Pre polish/wax taping?

[TheVENOM]

I will be using my Jumkmans kit this weekend and was wondering what i should be taping off before i get started.

Can I use the PC on the plastic front bumper? and the painted hood trim?
Car is a week old shoud i strip it down with palmolive then clay and start fresh?
First time polishing so bare with me.

[CamaroDreams07]

I'd strip it, then clay then polish. Never know if the dealer slapped on any wax.

You can use the PC on any part that is painted on this car. Just avoid the black plastic (shark fin, rear diffuser, front grilles). If you get some on it, no big deal. Wipe off quickly and you'll never know. If it dries, use some Adam's All Purpose Cleaner, or I've heard peanut butter will take off dried polish/wax from plastic trim. This car is so easy to polish and wax I don't even tape it off anymore. You really have to be careless to hit the trim, it's all straight lines!

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by CamaroDreams07

I'd strip it, then clay then polish. Never know if the dealer slapped on any wax.

You can use the PC on any part that is painted on this car. Just avoid the black plastic (shark fin, rear diffuser, front grilles). If you get some on it, no big deal. Wipe off quickly and you'll never know. If it dries, use some Adam's All Purpose Cleaner, or I've heard peanut butter will take off dried polish/wax from plastic trim. This car is so easy to polish and wax I don't even tape it off anymore. You really have to be careless to hit the trim, it's all straight lines!

I agree. I will also add that you should avoid at all cost any sharp edges (emblems). Hit a sharp edge one time and it can destroy your pad. That would suck halfway through you detail. Also, use Dawn, not Palmolive to strip the paint. The peanut butter theory is false so don't waste your time with that. It is the peanut oil that removes old polish not peanut butter. That's a good waste of peanut oil too. APC work just fine.

You can tape up the seams to keep stuff out of them if you like. I don't, but then I'm pretty lazy.

[TheVENOM]

Thanks for all the advice. I'm excited to start but also a bit hesitant.
Few more questions:
On the hood were it rises up in the middle, can I use the pc there? Or should I do the edges by hand?
Also around the sides of the fender.I'm worried that I will burn something off on the edges.
Lastly how about the spolier? And should I worry about any seams? Or just over them?

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by TheVENOM

Thanks for all the advice. I'm excited to start but also a bit hesitant.
Few more questions:
On the hood were it rises up in the middle, can I use the pc there? Or should I do the edges by hand?
Also around the sides of the fender.I'm worried that I will burn something off on the edges.
Lastly how about the spolier? And should I worry about any seams? Or just over them?

First off, you ain't gonna burn anything with the PC and Adam's Polishes. Get that out of your mind now. It is a non-factor. You can use the PC anywhere that no decals are present. Thus, you have no need for concern.

[2LTRS]

Originally Posted by TheVENOM

Thanks for all the advice. I'm excited to start but also a bit hesitant.
Few more questions:
On the hood were it rises up in the middle, can I use the pc there? Or should I do the edges by hand?
Also around the sides of the fender.I'm worried that I will burn something off on the edges.
Lastly how about the spolier? And should I worry about any seams? Or just over them?

Don't worry about burning paint with the PC; its pretty much impossible. Always start with the least invasive method - white pad + FMP, if thats not getting the results you want, step up to a orange pad + SHR. You should have no reason to use a yellow pad at all.

I use the big pads to buff the entire car except for the tight corners in the front bumper and rear bumper - I use the 4" spot buffing pads in the tight areas.

Again - taping is entirely up to you, I use tape more for testing than anything else. Like AJ said - stay away from the sharp emblems or you'll find yourself ordering up some new pads.

We're always here to help - don't hesitate to ask questions if your not sure about something.

[TheVENOM]

Awesome just what I wanted to hear.
Thanks for all the help i really appreciate it! I'll let you know how it goes.

[2LTRS]

Please do! Post pics!

[gatorlover]

Need some clarification if possible guys.
The term Buff. Are we talking about after waxing to get a nice shine? or to remove wax?
Should I use the pc to apply wax and also to remove it? Or should that be done by hand?

Thanks guys.....I'm learning.....

[Junkman2008]

Originally Posted by gatorlover

Need some clarification if possible guys.
The term Buff. Are we talking about after waxing to get a nice shine? or to remove wax?
Should I use the pc to apply wax and also to remove it? Or should that be done by hand?

Thanks guys.....I'm learning.....

Often in these threads when you see the term "buff", it means using the machine (unlike when you buff out the shine on a pair of leather boots). As for using the PC to apply wax, it depends on the wax you use. The Adam's Machine Superwax is made to be applied by the PC. I choose to wipe it off by hand, however, some folks will wrap a microfiber towel around the buffing pad and remove the wax that way. That part is a preference thing.