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Old 06-12-2015, 10:07 AM   #1
JoeV
 
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Tremec 6060 2nd Gear Grind Issue Repair

So after consulting with Tremec, GM, and some local performance shops, I am biting the bullet and having my 6 speed ripped apart in order to replace the 2nd gear synchronizer with the hybrid composite replacement part. The part is about $100 but labor will be about $900! Sucks but must be done. Tremec knows they have a problem with the earlier 5th gen Camaros. Mine being a 2011 falls into this group. It seems after 2012 they realized the issue and began beefing up the syncros. Sad part is they won't stand behind their product and the end user is out of pocket to fix the problem. Oh well. It will be well worth the money to be able to shift into 2nd gear without grinding away. (By the way this is only during quick shifts or higher RPM) If anyone has any questions let me know as I have done a lot of leg work to find possible solutions and consulted with many parties.

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Old 06-12-2015, 10:39 AM   #2
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Have the same problem on my 2011. I have to shift slow for it to work. Can u add the part number for future reference. Thanks


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Old 06-12-2015, 11:01 AM   #3
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My January 2012 build also has 2nd gear grind issues when its cold. After a few miles though, its good.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:05 AM   #4
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I have a 2013 and if the transmission isn't fully hot, a very fast shift at high RPM will have a slight grind. The 2nd gear syncho on the TR6060 just sucks, period. I cannot get a fast shift on the transmission, period, and shifts in that gear just aren't smooth like the rest of them. 2-3 and 3-4 are nice. 1-2, not so much. I don't think it's me.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:11 AM   #5
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Working on getting manufacturer info and part number. I ordered through AMP Performance in Phoenix AZ who will be doing the work.
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Old 06-12-2015, 11:56 AM   #6
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I have found that double clutching is the only way to prevent grinding in second gear.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:22 PM   #7
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My 2015 does it so I think they still havent figured it out.
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Old 06-12-2015, 12:49 PM   #8
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tues10357 is the Tremec part number for the carbon blockers. If you are having it taken apart and are interested in performance/strength you should replace all 4 and have bronze fork pads installed. There is also a bronze shifter cup and tailshaft bearing that can be installed. You could even send the gears to 300Below and have them cryo treated ($3.50 a pound plus shipping).

Not trying to talk you into spending money but seems like a waste to have it open and not upgrade it as much as possible.
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:35 PM   #9
Homeless Man
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I have a 2011 and it only grinds 1-2 shift in winter when it's cold and not warmed up. If I am doing high RPM shifts I never have a problem either. Is mine messed up?
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:59 PM   #10
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from what I gather the TR6060 likes a firm shift or it can grind. I don't experience the problem either, especially since I frequently shift from 1-4 just because I like the sound of it winding up.

However, it is fairly well documented that early models use sintered metal blockers and GM had Tremec start building them with a hybrid blocker to alleviate the second gear grind. Some say the hybrid blocker is the way to go, but all the race trans shops use the all carbon blocker rings. If you really want to go high hp, you can get a GForce 9310 mainshaft from RPM (they are the exclusive supplier), but be ready to part with some coin.
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:10 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCracka View Post
from what I gather the TR6060 likes a firm shift or it can grind. I don't experience the problem either, especially since I frequently shift from 1-4 just because I like the sound of it winding up.

However, it is fairly well documented that early models use sintered metal blockers and GM had Tremec start building them with a hybrid blocker to alleviate the second gear grind. Some say the hybrid blocker is the way to go, but all the race trans shops use the all carbon blocker rings. If you really want to go high hp, you can get a GForce 9310 mainshaft from RPM (they are the exclusive supplier), but be ready to part with some coin.
That doesn't make sense to me because mine shifts fine as long as I baby it but if I shift at high rpms under power it will grind. It is MUCH more noticeable if I'm spinning when it's time to shift
Any suggestions? sorry
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:22 PM   #12
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bleed your clutch/get the separate reservoir. helps a ton as well
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Old 06-12-2015, 02:28 PM   #13
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Carbon blocker rings and bronze fork pads are supposed to be the fix.

There are some good threads in the transmission driveline section about the operation of the synchronizers and blocker rings and why they can refuse a shift.

On other sites, some speculate that in high hp applications the trans housing itself may flex and they recommend faceplating the trans (Liberty Transmission explains this well), but those guys are pulling 1000+ hp.

When I say from what I gather, I mean my observations of others statements and my experience, no science there. I have the sintered metal rings and never got blocked out of second, although I was not spinning the tires during the shift and I shift around 6300.

When I have missed shifts I believe it was the boot I was wearing. My wife told me the brake lights were coming on when I shift. I have a prosthetic leg, so I take my shoe off now and no more missed shifts (still working out slipping the clutch). None of this will help your described situation but it's my experience.

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Originally Posted by spadz93 View Post
bleed your clutch/get the separate reservoir. helps a ton as well
I did this before I started racing it.
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Last edited by CamaroCracka; 06-12-2015 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:20 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CamaroCracka View Post
Carbon blocker rings and bronze fork pads are supposed to be the fix.
This is what I am having done. Hopefully it does the trick!
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