Welds from my CTS-V bolted right up, but...

[2NASSTY]

Lower Control Arms are really close to the inner lip on the rears. Knocked off wheel weights by just driving slowly around the driveway.

Will this be a problem on hard launchs are even go over a bump at speed?

Sounds like I should look into BMRs aftermarket LCAs. Thoughts??

Thanks

[BPG]

I'd put a 5mil spacer on just for piece of mind. Looks killer though

[2NASSTY]

Thanks Man. I've been doing more research on this Forum about this clearance issue with Welds. Looks like it's the rear stabilizer bar head bolt that hits the inner wheel hub.

Easy fix is to shave the head bolt down with a dremel enough were you can still get a wrench on it. I re-inspected the rim where the wheel weights were knock-up off and that is exactly what was hitting them. Spacers would help but not solve the problem. I'll try this first.

Another interesting finding on yesterday's test fit. I just mounted the Welds on the passenger side front and rear and kept the factory wheels on the driver's side. Within 100 yards of driving, 5 different check lights kicked in with reduced power and power steering disabled. Stablility track warning, Active suspension warning, one other I cant remember.

Slapped the factory rims back on the passenger side, went for a Ride. Sure enough within 50 yards or less, all checked lights went off and full power and steering back on. I think the Ride Height sensors were so out of wack with the different wheel diameters on each side that it must have sensed the car was in a Crash or something.

The technology built into the various ecms on new performance cars is crazy right now. Cars will be driving us before we die.

[OK2DRUL]

Originally Posted by 2NASSTY

Another interesting finding on yesterday's test fit. I just mounted the Welds on the passenger side front and rear and kept the factory wheels on the driver's side. Within 100 yards of driving, 5 different check lights kicked in with reduced power and power steering disabled. Stablility track warning, Active suspension warning, one other I cant remember.

Slapped the factory rims back on the passenger side, went for a Ride. Sure enough within 50 yards or less, all checked lights went off and full power and steering back on. I think the Ride Height sensors were so out of wack with the different wheel diameters on each side that it must have sensed the car was in a Crash or something.

The technology built into the various ecms on new performance cars is crazy right now. Cars will be driving us before we die.

The overall tire size has to be within 1'' of each other or the stabilitrak system goes crazy. It doesn't take long before these cars realize something isn't right. Car looks sick with the Welds on though!

[jessrayo]

I just ground down my LCA bolts and they seem to work fine.

I have driven over 100 miles with shorter tires in the front. Front to rear size difference doesn't give you reduced power but all the other warnings come on. It wont have any traction control with different sized tires front and rear but it goes down the road fine and will still run 10 second quarters if you have enough power.

[Suprslo]

You guys are brave. I too put a grinder to my factory lower control arms at first, but come on. BMR sells a specific LCA to clear these wheels for $3xx. Don't chance it and buy the right parts.

[Suprslo]

This is with my factory 20's but you get the idea.

[BMR Sales]

Originally Posted by Suprslo

You guys are brave. I too put a grinder to my factory lower control arms at first, but come on. BMR sells a specific LCA to clear these wheels for $3xx. Don't chance it and buy the right parts.

Yes, our TCA028 or TCA029 will provide more clearance between the wheel and the LCA itself. However, it would probably be a good idea to still shave the head of that end link bolt as shown above. Also, keep in mind, the less expensive TCA028's are for lowered vehicles only. If not lowered, or you want a wide range of camber adjustability, you will need the TCA029.

[digdeep0169]

my gosh they look tiny

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Suprslo

You guys are brave. I too put a grinder to my factory lower control arms at first, but come on. BMR sells a specific LCA to clear these wheels for $3xx. Don't chance it and buy the right parts.

I can only speak for me but I talked to a few people that have a little suspension experience and got the idea that if you are ONLY going to drag race the car, then buy the BMR LCAs. If you plan on roadracing the car the stock LCA is heavier and larger, and putting the BMR unit on will potentially decrease it's rear end stability under heavy cornering loads. My car drag races but it is not drag car, it also road races and has as many mods for cornering and braking as it does to drag racing. Based on this I would rather grind a bolt than put on a part that is going to reduce the corning ability of my car. The drag radials are only on my car when I'm drag racing. Money isn't a factor for me, I'll buy a new Weld wheel if it rubs too much.... but just because it is designed to make it fit easier doesn't mean it is the "right" part for everybody.

[Suprslo]

You road race with 17inch welds?

I get what you're saying. I guess it's my fault for assuming the OP was into drag racing based on his wheel choice.

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Suprslo

You road race with 17inch welds?

I get what you're saying. I guess it's my fault for assuming the OP was into drag racing based on his wheel choice.

Nope, road race with 19" TSW interlagos. I drag race with 17" welds. I'm into drag racing...but the great thing about this car is it doesn't have to be one dimensional if you don't want it to be. My point is, from my understanding the BRM LCA is a drag specific part. If you want to narrow the focus of your ZL1 to improve drag racing go for it. Just my opinion.

[Suprslo]

I get it. Really, I do. Read the original post again. His wheel weights are coming off due to clearance issues. He asks if he will have a problem on hard launches.... Yes he will. I feel as I've rubbed you the wrong way giving him my advice. Maybe 17's aren't the best choice then. Maybe an 18 inch wheel will be better? Then no grinding or aftermarket parts are needed?

[jessrayo]

Originally Posted by Suprslo

I get it. Really, I do. Read the original post again. His wheel weights are coming off due to clearance issues. He asks if he will have a problem on hard launches.... Yes he will. I feel as I've rubbed you the wrong way giving him my advice. Maybe 17's aren't the best choice then. Maybe an 18 inch wheel will be better? Then no grinding or aftermarket parts are needed?

Well I must admit, my feathers felt ruffled when I first read your post and I may have been me reading into it, but it sounded like I was too cheap to buy the BMR LCAs. I almost bought them but I talked to some suspension people, that are no longer in business, and they told me it was a bad idea for road racing.

I just wanted to make sure the OP knows that someone else is doing a pretty fair amount of drag racing with 17" Welds and stock LCAs. I think the very best drag racing rim to run on the car is the 17" weld. It gives the maximum amount of sidewall without requiring major modifications that alter the ZL1s impressive cornering ability. My parking brake lines are zip tied down and my bolts are ground at an angle. The scuffing of the inside of the rim that is visible was all done with my initial testing before I ground the bolt heads. The suspension travels much more with hard cornering than it does in hard launches and those scuffs were actually made while cornering the car on freeway on ramps with the drag radials mounted before the bolts got ground. Since I have ground the bolts I have not had any contact issues and no problems with hard launches at the drag strip.

My wheel weights got knocked out at the same time the rims got scuffed. My car was noticeably unstable over 140 mph without wheel weights so I rebalanced the tires with clip on weights on the outside of the rims. No problems since. I think the 17" rims work great on the ZL1 with the modifications I have described. They work so well that at least as of todays fast list, I have the fastest 60 ft time on drag radials of any 5th gen Camaro with a manual transmission. I have the fastest manual transmission ZL1 on the list also.

I really didn't mean to rub you wrong, and I can see you have a lot of high quality suspension mods. I'm just offering another perspective that the car can run well on those rims without changing the LCA. Bolt grinding did the trick for me.