Looking at HVLP spray guns, need some advice.

[Synergy1911]

For a while I have wanted to learn auto body work and painting. Now I have a need to start with some small projects on the Camaro, parts under the hood, eventually front splitter etc... I would like to be able repaint my motorcycle track bodywork for practice. I have some wood projects coming up that i would like to use it on also. My airless is just too big for cabinet work.

I have no idea where to start when it comes to spray guns. I don't want Harbor Freight junk, but don't need a 600 buck professional Iwata.

Here in CA is getting harder and harder to buy solvent based. Most everything is now water based. Looking for a gun/tips that would be versatile.

[racer778]

I've got to tell ya if your'e doing professional work then a Binks gun or SATA is the way to go. other than that, there is nothng wrong with the harbor freight guns as quite a few of us use them as primer guns and detailing. I've painted with them and they are not that bad. plus 35 -80 for a harbor freight HVLP compared to 300-600 for any of the other ones get you thinking.

[Mr Twisty]

Do you have good clean, dry air? That's number one.

[IDEALG]

Listen I've been painting and doing bodywork for a long time two major factors are clean dry air to your gun and always keep your gun clean at all times. When your done spraying and its time to clean your gun always and i stress always take your gun completely apart and clean every piece. You dont want any paint left in there or it will screw you the next time you use it. I use a sata for most bases, i have a special iwata for high metallic bases, iwata for primer, and an iwata just for clear coating. If your just starting out i suggest you buy a cheaper gun like a "sharp" it will still spray beautifully and wont kill your pocket like sata or iwata. Any questions just ask.

[kylenewman]

I like my harbor freight cheapies for spraying basic projects like engine covers, fuse box covers, interior pieces etc. I also have used them to do paint work on my Denali and repainting of a dump body on a dump truck.

It's great to get yOur feet wet and with a couPon as cheap as 15-20$. Best part is there basically disposable when im done spraying I just run thinner through it until it runs clear. If they get junked up I toss them.

[Whiteside Customs]

We use SATA here at the shop. Generally you need a primer gun, a base gun, and a separate clear gun. I have used Iwata's in the past and will probably move over to those when it's time to replace my SATA's. I really love the way Iwata lays down metallic bases.

[IDEALG]

Originally Posted by Whiteside Customs

We use SATA here at the shop. Generally you need a primer gun, a base gun, and a separate clear gun. I have used Iwata's in the past and will probably move over to those when it's time to replace my SATA's. I really love the way Iwata lays down metallic bases.

If you ever use a W-400 Iwata for shooting clear you'll never go back to a Sata ever again. I use my Sata for bases only , my Iwata W-400 uses only 10 -15psi and it comes out like glass everytime. you just have to get use to it compared to the Sata because you have to move slower when using the Iwata.

[RingoRaintree]

I've used my 2 piece Devilbiss Starting Line set, (about $150 at Eastwood or TPI or other dealers) on 2 vehicles. Granted, they weren't metallics or pearls or candies, just plain 2 stage paint from Summit Racing, but with careful set up they did a fine job. Good, mid range guns between the Harbor freight stuff and the professional guns IMO.

[Ivan @ Southwest Speed]

Of all my guns....an old as dirt Satajet 95 is the best one that I got. Had it for almost 18 years.

I've stepped up to all sorts of different Sata's but that one shoots the most consistent.

Worth every penny then, and even more now.
Ivan