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Old 05-18-2012, 10:33 AM   #1
blazzin1


 
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Is changing out lifters necessary with new cam?

A friend of mine who is a big-time 4th Gen enthusiast was telling me if/when I change out my cam that it is critically important to install new lifters at the same time. Of course, that goes along with installing new springs, push-rods, and rocker arms (or at least the Comp Cams LS tunnion upgrade). I see many people on these forums talking about swapping out there cams, and there is plenty of talk about push-rods and/or rocker arm upgrades to go along with the new cams. But I don't hardly see or hear anyone talking about changing out lifters. Is that not really necessary because our cars are so new and typically have low milage? Or is my buddy correct, and lifters should be changed out along with the cam swap? Just curious....please excuse my inexperience!!!

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Old 05-18-2012, 10:39 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blazzin1 View Post
A friend of mine who is a big-time 4th Gen enthusiast was telling me if/when I change out my cam that it is critically important to install new lifters at the same time. Of course, that goes along with installing new push-rods and rocker arms (or at least the Crane Cams LS rocker arm upgrade). I see many people on these forums talking about swapping out there cams, and there is plenty of talk about push-rods and/or rocker arm upgrades to go along with the new cams. But I don't hardly see or hear anyone talking about changing out lifters. Is that not really necessary because our cars are so new and typically have low milage? Or is my buddy correct, and lifters should be changed out along with the cam swap? Just curious....please excuse my inexperience!!!
I beleave it depends if u have a ls3 or l99 ..i did my camshaft ..and upgraded the valve train(springs rods seals.comp cams trunion upgrade) i asked about the lifters n they said it didnt need to be changed...i think changing the lifters goes along with the l99 the ls3 u should be good...

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8. You can't spell "manual" without "man"
7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time
6. You can't drift in an auto
5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic
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3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick
2. Manual transmission cars are faster
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Old 05-18-2012, 10:51 AM   #3
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I beleave it depends if u have a ls3 or l99 ..i did my camshaft ..and upgraded the valve train(springs rods seals.comp cams trunion upgrade) i asked about the lifters n they said it didnt need to be changed...i think changing the lifters goes along with the l99 the ls3 u should be good...

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Old 05-18-2012, 10:55 AM   #4
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You coming to Astoria tonight bro?
Prob not man
Shoot me a pm with ur number if i do.ill let u know..but i think my girl has plans
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top 10 reason why real men drive stick.

10. A manual transmission is the ultimate in control
9. You can use automotive jargon and not sound like a total tool
8. You can't spell "manual" without "man"
7. Manual transmissions prove you can do more than one thing at a time
6. You can't drift in an auto
5. You can't pull fancy moves in an automatic
4. You get better fuel economy with a stick
3. You’ll never look like a chump if you can drive stick
2. Manual transmission cars are faster
1. Women like a guy who is good with his hands.

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Old 05-18-2012, 11:02 AM   #5
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Lifters do not need to be changed, that is a very time consuming process.

The only things you need to change are Springs and Pushrods.

We suggest changing to a double roller timing set for adjust-ability when degreeing a cam and for added extra strength. We also would suggest doing a trunion upgrade.

Rockers are really not necessary and it has been our experience that a lot of the cheaper rockers sets will fail. Lifters are kind of the same ball park, the cheaper lifter has been known to cause issues. Unless you are building a car that is trying to utilize every last bit of power I would leave those pieces alone.

Another good option at this time would be an ARP Crank bolt and a Underdrive Pulley.
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Old 05-18-2012, 11:37 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by modern-muscle View Post
Lifters do not need to be changed, that is a very time consuming process.

The only things you need to change are Springs and Pushrods.

We suggest changing to a double roller timing set for adjust-ability when degreeing a cam and for added extra strength. We also would suggest doing a trunion upgrade.

Rockers are really not necessary and it has been our experience that a lot of the cheaper rockers sets will fail. Lifters are kind of the same ball park, the cheaper lifter has been known to cause issues. Unless you are building a car that is trying to utilize every last bit of power I would leave those pieces alone.

Another good option at this time would be an ARP Crank bolt and a Underdrive Pulley.
And it's worthwhile to mention that a double timing chain set requires modifying the timing set cover and possibly shimming the oil pump... Which is a potential PITA from all i've read. If you're having someone do the install for you though... Go for it! If i were doing it myself, i would just do the trunion upgrade (and the rest of the valvetrain upgrades mentioned) and maybe a better single timing chain. I'm no master mechanic though.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:36 PM   #7
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My understanding is the only time you would want to upgrade lifters is if you were swapping heads, then you might as well do LS7 lifters for cheap insurance.
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Old 05-18-2012, 12:51 PM   #8
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And it's worthwhile to mention that a double timing chain set requires modifying the timing set cover and possibly shimming the oil pump... Which is a potential PITA from all i've read. If you're having someone do the install for you though... Go for it! If i were doing it myself, i would just do the trunion upgrade (and the rest of the valvetrain upgrades mentioned) and maybe a better single timing chain. I'm no master mechanic though.
Good note!

Most double roller timing sets come with the shims needed to get the job done so its not like you need to find them. It really isn't to bad once you are in there.
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Old 05-18-2012, 01:08 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by thahemp View Post
And it's worthwhile to mention that a double timing chain set requires modifying the timing set cover and possibly shimming the oil pump... Which is a potential PITA from all i've read. If you're having someone do the install for you though... Go for it! If i were doing it myself, i would just do the trunion upgrade (and the rest of the valvetrain upgrades mentioned) and maybe a better single timing chain. I'm no master mechanic though.
Mine wasn't bad at all. I prefer the strength and durability over a single personally.
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Good note!

Most double roller timing sets come with the shims needed to get the job done so its not like you need to find them. It really isn't to bad once you are in there.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:19 PM   #10
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My understanding is the only time you would want to upgrade lifters is if you were swapping heads, then you might as well do LS7 lifters for cheap insurance.
If you have an LS3, your stock lifters are the same as an LS7. There's no seperate PN anymore. Just regular lifters and DOD lifters in the DOD engines like the L99.
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Old 05-18-2012, 02:57 PM   #11
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DOD Lifters ware removed for this VVT-3 Cam swap.
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Old 05-18-2012, 03:49 PM   #12
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If it's an LS3 car with low mileage, I'd leave them alone...if you plan to take the heads off anyways, then I'd consider it depending on the mileage on the car...I think a lot of "sunk lifters" that I've heard about in person and online though...are not lifters making noise at all.
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Old 05-18-2012, 04:20 PM   #13
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Double roller chains are so Chevy 350's. You don't need them, I'd rather get a C5r single roller. I don't think most guys here make that kind of power to snap a timing chain. The advise should of been to remove the tensioner and adding an Ls2 dampner. Remember the harmonics are what really breaks those chains. Maybe a good pulley instead.
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Old 05-18-2012, 05:23 PM   #14
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Double roller chains are so Chevy 350's. You don't need them, I'd rather get a C5r single roller. I don't think most guys here make that kind of power to snap a timing chain. The advise should of been to remove the tensioner and adding an Ls2 dampner. Remember the harmonics are what really breaks those chains. Maybe a good pulley instead.
That's a little better explanation of chain breaking than what i had come across so far here.

The damper name gets used interchangably with tensioner (which i'm guilty of), and they mean different things. Resonance makes sense for breaking a chain. It even fits with the other logic i've seen. Basically... "the chain doesn't actually stretch, it just breaks". I'll find that post and requote it properly.

All you really need is something in there to keep the chain from making a standing wave. I don't see how 2 chains is the most practical solution. A damper is the correct solution. Has to be
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