15" vs 17"....the debate for a "wanna be" fast street car - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-15-2020, 09:01 AM

Hello all. I'm debating doing a 15" conversion, or just doing midway 17". Suspension wise, the car has:

-BMR rear subframe bushings
-ZL1 diff with Hendrix engineering offset bushings
-ZL1 axles
-BMR Toe rods
-Carlyle Racing adjustable trailing arms
-BMR lowering springs

Engine wise, it has a mild cam, port/polished heads and support mods, dynod at 498 to the rear wheels. Hoping to finish up this rear end, then replace the clutch, then do a power adder. Goal is 1000 whp, give or take some.

So what's the verdict? Does a "fast" street car need to spend the extra money for a 15" conversion? Or would 17" be enough bang for the buck?

Vegas Bound · 02-15-2020, 10:55 AM

Depends on the track prep. In TX, I could get away with 17" due to axle breaking prep. In NV, I need the 15" 'cause they prep like crap.

It also depends on your power adder. I have a PD blower, instant torque. I blow off the tires in Vegas at the hit. A friend has a Procharger and has no trouble as torque builds later.

I guess what I am saying is there are a lot of variables.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-15-2020, 03:31 PM

Good point. I never thought about the prep. In reality, I have no clue when I'll be adding the power adder. But it would be nice to have the rear end built up and ready for it.

Vegas Bound · 02-15-2020, 04:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cornflakes'Camaro

Good point. I never thought about the prep. In reality, I have no clue when I'll be adding the power adder. But it would be nice to have the rear end built up and ready for it.

Do suspension, driveshaft, diff and axles before worrying about wheels and tires. I started with 18', then 17" and now getting 15".

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-15-2020, 07:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas Bound

Do suspension, driveshaft, diff and axles before worrying about wheels and tires. I started with 18', then 17" and now getting 15".

All those are done. Hence worrying about the wheels and tires

Vegas Bound · 02-15-2020, 08:02 PM

15" is going to cost about $4000: wheels, tires, brakes, suspension components, labor and alignment. Replacement tires will be cheaper than 17".

What power adder are you planning on? If I had it to do over, knowing what I know now, I would have gone with the Procharger over the PD blower.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-15-2020, 09:09 PM

Not looking to do the whole she-bang at once if I do go 15s. Maybe the lower control arms now, then the brakes and then the wheels and tires. I wont be paying for install, so I will be saving some money there.

I plan on pro charging. I dont want to be the guy who changes his setup over and over to keep chasing the next goal. Rather do it "right" the first time.

Greenhornet2 · 02-15-2020, 10:07 PM

Do you road course at all or live to carve and come in hard to corners? If so I'd keep your brakes and go with 17s.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-16-2020, 12:34 PM

Nope. Just looking for a good launching platform to launch the eventual goal whp of 1000

brick59 · 02-16-2020, 03:26 PM

I did the 17s and still blew tires off went to 15s and never launch better 1.32 60 ft.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-16-2020, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brick59

I did the 17s and still blew tires off went to 15s and never launch better 1.32 60 ft.

That's great to know. It's that kind of information I'm looking for (in addition to the rest of these responses as well). What whp were you pushing?

brick59 · 02-17-2020, 02:16 PM

It made 740 hp on a mustang dyno which everyone says reads low. Wallace Racing calculator says at my car weight of 4500 lbs and et of 9.84 its making 933 hp.

Cornflakes'Camaro · 02-17-2020, 02:51 PM

Brick, I'm starting to lean towards doing 17s, just because I'll only be pushing 500 whp for at least the next year or 2. Did you have to do anything to put 17" rear wheels on your car? I saw you had the control arms for sale...are those a must? If so, what's the benefit of adjustable over non-adjustable?

brick59 · 02-17-2020, 03:49 PM

The non adjustable is for lowered cars I believe if you go to there web site it explains what each one is for, theres a link on here what's needed to run 17s on our cars i'll post it if I can find it. I have more parts to sell I need to get them on here, I have 17in Welds with M/T tires to sell but dont really want to ship those.

02-15-2020, 09:01 AM	#1
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	15" vs 17"....the debate for a "wanna be" fast street car Hello all. I'm debating doing a 15" conversion, or just doing midway 17". Suspension wise, the car has: -BMR rear subframe bushings -ZL1 diff with Hendrix engineering offset bushings -ZL1 axles -BMR Toe rods -Carlyle Racing adjustable trailing arms -BMR lowering springs Engine wise, it has a mild cam, port/polished heads and support mods, dynod at 498 to the rear wheels. Hoping to finish up this rear end, then replace the clutch, then do a power adder. Goal is 1000 whp, give or take some. So what's the verdict? Does a "fast" street car need to spend the extra money for a 15" conversion? Or would 17" be enough bang for the buck? __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

02-15-2020, 03:31 PM	#3
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	Good point. I never thought about the prep. In reality, I have no clue when I'll be adding the power adder. But it would be nice to have the rear end built up and ready for it. __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

02-15-2020, 09:09 PM	#7
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	Not looking to do the whole she-bang at once if I do go 15s. Maybe the lower control arms now, then the brakes and then the wheels and tires. I wont be paying for install, so I will be saving some money there. I plan on pro charging. I dont want to be the guy who changes his setup over and over to keep chasing the next goal. Rather do it "right" the first time. __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

02-15-2020, 10:07 PM	#8
Greenhornet2 Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS LS3 Whipple Join Date: May 2019 Location: Connecticut Posts: 1,925	Do you road course at all or live to carve and come in hard to corners? If so I'd keep your brakes and go with 17s. __________________ Whipple 2.9 CAI ID1050x injectors ZL1 Pump JRE FPCM JMS Voltage booster JRE Rough Idle blower cam BTR .660 springs CHE trunnion kit 1 7/8 Speed Engineering Borla Atak JRE scoop 1.5" lowering springs BMR trailing arms and toe links Cradle inserts 704WHP 603WTQ 93 octane

02-16-2020, 12:34 PM	#9
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	Nope. Just looking for a good launching platform to launch the eventual goal whp of 1000 __________________ Tick Performance Custom Cam w/ support mods/BBK LT Headers w/ midpipes/Straight Exhaust/Airaid Cold Air Intake/ZL1 Driveshaft/ZL1 Differential/Hendrix Engineering Offset Bushings/ZL1 Axles/BMR Rear Subframe Bushings/BMR Toe Rods/Carlyle Racing 15" Conversion/Jannetty Winsheild Bottle Scoop/Forgestar 15x10 Beadlocks wrapped in Mickey Thompson Radial Pros

02-15-2020, 10:55 AM	#2
Vegas Bound Account Suspended Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Hospitality State Posts: 2,558	Depends on the track prep. In TX, I could get away with 17" due to axle breaking prep. In NV, I need the 15" 'cause they prep like crap. It also depends on your power adder. I have a PD blower, instant torque. I blow off the tires in Vegas at the hit. A friend has a Procharger and has no trouble as torque builds later. I guess what I am saying is there are a lot of variables.

02-15-2020, 08:02 PM	#6
Vegas Bound Account Suspended Drives: 2013 Sparkly Red One Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Hospitality State Posts: 2,558	15" is going to cost about $4000: wheels, tires, brakes, suspension components, labor and alignment. Replacement tires will be cheaper than 17". What power adder are you planning on? If I had it to do over, knowing what I know now, I would have gone with the Procharger over the PD blower.

02-16-2020, 03:26 PM	#10
brick59 Sucker Punch Drives: 2013 Black ZL1, 2007 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 275	I did the 17s and still blew tires off went to 15s and never launch better 1.32 60 ft. __________________ 427 Dart SHP Pro LS Block, Callies Magnum Crank, Callies Ultra I Beam Rods, Diamond Pistons, AGP twin Turbos 6865, Mast heads, Cam Motion LLR cam, Morel tie bar lifters, Crower roller rockers, NW 103MM TB, ID2600 XDS, Fore Triple, DSX, E85, ARH Turbo Headers, Corsa, Jakes stage 5 4L80, Circle D, RPM Roll Bar, BMR, Carlyle Racing 15" conversion kit.

02-17-2020, 02:16 PM	#12
brick59 Sucker Punch Drives: 2013 Black ZL1, 2007 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 275	It made 740 hp on a mustang dyno which everyone says reads low. Wallace Racing calculator says at my car weight of 4500 lbs and et of 9.84 its making 933 hp. __________________ 427 Dart SHP Pro LS Block, Callies Magnum Crank, Callies Ultra I Beam Rods, Diamond Pistons, AGP twin Turbos 6865, Mast heads, Cam Motion LLR cam, Morel tie bar lifters, Crower roller rockers, NW 103MM TB, ID2600 XDS, Fore Triple, DSX, E85, ARH Turbo Headers, Corsa, Jakes stage 5 4L80, Circle D, RPM Roll Bar, BMR, Carlyle Racing 15" conversion kit.

02-17-2020, 02:51 PM	#13
Cornflakes'Camaro Counting down the days... Drives: Black 2011 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Fort Walton Beach, Fl Posts: 637 View My Garage	Brick, I'm starting to lean towards doing 17s, just because I'll only be pushing 500 whp for at least the next year or 2. Did you have to do anything to put 17" rear wheels on your car? I saw you had the control arms for sale...are those a must? If so, what's the benefit of adjustable over non-adjustable?

02-17-2020, 03:49 PM	#14
brick59 Sucker Punch Drives: 2013 Black ZL1, 2007 Silverado LTZ Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: N.E. Ohio Posts: 275	The non adjustable is for lowered cars I believe if you go to there web site it explains what each one is for, theres a link on here what's needed to run 17s on our cars i'll post it if I can find it. I have more parts to sell I need to get them on here, I have 17in Welds with M/T tires to sell but dont really want to ship those. __________________ 427 Dart SHP Pro LS Block, Callies Magnum Crank, Callies Ultra I Beam Rods, Diamond Pistons, AGP twin Turbos 6865, Mast heads, Cam Motion LLR cam, Morel tie bar lifters, Crower roller rockers, NW 103MM TB, ID2600 XDS, Fore Triple, DSX, E85, ARH Turbo Headers, Corsa, Jakes stage 5 4L80, Circle D, RPM Roll Bar, BMR, Carlyle Racing 15" conversion kit.