t6060 clutch hose question - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

abshire1006 · 01-22-2020, 07:03 AM

hello, im wondering what is the size of the connections on the end of the clutch hoses, -an4 -an3, and what pressure does the master cylinder produce. im experimenting with a launch control design and im having issues finding any info, and im at work so i cant pull my hose or try and figure it out that way. thanks

NXTLEVL · 01-22-2020, 10:04 AM

Literally just looked into this as I am adding a clutch release valve (launch control of sorts as well.) Take a look at the fittings in this link. These are what are on the end of the stock hose although they are crimped on so if you're changing things you'd need to run -an3 line to make them work.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78310

abshire1006 · 01-22-2020, 10:26 AM

i found some fitting but they are the an-4, i thought thats what was ran on the t6060 transmission, i was looking at some 1/4 solenoid valve but the working pressure is 100psi, im not sure what psi will be seen inside that line so im not sure if i want to try it. but im going to have my clutch out my car this week so i was going to try and get it done when i had the clutch out of my car.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/T56-TR6060-...75.c100623.m-1

NXTLEVL · 01-22-2020, 10:55 AM

If you're changing the line it doesn't really matter what size hose you use (-4an or -3an) as long as the push end of the fitting works for the car which both of the fittings we looked at do. I have to use -3an as my clutch release valve fitting as -3an. I'm curious. What are you trying to do exactly?

abshire1006 · 01-23-2020, 06:44 AM

I’m going to add a normally open solenoid valve with a t on each end with a line to bypass the solenoid valve with a valve to regulate the pressure that goes back to my
Clutch, so I will hook the solenoid to a switch when I leave the line I will activate the switch and be able to dump the clutch and it will release slow, I’ll be able to control the flow and be more consistent with my launches. I’m having issues off the line. Blowing the tires off or bogging. So this way I will be consistent and can start bracket racing

Jayjellyfish212 · 02-05-2020, 06:36 PM

You should keep to -an4 that is equivalent to the 1/4 line that oem uses. If you don’t have a tick performance adjustable master that is all set with -4an then You will need to cut the stock line and add 2 adapters if you are still on stock master cylinder. But at some point you’ll still regardless still , This will require you to basically take a section out of the clutch hard line located around the brake booster. You are going to have to slip on a male 7/16-24 fitting at each end after cutting and then flare the lines. Once complete you can then use a fitting on each end that will be a 7/16-24 to -4an . From there you just swap the other fittings on the device to -4an and you’ll be all set. You can stick to-3an and they do sell
The fittings that after you cut the hard line and flare etc like I mentioned you can put a 7/16-24 to -3an if you want but I myself feel this is not good since your basically downsizing your line area all around the device. I put some info up on this in the drag section thread we are all on to. I’ll post some pictures as soon as I can but either way you go it’s pretty straight forward stuff... just sounds complicated in writing lol

Jayjellyfish212 · 02-05-2020, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NXTLEVL

Literally just looked into this as I am adding a clutch release valve (launch control of sorts as well.) Take a look at the fittings in this link. These are what are on the end of the stock hose although they are crimped on so if you're changing things you'd need to run -an3 line to make them work.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78310

That fitting would work if you are sticking to the -3an that the Magnus and Map Units come with.

Personally I’m gonna change the fittings to-4an on my device just so I’m certain that when I’m not using the device it will always be same as stock inner diameter hose line. Just don’t want to down size anything on my clutch lines since these clutch pedals have so many issues.. ya know?

I added some more info on that other thread in the drag section on this too

01-22-2020, 07:03 AM	#1
abshire1006 Drives: 2012 camaro ss Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Louisiana Posts: 35	t6060 clutch hose question hello, im wondering what is the size of the connections on the end of the clutch hoses, -an4 -an3, and what pressure does the master cylinder produce. im experimenting with a launch control design and im having issues finding any info, and im at work so i cant pull my hose or try and figure it out that way. thanks __________________ 2012 SS, Magnuson supercharger, leathel racing night fury cam, ported throttle body, long tube headers,ACT twin disk clutch, BMR suspension, 620 RWHP 580 ftp 11.8 @121 1/4 mile time on 295/35/20 nitto nt555g2 tires

01-22-2020, 10:26 AM	#3
abshire1006 Drives: 2012 camaro ss Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Louisiana Posts: 35	i found some fitting but they are the an-4, i thought thats what was ran on the t6060 transmission, i was looking at some 1/4 solenoid valve but the working pressure is 100psi, im not sure what psi will be seen inside that line so im not sure if i want to try it. but im going to have my clutch out my car this week so i was going to try and get it done when i had the clutch out of my car. https://www.ebay.com/itm/T56-TR6060-...75.c100623.m-1 __________________ 2012 SS, Magnuson supercharger, leathel racing night fury cam, ported throttle body, long tube headers,ACT twin disk clutch, BMR suspension, 620 RWHP 580 ftp 11.8 @121 1/4 mile time on 295/35/20 nitto nt555g2 tires

01-23-2020, 06:44 AM	#5
abshire1006 Drives: 2012 camaro ss Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Louisiana Posts: 35	I’m going to add a normally open solenoid valve with a t on each end with a line to bypass the solenoid valve with a valve to regulate the pressure that goes back to my Clutch, so I will hook the solenoid to a switch when I leave the line I will activate the switch and be able to dump the clutch and it will release slow, I’ll be able to control the flow and be more consistent with my launches. I’m having issues off the line. Blowing the tires off or bogging. So this way I will be consistent and can start bracket racing __________________ 2012 SS, Magnuson supercharger, leathel racing night fury cam, ported throttle body, long tube headers,ACT twin disk clutch, BMR suspension, 620 RWHP 580 ftp 11.8 @121 1/4 mile time on 295/35/20 nitto nt555g2 tires

02-05-2020, 06:36 PM	#6
Jayjellyfish212 Drives: 2014 1LE Join Date: Aug 2015 Location: Upstate NY Posts: 2,050 View My Garage	You should keep to -an4 that is equivalent to the 1/4 line that oem uses. If you don’t have a tick performance adjustable master that is all set with -4an then You will need to cut the stock line and add 2 adapters if you are still on stock master cylinder. But at some point you’ll still regardless still , This will require you to basically take a section out of the clutch hard line located around the brake booster. You are going to have to slip on a male 7/16-24 fitting at each end after cutting and then flare the lines. Once complete you can then use a fitting on each end that will be a 7/16-24 to -4an . From there you just swap the other fittings on the device to -4an and you’ll be all set. You can stick to-3an and they do sell The fittings that after you cut the hard line and flare etc like I mentioned you can put a 7/16-24 to -3an if you want but I myself feel this is not good since your basically downsizing your line area all around the device. I put some info up on this in the drag section thread we are all on to. I’ll post some pictures as soon as I can but either way you go it’s pretty straight forward stuff... just sounds complicated in writing lol __________________ Car mods: never enough!

01-22-2020, 10:04 AM	#2
NXTLEVL Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Twin Turbo LSX454 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 143 View My Garage	Literally just looked into this as I am adding a clutch release valve (launch control of sorts as well.) Take a look at the fittings in this link. These are what are on the end of the stock hose although they are crimped on so if you're changing things you'd need to run -an3 line to make them work. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ram-78310

01-22-2020, 10:55 AM	#4
NXTLEVL Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS Twin Turbo LSX454 Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Detroit, MI Posts: 143 View My Garage	If you're changing the line it doesn't really matter what size hose you use (-4an or -3an) as long as the push end of the fitting works for the car which both of the fittings we looked at do. I have to use -3an as my clutch release valve fitting as -3an. I'm curious. What are you trying to do exactly?