Was the car that achieved a 13.42@103.22 FULLY bolted on? Is your goal to reach 12.999 in full street trim? Lastly, any chance of getting negative DA in your area?

Interesting thread, although one we have had discussions about here on this board already.

I definitely feel like a very low 13 second pass (say 13.1 - 13.2 range) should be entirely possible without going too nuts on a custom N/A V6 build but I also have a feeling that we will never see that 12.999 pass.

One or two V6 Mustangs have done it. Here is the video of the one I'm familiar with:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mW5ac8qRNwE

Here is a description of mods from the youtube page: The car has the following mods: C&L CAI, AM/Bama 93H tune, BBK LT's with matching O/R X-pipe, Flowmaster 'Force II' axleback with a set of stock '11 GT resonators welded in (to tame the sound), 3.73 gears, J&M LCA's, Shaftmasters aluminum driveshaft, Steeda shifter, Spec Stage 1 clutch, 17" Race Star wheels, M&H bias ply front tires and 26x11.5x17 M/T ET Street bias ply rear tires.

If you watch the passes, you will see that his launches are incredibly hard. That car just hooks up and goes and I feel that is exactly what you are going to have to do to even get close to a super low 13 or high 12. With an automatic transmission, that means that a proper stall will absolutely be necessary, a long with drag radials and skinnies. It doesn't appear that he has much air in those rears either to give him maximum traction.

In my opinion you have a great list of mod ideas in your first post that will help out a lot. But I feel there are a few things you should pass on, such as the cams, IAT relocations, and the under drive pulley.

Wheels/tires, suspension (which you seem to mostly have covered) and gearing will be your best bet. I'd go with the 3.91s, but as rtcat600man has pointed out, the gears are going to hurt you mpg quite a bit, and if you do a stall that could also hurt your driveability, so you are going to have to be the one to make those decisions. If you don't mind the hit on driveability, and the possible hit on resale later on then by all means mod to your heart's content lol.

Removing some temporary weight (the seats) sounds great as well.

Last but not least, track prep, and the DA where you run will be another big factor in your pursuit which unfortunately may never be exactly what you need.

Everything I do is going to be weight cautious.

Not 100% sure but here is what I got from the v6 1/4 mile fast list:

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=61392

According to that he has: DRs/Skinnies, Injen CAI, ARH Longtubes/High Flow Cats, SS Axle Back, Trifecta Tune with a 1.950 60ft.

It is possible to get negative DA here, I have run in around -600DA last year. I do plan on keeping the car street legal since it is my DD when it is not winter.

I prob won't end getting the cams but why do you think the IAT relocation and pulley would be a waste KM?

Get your self some nice light weight racing seats and remove the back seat. Also Carbon fiber doors should cut around 50-100 lbs I would think (could be wrong) but are like $1000 each!! look at replacing your glass rear and side windows with lexon that should save a bunch of weight too

Id still love to see one of you NA guys go with a stroker kit.... Thats where the power is at!

O you just reminded me! Opti Armour makes a light weight windshield that is 14lbs lighter. They also make side windows too. Unfortunately their rear window doesn't have the defrosters and other stuff so I wouldn't replace that.

Carbon Fiber doors? I think at some point there needs to be a diminishing value on the return. Im all for getting a sixxer into the 12's, but $2000 in doors is extreme IMO. Could always buy a 2011 Mustang :wave:;) j/k

I'm no v6 expert and not trying to act like I am. But I'd think 4.10 gears and and a 3600 sta with some weight reduction and sticky tires should help you a lot

pulley isn't exactly a waste, but seems like a lot of work for what might get you 5 or 6 HP at peak. Then again, like I said before, if you are in pursuit of every extra horsepower available, then go for it.

As for the IAT, I feel like once you swapped out intakes, this probably really doesn't help much at all. I guess maybe it is possible it could help at the track, where you may end up sitting in line while you are staging for your run and moving the temp sensor to a location in a low part of the intake box could read slightly lower temps than the intake/throttle body tube.

doors
 

Going exotic on the door material is not good safety practice. But I do agree these things are like a tank hatch. But the list is a good start. I would think you will get close. maybe removeing the IRS with a solid 10 bolt rear end (No lincoln Locker) would take off some weight, then you can add any gear you want. But that is alot more work envolved.

If you have the heads up display, watch out on the windshield.

I don't plan on going that crazy haha. I will say though the Mustang is a great car. I'm not trying to prove I am better than anyone just want to see what is possible with these cars.

Thanks for the advice, seems to be the general consensus so far :thumb:. I'll have to start looking into tires.

Yea I may try out the pulley, I mean what's the worst that can happen? With the IAT relocation I was just trying to avoid heat soak but I think maybe my hex vents already help with that, I don't know.

Not going to lie I have no idea what any of that means haha. As of right now I may just start with the list I have and see where that gets me.

I don't remember what they originally said about how it works with the HUD. That will have to be something I will have to look into when the time comes but that is def something to consider.

Yes, he was bolt on only. I remember when he did this pass. There is some history on it in the drag thread.

Fastest 60' to date from all the info. I have gathered in that thread is 1.936