What makes the clutch stick?

[RipperFox]

I have searched and read alot about the clutch sticking under hard acceleration.

What I am looking for is:

1. Theories as to why it is sticking under these conditions, and not under "less spirited" driving (aka granny mode)
2. Theories of repair for the the percieved problem.

[Camaro21]

I had this problem with my stock clutch too.. I was told that it was the heat from the fluid causing the clutch pedal to stick to the floor (I only noticed this when I was drag racing and slipping the clutch to get a good launch). I have since replaced my clutch with the LPE ZR-1 Clutch and no longer have this problem... Andy at ADM Performance installed mine !!

[SC2150]

The entire hydraulic system GM has has used since the mid 90's is prone to this issue...and one of the main causes is the far to small resivoir so yes, increasing it is a plus....but only a small part of what is needed. The slaves themselves do allow a small amount of the super fine clutch dust into the system everytime the clutch pedal is depressed and the throwout bearing extends and returns.

The other issue is the heat. The line from the master to the slave runs near the exhaust and is constantly subject to heat that accelerates the breakdown of the fluid.

The system I designed (don't have the funds to bring to market yet) has a one qt finned alum remote resivoir, a one way self bleeding checkvalve (the same one NASCAR uses in its brake systems) that constantly recirculates the fluid every time the pedal is depressed, and a replaceable filter so the master & slave constantly have clean, cool, fluid and this eliminates the pedal sticking to the floor issue.

I made this system for the road racers and it works awesome, but like so many products I have designed it sits waiting for an angel investor to back the release to the public.

[RipperFox]

To clairify:

At the exact second that the clutch is still down on the floor, and my foot is on the gas, and the thought in my head is "oh shit, whats up with that!!!"

What is causing that turd to stay on the floor?
1. plugged line?
2. vibration?
3. "the man" via OnStar?

The reason I state it this way is: The clutch was fine 1 mile before and 1 mile later.

[SC2150]

The hydraulic system has very close tolerances. The master cylinder is acuated when you depress the clutch pedal, and this forces fluid under pressure through a narrow braded line to the slave cylinder, that then extends from the pressurized fluid the throw-out bearing that then pushes against the pressure plate fingers allowing the clamping force to release and the clutch disc to free-wheel. What happens is (feel some clutch/brake fluid) the fluid is a very thin viscosity as it has to work around some very tight clearances and when it gets dirty (the clutch & pressure plate are constantly shedding very fine dust as they wear and even though the slave has both a dust boot and a very good seal, some gets pulled into the sytem and causes sludge) the fluid cannot release back into the master resivoir quick enough and the pedal will stay on the floor. It usually will release as the sludge that caused the blockage is forced back through and will the operate normally until it happens again.

This is most common during hard fast shifts/clutch operation and is usually not an issue when driving normal.

[RipperFox]

Bravo!!! Very good. Informative for me.

[RipperFox]

Did it again!!!!

Clutch on the floor, rev it up a little but tapping the gas a couple of times.
Start to let the clutch out quickly (about as fast as you would to spin the tires a little, but regain traction pretty quick, and haul some azz)
Clutch stops about 1/3 of the way up, and clutch smokes and stinks real quick.

Help!! Asking for a fix, or should I go to the dealer with this "other than normal" driving technique?

I have had, and treated manual cars/trucks like this all my life. (45 yrs) and never have I had a car do this. My F150 6cyl with 310K does better than this under load.

Both times I was trying to change lanes in crappy traffic, and get from behind a dofus driver, and when no one would let me get over. And when I needed the power/speed, she let me down.

[Russell James]

You need a new clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, some bolts....

Then on the new clutch, don't slip it. The heat kills it. Once the fluid is boiled and the clutch smoked, it's pretty much done. Tall wheels, tall gearing, tons of tq, mediocre stock clutch and hydraulics = very easy to smoke the clutch.

Less RPM, quicker clutch releases. With these wheels and gearing, not a great burnout car if you want the clutch to last.

[RipperFox]

Clutch recommendations? Was looking on Jegs. Centerline and Fidanza were only thing for 5th gen.

Is the Slave cylinder really necessary?

And THANKS FOR THE HELP.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Can i ask do you change the fluid often? like ones a month, I now on a members car that changed his without driving hard on the car after only 5 months and 3,000 MI it was red, There is a lot of heat in the clutch get use to changing the fluid often. IMO

[RipperFox]

5K, not changed yet. Yet.

Havent driven it in 4 days. Kinda pissed with it, and I've driving the Vampire Truck.

[Nomad]

Originally Posted by RipperFox

5K, not changed yet. Yet.

Havent driven it in 4 days. Kinda pissed with it, and I've driving the Vampire Truck.

I think 2SSRS is talking about my Camaro. I installed the separate clutch fluid reservoir about a month ago. I "let the big dog eat" once in a while but I don't do burnouts, track or race the car as it's my DD. When I changed the fluid in the clutch/brake reservoir, it was dark red. I never had any issues with my clutch prior to the installation but I've already replaced the fluid in the clutch reservoir as it was dark red again (some was left over in the system as I didn't bleed the clutch fluid but it was definitely some new contamination). The fluid in the brake reservoir looked like I had poured it from the can!

Since you don't have the separate reservoirs, I recommend keeping an eye on the fluid as it's not only for your clutch but your brakes also. It's even cheaper than an oil change and, IMO, just as important.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by Nomad

I think 2SSRS is talking about my Camaro. I installed the separate clutch fluid reservoir about a month ago. I "let the big dog eat" once in a while but I don't do burnouts, track or race the car as it's my DD. When I changed the fluid in the clutch/brake reservoir, it was dark red. I never had any issues with my clutch prior to the installation but I've already replaced the fluid in the clutch reservoir as it was dark red again (some was left over in the system as I didn't bleed the clutch fluid but it was definitely some new contamination). The fluid in the brake reservoir looked like I had poured it from the can!

Since you don't have the separate reservoirs, I recommend keeping an eye on the fluid as it's not only for your clutch but your brakes also. It's even cheaper than an oil change and, IMO, just as important.