it has anything to do with starting/cranking.

Also possible the battery lost enough juice to only be able to prime. I would actually start with it and a voltmeter and/or charger.

ETA: Pics in this thread
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...onnectors.html

Last edited by blake-b; 02-09-2020 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:50 PM   #3
fastblack10ss
 
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It was sensor 2 in that link so it says it’s for shift skip. I’m going to try and reflash computer and see where that gets me.
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Old 02-09-2020, 08:59 PM   #4
fastblack10ss
 
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Tried reflash and still not trying to crank. I doubt it’s gonna be because of the sensor and my gut feeling is I got pin bent back correctly. I did check fuses 15-20 that looked like it was for ignition.
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Old 02-09-2020, 10:35 PM   #5
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Have you checked the battery's voltage?
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Old 02-10-2020, 06:10 AM   #6
fastblack10ss
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blake-b View Post
Have you checked the battery's voltage?
I checked and charged to about 12.7V. Iím gonna try and take battery to be tested as voltage seems ok but maybe something happened to it over the past few months.
Next thing is to check key fob. Immobilezer light goes off after a few seconds and the key will lock/unlock but maybe still a chance the keys isnít allowing it to crank.
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Old 02-10-2020, 11:37 AM   #7
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Good idea on the key. Something could be up with the VATS
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Old 02-10-2020, 08:35 PM   #8
fastblack10ss
 
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So I charged battery again and tried tonight. Result was it started no problems and ran great.
So appears voltage below 12.7 is no go for cranking.
Now onto bleed new Tick master cylinder. I’m gonna post in driveline section.
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Old 02-16-2020, 02:48 PM   #9
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Well if it's not trying to crank....obviously first thing to check is the starter, and whether it is getting power when you try to start.

Voltages will go a lot lower than 12.7 during cranking, even nominal voltage for a battery sitting is barely as much as 12.7v

Yours must have been flat.
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