02-29-2012, 04:56 PM | #1 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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Starting to sound like a dump truck
Hi and thanks for checking out my thread. Bought my 2010 2SS w/ 20k miles a few months ago. Absolutely live driving the car, but sometimes shifting in the lower gears (2nd/3rd) I would often hear clatter which just didn't sit right with me.
Car now has 22k and starting today shifting in and out of 2nd sounds like what a dump truck I use to drive sounded like. From the searches I have done, it appears it could be as simple as changing the fluids so I did purchase some AMSOIL transmission and diff fluid (I've been meaning to change the diff anyways). My question is what else this could be and what is causing it? I don't drive hard 99% of the time and have never tried doing a burnout or the like. Thanks! |
03-01-2012, 06:44 AM | #2 |
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Let's us know what you find
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03-01-2012, 04:56 PM | #3 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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03-02-2012, 05:05 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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After some more driving today, it's just not a second gear noise. The noise is louder shifting through the lower gears, but I heard some clatter shifting 4th to 5th at 28mph.
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03-03-2012, 07:22 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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Been reading through threads on this issue all morning and come to the conclusion there is no conclusion. Seems to be different solutions or none at all when it comes to what appears to be the same problem I'm describing.
Seems I can avoid the rattle noise if I shift at a slightly higher rpm than what I am use to driving. Is this being caused because I am shifting too low? Also, I was always taught to ride the clutch (depress clutch all the way) while coasting down hills or coming to a stop. Am I wrong and is this doing damage? |
03-04-2012, 07:49 AM | #6 |
Drives: Bentley Continental GT. Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Boston, Lincolnshire, England
Posts: 1,022
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If you're changing from 4th to 5th at 28mph, you are changing way too early. Even in my V6 I don't change from 2nd to 3rd until I'm at around 30mph; i.e. second in all our towns and villages, and have barely used 6th unless I'm on motorways.
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03-04-2012, 08:09 AM | #7 | |
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But seriously, that's really early to be in 4th. I do most of my gear changes between 2,000 and 3,000 RPM for everyday driving. I realize fuel is much more expensive over there so maybe shifting at 1,500-2,500 RPM and/or skipping from 1st to 3rd to 5th would be better.
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2012 - Present: 2011 CTS-V Sedan, A6, Airaid, Zmax TB and Tune by R.P.M. = 535 hp/503 lb-ft.
2009 - 2012: 2010 2SS RS IBM M6, MGW Shifter, BMR Trailing Arms/Tunnel Brace, Roto-Fab CAI, VMAX Ported TB, Kooks 6511-Complete (Headers, X-Pipe, Mufflers), dyno tuned by R.P.M. = 415 hp/412 lb-ft. "Not giving a f*^k is truly the greatest luxury, and no luxury car gives fewer f*^k's than a CTS-V." - Matt Hardigree |
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03-04-2012, 08:23 AM | #8 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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You're right, I definitely need to shift later. I usually don't shift that early, but I do usually drive on 5th through the 30 mph towns and had been driving conservatively lately without issue. I drove more aggressively today and the drive was great.
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03-04-2012, 08:26 AM | #9 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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Quote:
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03-04-2012, 08:32 AM | #10 | ||
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have you checked your driveshaft?
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03-04-2012, 08:48 AM | #11 | |
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That said, downshifting is much more work than upshifting simply because your right foot is hopping back and forth between the accelerator and brake between every gear change (using the accelerator to match RPM when dropping to a lower gear). You could always use the clutch to absorb the RPM difference but that's extra wear on the clutch. I live in the suburbs and I know the roads well. I have a bad habit of putting the car in neutral and coasting down long slow hills. I tell myself every time that this isn't good technique" but too often laziness wins out and I coast. But I don't hold the clutch in for more than 3-5 seconds at a time. I'll put it in neutral at red-lights or while waiting for traffic to clear before pulling out onto the road. Ultimately, brakes are cheaper/easier to replace than the clutch so I go pretty easy on my clutch during day-to-day driving.
__________________
2012 - Present: 2011 CTS-V Sedan, A6, Airaid, Zmax TB and Tune by R.P.M. = 535 hp/503 lb-ft.
2009 - 2012: 2010 2SS RS IBM M6, MGW Shifter, BMR Trailing Arms/Tunnel Brace, Roto-Fab CAI, VMAX Ported TB, Kooks 6511-Complete (Headers, X-Pipe, Mufflers), dyno tuned by R.P.M. = 415 hp/412 lb-ft. "Not giving a f*^k is truly the greatest luxury, and no luxury car gives fewer f*^k's than a CTS-V." - Matt Hardigree |
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03-04-2012, 11:40 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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03-04-2012, 11:46 AM | #13 | |
Drives: 2010 2SS Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: England
Posts: 163
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03-04-2012, 11:57 AM | #14 | ||
Truth Enforcer
Drives: anything I can get my hands on Join Date: Sep 2006
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looseness or the carrier bearing being shot
see posts 83 and 84 in this thread http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...bearing&page=3 and check the vid in this one too http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showpo...&postcount=166
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