Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis (Post 1428599)

Always turn TC off and try 7 sec hold down to turn every thing off.
Hold gas pedal between 3,000 and 3,500 rpm. Drive it out of hole, don't pop clutch and don't slip it. Same motion as driving off from a red light on street.

DO INSTALLl BMR Fabrication ($139.95) or Spohn trailing arms, worth .2 reduction in 60 foot stops most wheel hop (protects drive train) Best mod you can make and easy to do.

Light burn out with street tires. Launch between 3,000 and 3,500 with minimal wheel spin and try to roll into throttle as wheels stop spinning. If it bogs coming out of wheel spin, roll into throttle sooner or faster. With to much wheel spin roll in later or slower.

Easiest to hold throttle steady and wait till wheel spins stops to roll into throttle but slower. You can raise or lower launch rpm holding pedal steady to prevent bog or too much spin, then roll into throttle after wheel spin stops. Need at least 3000 rpm to roll in after spin stops for best results. Push rev limiter for shifts but don't hit it.

Originally Posted by CFPC_2010 (Post 1429068)

I have the BMR parts (go to http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F5.htm ) and it has made a huge difference in how the car launches. It was done as part of a tech article in the current GM High Tech magazine where you can see a side-by-side comparison with the stock part. The car's launch changed drastically, I never had issues with wheel hop but when it spun the car would head towards the wall. Now the car goes straight and launches much harder. Stock tires I run low 1.80 short times and on drag radials I hit low 1.70s. The car only has a converter and headers and runs 12.40s at 111 mph.

Originally Posted by nuptualnemesis (Post 1429849)

I have BMR TA's. My mods are listed in my garage and dyno graphs in my photo album (click on name over avatar and home page for photos) Thunderracing.com in BR can get you anything.

TIP: Track surface temperature needs to be 50 to 55 degrees to get good hook.

TIP: You can remove front sway bar end links to get better lift and weight transfer. I drive on street with out them but don’t corner quiet as hard.

Second Mod I recommend is a Spohn rear sway bar, it has 80%,120% and 170% stiffer than stock settings. ($149.00) Makes IRS act more like a solid rear end. The middle setting helped completely eliminate wheel hop with drag radials. Ran a best 1.675 sixty foot. Will try stiffest setting next time. Spohn says not to use stiffest setting on street, only for race. The sway bar also reduces under steer (put front end links back on to try it). Under steer better for inexperienced drivers. You have to power through or out of cornering skid without it. Can’t let off like with stock suspension because rear end will spin around instead of straightening out. I am not sure how much the rear sway helped because I had also switched from 20” Nitto’s to 295/45/17 MT ET Streets at same time but it feels a lot more solid and improved handling. You may not need a new front sway bar but I think the Spohn front end links ($95) will help. Bwoody sells just the fron end links for I think $295.

TIP: Lighter rims and tires make dramatic improvement in performance. Less inertia to accelerate or stop. 1 lb reduction in reciprocating weight is like 4 lbs less sprung weight. Stock rims are boat anchors. I took off 40 lbs with 24 & 25 lb 20" racing rims and took .2 off my ET plus 2 mph.

Tip: Tirerack,com has cheap light weight 18” rims. Search under 2010 camaro LT. Must designate LT. They have 144 rims listed with 42 on special. When they get to three or less they go for $99 to get rid of them. I got 2-17x9 & 2-18x9 SSR 16lb rims for $396 ,regular $2400. Practically all 18" rims listed for Camaro LT will fit SS but one piece works better than 2 piece especially on 17's. Caliper clearance issue is back side of front of rim on 18's and top of caliper on 17's. Off set is 32-35 front and 40 rear. You can call and ask. They may even test fit them. I had to run a 3/8 spacer on the rear. Billet aluminum spacer from speedway.com $11.99 @. Longer wheel studs recommended. I also saved 10lb per front tire with smaller 27" diameter street not a racing skinny but streetable front tire. Match front and rear tire diameter for ABS. Pics in my photo album.

Originally Posted by BabyHauler (Post 1433942)

Anyone have any pics of the trailing arms installed?