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Old 02-18-2012, 01:18 PM   #1
Soundplus
 
Drives: 2012 Silver Ice SS2 RS
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removing the headliner for sound deadening.

After searching for hours and not coming up with a suitable answer. I decided to take on the task of removing the headliner so I could put some sound deadening material on it. And it made such a huge difference I thought I would post a how to for others. SO her it goes.

FIRST..
YOU will not be able to remove the headliner from the car. you can if you remove the windshield. or bend it. but bending it might damage it. what I did was just recline the seats back and let it stay in the car.

SECOND..
Chevy uses 5 different types of retaining clips in this car. well 4 that I have found so far. These are as follows
Spring Tension clip or wedge clip. these are clips that look like a wedge and normally have a metal clip on them that snaps into place to hold things tight.
The push in . these are all plastic pins that look like screws. you just push them into the hole and the fins on the shaft hold things in place.
The strap clip. this is a push in type clip that has a strap attached to it. this allows the item being held in place to simple hang there after is has been released.
The Anchor clip. this is a plastic pin that looks like an anchor or an arrow with its 2 barbs at the end. this has a grappling effect when you push it in place.
And the sleeve pins. these are a two piece pin. the first part is a the sleeve that you place in the hole. the second part is the pin that you then push into the sleeve causing the end of the sleeve to expand .

On this thread we will be dealing with the tension, push in, and the strap clips.

Items you will need.
t-15 torc
t-50 torc
#2 Phillips screwdriver
#1 flat head screw driver
7mm 8mm and 10mm socket
plastic pry tool
16oz curved claw hammer. (regular hammer)
razor knife
straight edge
2 old sheets

Materials
3 sheets of sound deadening material. 18" x 32" I used Dynamat Extreme
1 can of spray glue I used 3M Super 77


this is the right way to do it. if you want to do the faster way (this involves taking chances of damaging something) skip to step 7.

Step 1.
Removal of the back seat. Start with the bench. This is held in by two large tension clips on the front and two steel loop holders on the back. grab the bench by the front and pull the front up. don't worry these wedge clips are large and it takes a little force. once the front is loose, tilt the seat towards the back of the seat and the hooks will rotate out of the loops allowing you to pull the whole seat up and out of the car...

Next is the back. this is held in my two capture latches. these are similar to a car door lock in that once the post slides into the socket the spring loaded hook drops down to capture the post. fold the seat down and press the hook back, once the hook is clear of the post rotate the seat so that the narrow side of the post can slide out of the slot in the socket.
Repeat for the other side and remove the back from the car.
***TIP*** This will be easier with a second person but can be done solo. the BIGGEST thing you have to look out for is the plastic bushing in the socket. If this bushing is not seated properly it will rotate with the post and you wont be able to slide the post out of the socket.

Step 2.
Removing the door runners. these are held in by 5 tension clips. Starting at the back seat gently pry up on the runner using the pry tool until you get all 5 clips to pop loose.
***TIP*** once you get the first clip loose you can use your fingers to get under and pop the rest.

Step 3.
Removal of the side panels. these are held in with 8 tension clips. Starting at the bottom gently pull the panel away from the car body. work your way up until you get all the clips to release. Pull the bottom out first to allow the guide post to slip out of the alignment holes.

Step 4.
Removal of the rear pillar cover. These are held in by 1 tension clip and 1 strap clip. Using the pry tool gently pry at the top of the cover where it meets the headliner. once it pops loose you will be able to pop the tension clip on the rear of the cover. Remember the strap clip will allow the cover to hang. IF you want to remove the cover simply take a small flat head screwdriver and push in on the metal tab on the strap where it meets the car. you will have to push it in once to get it passed the edge of the grove as you start to slide it out the metal tab will grab the edge of the hole where the pin comes threw so you will have to do it again there.
***TIP*** this can also be done by hand with out use of the pry tool just be cautious that you don't crush or deform the headliner.

Step 5.
Removing the rear speaker deck. This is help in place by 4 push in at the front lip, 4 loop hooks (plastic) at the back of the deck near the glass , and 4 tension clips in the center of the deck. First thing is to UN-clip the plug for the rear brake light. this plug is located on the passenger side of the car near the top of the seat. Using the pry tool gently pry the 4 push in pins out of the panel. next use your hand to get under the panel and pop the tension clips loose, once they are all lose lift up on the front of the panel to release the hooks in the back and slide the panel out. You may need to flex the back corners to get it out.
***TIP*** this is easier with a second person in the truck helping you to release the tension clips.
***TIP*** HERE is where I started using the hammer. once i got the push in clips up a little with the pry tool I then took the claw end of the hammer and grabbed on to the push in clip. then I gently started pulling on the pin making sure to wiggle it as I pulled. DO NOT USE the hammer like you are pulling a nail. this is just a finger saver tip.. the hammer gives you more leverage and downward force.

Step 6.
Center pillar removal..This is held in place by two 7mm screws, a T-50 torc, and and two tension clips. Pop up the cover on the seat belt post and remove that bolt using the T-50 torc. next using the pry tool pop the cover on the air bag tag. ( THIS will not set off your air bag) this is located just about the seat belt post. to pop this cover pry at the back side of the tag and pull it towards the door. once this is open remove the 7mm screw. then at the rear on the back deck you will see another 7mm screw. remove this and then you should be able to pull this out and release the 2 tension clips.
***TIP*** there is no need to remove this just let it hang

Step 7.
Remove the visors . these are held on by two T-15 screws.
Once the visor is out then remove the secondary support which is also held on by a single T-15 screw.
***TIP*** leave the visor clipped to the secondary support when taking out the screws.

Step 8.
Remove the center command unit. The CCU is held in place by four tension clips and two Phillips head screws. Start by using the pry tool to pop out the light cover. gently pry at the rear of the lens. Next using the pry tool on the front of the light bezel gently pry towards yourself and the bezel will pop out. There will be two Philips head screws hiding behind that bezel that will need to be removed. Once they are out you can start prying down on the CCU. Once you have it hanging down it you your choice to remove it all the way or just let it hang.

Step 9.
Removal of the front pillar. This is held in place by a strap clip and a tension clip. Gently pull the pillar cover downwards until the pin releases from the strap.
***TIP*** allow this to just hang, there is no need to remove it

Step 10.
Removal of the coat hooks. This is held in place by an 8mm screw hidden behind the cover plate on the hook itself. Using your fingernail get a little gap in the cover from the hook. then using the small flat screw driver insert it in from the side in the gap you just made. DO NOT PULL down on this. simply turn the screw driver and allow it to pop the cover for you. then remove the 8mm screw.
***TIPS*** using to much force or prying straight down on the cover could result in the cover breaking free from the hook.

Step 11.
Removal of the head liner. At this point the only thing holding the liner in place is the two push in clips at the rear of the head liner, the rubber door gaskets, and maybe a little hot glue at the front of the head liner where it was stuck to my wiring bundle. Using your fingers grab the push in clips and pull them downward. make sure you wiggle them to make it easy. Here is where I used that hammer again.. with those last 2 clips out of the way the head liner is ready to come down. Starting at the rear, gently start pulling the liner down and away from the sides of the car. make sure you keep an eye on the door gaskets as to not pull them down. work your way to the from. where you will more then likely have to separate the liner from anything the glue might have it stuck too.
***TIPS*** What I did was recline the front seats all the way back. this allowed me to lower the head liner and give me great access to the roof.

Step 12.
installing your sound deadening material. If you use what I did there is not much cutting at all. the areas over the driver and passenger are full pieces, and the area over the back seat can be done in with one piece as well . you just need to cut it in half. (the long way)
THIS is where the old sheets come in to play. place the old sheets over everything you can . the dash board the head liner the seats anything and everything. this will keep you from getting spray glue over areas that you don't want to mess up.. Hit the roof with the spray glue and give it a few minutes to get tacky. then peel and stick your sound deadening material.
***TIPS*** you do not have to use spray glue but I HIGHLY recommend it. The roof of the car will take the most direct heat. the last thing you want is for the dynamat to fall down because of heat.

I will try and post some pics and the video but if I can't get them on here you can check out my pictures on my profile.
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:08 PM   #2
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And the purpose of this is?
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Old 02-18-2012, 02:33 PM   #3
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And the purpose of this is?
installing sound deadening gets rid of road noise. Well doesn't "get rid of it" so much as blocks it out. Never seen someone do it to the roof though.

Great write up OP
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:14 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by stieger View Post
installing sound deadening gets rid of road noise. Well doesn't "get rid of it" so much as blocks it out. Never seen someone do it to the roof though.

Great write up OP
I know what sound deadening is and what it does. I guess I should have asked why install it on the roof.
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:22 PM   #5
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tap on your roof .. it sounds like a symbol.. if you have a sub in your car that roof will vibrate / causing unwanted sound. this helps to prevent it. tap on my roof now and it sounds like your tapping on a bucket filled with water.

and yes it helps to keep road noise transmitting into the car down.
AND it helps to keep the sound of your music from going outside as well. setting of the neighbors car alarms when you ride past tends to piss them off..

AND I am not 100% sure but I think it does help with transmission of heat into the car from the roof. like insulation for the roof.

in theory. you should be able to stand outside the car and barely hear the music. but when you open the door .. then you should not be able to hear the guy next to you talking.

me personally.. i hate hearing a car go by that rattles so much you can't even figure out what song he is playing on the radio.
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:24 PM   #6
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I know what sound deadening is and what it does. I guess I should have asked why install it on the roof.
Oh sorry, yea no idea why he did it to the roof. But serious props to the OP for doing it and making a DIY
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Old 02-18-2012, 03:26 PM   #7
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Ever sat in one of the Gen5 Camaro's when it is raining? It sounds like someone is dropping bb's or small marbles on the roof when the rain is coming down. The early 2005-2009 Mustangs had the same issue, but it seems Ford addressed it in the 2010-up cars.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:31 PM   #8
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One other thing I forgot to mention and this deals with the re-install. IN the CCU is the mic for your onstar/BT . Make sure you have the open side of the mic facing down and clipped in where the opening is.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:52 PM   #9
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My next project is sound proofing the roof. Got the entire car done with the exception of the roof.
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:56 PM   #10
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1 small tip, never use a asphalt base type on roof, they have been known to release on high temps ..imo..use butyl base..
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:09 AM   #11
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SPRAY GLUE is your friend.. and yes Asphalt/tar products will get soft and peel away with high heat. like on your roof. as a general rule I use spray glue on any surface where gravity will be pulling it down.. E roof. upper part of the fender wells. AND the doors. just because I don't want any problems with my windows.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:45 AM   #12
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Great write up. I removed my headliner. I wanted to change from gray to black. As an FYI. The headliner will come out of car without damage and without windshield removal. Take passenger seat out, move gear shift towards rear of car and it will go out passenger door on an angle. Took some time but it did in fact work.
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Old 02-19-2012, 12:31 PM   #13
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Great write up. I removed my headliner. I wanted to change from gray to black. As an FYI. The headliner will come out of car without damage and without windshield removal. Take passenger seat out, move gear shift towards rear of car and it will go out passenger door on an angle. Took some time but it did in fact work.

DAMN I wish I would have known.. that would hav made it a snap..
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Old 02-19-2012, 01:10 PM   #14
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Great write up. I removed my headliner. I wanted to change from gray to black. As an FYI. The headliner will come out of car without damage and without windshield removal. Take passenger seat out, move gear shift towards rear of car and it will go out passenger door on an angle. Took some time but it did in fact work.
Great tip
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