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Old 02-20-2013, 10:15 AM   #1
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Indoor car show power

Showed my car at Motorama this past weekend and unfortunately wasn't able to show my lights or play my stereo because I needed to unhook my battery. I've done a lot of research on how to get the power to my car, ie: inverters, power supplies, converted PC power supplies, battery chargers....

My question is, where does this hook up to the car? Do I run a wire to the fuse box for each piece of equipment I want to power?

My light strip and halos plug into the fuse box under the hood, those will be easy to power. The radio is powered through a fuse box in the trunk if I am not mistaken.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:08 PM   #2
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power supply...hooks to battery.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:19 PM   #3
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power supply...hooks to battery.
Hooking it to the battery, which is not connected to anything, wouldn't do any good. Do you mean the + and - wires that have been removed from the battery?

The power supplies are only rated for so many amps. I think they are meant to be hooked directly to the components being powered.
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Old 02-20-2013, 12:35 PM   #4
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Indoor car show power

AAC sells a power supply for just this reason. It's a 120v supply that you can plug in for indoor shows.

Here is a link: http://www.automotivelightstore.com/30aps-1.aspx

Here is the thread explaining it:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178347
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Old 02-20-2013, 05:01 PM   #5
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Hook it to the battery wires. That way it'll power everything from a central hookup. If you're doing it often, you can Y off a 4 or 8 ga. quick disconnect plug so you don't have to wire it up at each show.

I used cascade hybrid power supplies hooked to an optima hidden away in the back of the booth. That way I had 90 amps continuous (depending on draw) and 800 amps available for transients. You don't have to use the battery though if you're not pulling that much current. I had that setup running 3 cars at the LA auto show.

http://www.cascadeaudio.com/power_co...converters.htm
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Old 02-22-2013, 06:26 AM   #6
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I have a 2/15/100 amp battery charger/starter and a 30 amp power supply already. I could hook the battery charger/starter directly to the + and - cables that come from the battery, with alligator clips. This worries me though because I don't want to send to much power through the computer and fry something.

The 30 amp power supply directions show how to hook up a car stereo indoors, as in: in your home. If I connect it to my + and - will it have enough power to turn my stereo and lights on? It only uses 14 gauge wires to connect to devices. That doesn't seem heavy enough to be able to pass that much current.
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Old 02-22-2013, 08:27 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Deke736 View Post
AAC sells a power supply for just this reason. It's a 120v supply that you can plug in for indoor shows.

Here is a link: http://www.automotivelightstore.com/30aps-1.aspx

Here is the thread explaining it:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=178347
Exactly what I was going to suggest
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Old 02-22-2013, 09:08 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by AACstyle View Post
Granted, it will not run the stereo or other high-draw devices but will handle any lights just fine

Yes, very similar to a big trickle charger
This looks like a great device, but it will not power my stereo.

Like I said, I already have the equipment to provide the power. I really don't want to buy something else that will do what I already have. I just don't know how to get it from the unit to the car, be able to run everything, and not hurt my car.

If I take a +12v from the power supply and put a fuse jumper in the head unit fuse, will that turn the head unit on? I would also like to be able to do this without my key having to be in the ignition, which it would be if i just replaced the battery with a power supply unit.
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Old 02-22-2013, 11:40 AM   #9
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I have more time to type. I've done way more indoor big carshows with my other past cars than most except for TCAudio on here. lol
That battery in there as a reserve/buffer for a power supply is smart. You don't have to have a battery disconnected to get past fire marshalls. You have to disable the ability for the car to start. Put a disconnect on the starter wire on a switch if you want. Hook the power supply...cascade, kinetik, stinger, etc...to the battery. There are other ways too. This is just one.
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Old 02-22-2013, 12:47 PM   #10
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I build fire trucks for a living. When we send trucks to indoor show we attach a power cord to the battery studs that has a powerpole connector on the end. It's a common quick connect style plug that is available for even battery cable sized wire. At the show they unhook the batteries and plug in a box we made here that contains three truck batteries and an auto charger. The truck batteries can run all the lights on their own for a while and then they can plug the box in to maintain charge.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:21 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grocerygetter View Post
Put a disconnect on the starter wire on a switch if you want. Hook the power supply...cascade, kinetik, stinger, etc...to the battery. There are other ways too. This is just one.
This sounds like the best idea. I already have everything wired to be able to quick disconnect a battery tender. I could just draw off the battery and have the tender keep the battery charged. Is this healthy for the battery?

Is there a fuse I could pull rather than putting in a switch?
Edit: Fuse 12 is the starter.
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Old 02-22-2013, 01:48 PM   #12
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I guess pull the fuse and see if it turns over...if not, you are probably fine. If it cranks, most firemarshalls will say 'no go'.
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