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Old 04-13-2012, 08:37 AM   #1
BMR guy

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Talking BMR 1.43 Sixty Foot Time Suspension Video

We went to the track a few weeks ago for testing and laid down some pretty good 60 ft/times. The GoPro's were mounted so we could help analyze what the suspension was doing at launch. After looking them over I thought it would be an interesting video for you guys to see. As you can see, there is very little rotational spindle movement which means our parts are doing there job.

A little more power and some custom alignment settings dropped a tenth of a second in our 60 ft/times. We had absolutely zero wheelspin with the car setup this way, now all we need is more power...

In this next video, watch the spindle as the car accelerates and brakes. This video was taken when the car was bone stock and you can see how bad the spindle counter-rotates during acceleration and braking. in fact, the spindle moves all over the place, independent of the suspension links. This just goes to show what rigid suspension links and low-deflection bushings can do for you.

Last edited by BMR guy; 04-13-2012 at 03:37 PM.
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Old 04-13-2012, 09:39 AM   #2

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Wow, that stock suspension is scary.

So can you list the parts necessary to achieve what the first video showed?
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:02 AM   #3
BMR guy

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You can remove 75%-90% (your amount of power will vary this percentage) of the spindle movement with the following products:

TCA026 - Trailing Arms
TR002 - Toe Rods
BK006 - Outer Trailing Arm Bushings (bushings at the spindle)
BK017 - Upper Control Arm Bushings

All of these components can be upgraded with minimal change in ride quality. We also have adjustable versions of these products.

What is not noticed in these videos is cradle movement. The rear cradles in these cars have huge rubber bushings that allow entirely too much movement. The camera is mounted to the cradle so it is not possible to view this movement in the video but these bushings are just as important to stabilize the rear suspension. We have two options for these bushings depending on how aggressive you drive and how much power you have:

BK024 - Poly Cradle Bushings or
BK028 - Delrin Cradle Bushings

Pricing and more info on these products is available on our website. Feel free to post, PM, email, or call with any other questions.
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Old 04-13-2012, 04:32 PM   #4
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Great videos and info.
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Old 04-13-2012, 06:32 PM   #5
chevy pride
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that is amazing

check out ky speeds fb page
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Old 04-13-2012, 10:13 PM   #6
Mark Stanford
Drives: Black 2010 SS LS3
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Wauconda, IL
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I just installed the 4 big BMR rear subframe bushings on my 2010 SS LS3. I figured out a lot easier installation process than then enclosed instructions described. All you have to do is:

Put the back of the car on jack stands, taking care to support away from the rear subframe. This is easier if you already have the BMR chassis brace installed, as you can use the rear, outboard spots on this to provide nice hard support points.

2. Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector per the instructions, brake line top spindle bolts and pop the e-brake cables out of their mounts. The instructions mentioned a stabilitrack electrical connector, but I could not locate it, so I ignored that step. Keep the calipers on the spindles and don't disconnect any of the control arms.

3. Put a floor jack under the flat, finned bottom of the rear differential. ( put a piece of 3/4 pine board between the jack lift platform and the diff.) and raise the jack up til it makes contact.

4. Remove the 4 huge subframe bolts (19mm I think)

5. Remove the round metal plates on the bottom of each bushing. They are press fitted into the metal ferrules in the center of the rubber bushings. I slipped a long large cold chisel on top of metal piece and whacked the chisel with a large hammer. The metal plates popped off and hit the garage floor with a nice bell ringing sound. Fewer hits with harder impact are better to pop these off. Save the plates as they go back into the same place when you reinstall the new bushings.

6. Crawl under the car with a 1/4" drill (a AC, not cordless) with 3/8 to 1/4 inch black oxide bit and drill up the inside of the each bushing, kissing the outer edge of the large mounting hole, with the intent of horking out a slit/channel through the outer fiberglass casing of the bushing. Take care not to hork out the mounting hole metal while doing this. I remove 1-2 mm of metal in one spot on one hole, but I think that's OK. Black oxide bits seemed to bite the best into the extremely tough rubber and fiberglass factory bushings. (Note also that the outer fiberglass stuff extends into the rubber in a semi-matrix type arrangement. The black oxide bits will drill right through it, but the gold colored "titanium" bits did not bite into the rubber) Feel free to leverage the running drill bit against the center metal ferrule to get leverage into the outer fiberglass casing. Yes, you will trash a number of bits in the process, but they are cheap.

7. Once you have a slit cut into the outer fiberglass bushing casing, drop the floor jack down about 4 inches, which will drop the whole subframe, diff and still attached drive shaft. This will open up enough space to pound out the slitted bushings with a 16oz hammer, and or 27oz dead blow hammer.

8. You should be able to drop the subframe just enough to squeeze the larger rear top pieces in. It's a little tight with the locating pin right there. Put in the front top pieces, then grease up the BMR metal ferrules and slid them into the bushings in place.

9. Jack the subframe back up, making sure the rear locating pins slide down into the rear bushing tops. (Note, the larger bushing pieces go into the top.)

10. Take the 4 large mounting bolts, stick them into the metal bottom bell pieces you removed and saved, and slip the bottom bushing halves on top of that. Then start the bolts by hand up through the bottom on all 4 corners, and torque them down to 130 lbs.

11. Remount the brake lines and fuel pump connector back into the positions from which you removed them.

These instructions assume the exhaust is already out of the car. In my case easy, since I already had the Kooks 3" system installed. (Loosen 1 band clamp on each side and slide each half/side off the x-pipe, off the rubber mounts.

Additionally, you can avoid disconnecting the drive shaft or mucking up the rear wheel alignment, since that stuff is all hard mounted to the subframe, and avoid disconnecting any of the control arms, once again preserving the alignment settings.

I'm kind of assuming that the original wheel alignment is preserved, since the subframe itself appeared to go back into the exact same position. The car drives great after the procedure.

I take the car to Byron Drag Way tomorrow.
Mark Stanford
2010 M6
Midwestracing on FB
CAI, Kooks 1 7/8" 3", LG G6X3, Remote tune by Ted Jannetty JRE God of Tuning, ID 8500 injectors, ZL1 Fuel system, BMR, Yellaterra, Lunati Valve train, Street Slayer Carbon Twin. Numbers pending Dyno test. is offline  
Old 04-16-2012, 02:44 PM   #7
BMR guy

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Thanks for the tips on installing our cradle bushings. We typed those instructions up almost 2 years ago and since that time there have been plenty of ingenious solutions to accomplish this install. It's always good to have alternative methods and feedback like this is what this forum is for. Enjoy your newly stabilized cradle and let us know how your track day went!
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