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-   -   A sneak peak at our newly designed BMR rear lower control arms! (https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=328935)

BMR Sales 11-19-2013 04:14 PM

A sneak peak at our newly designed BMR rear lower control arms!
 
5 Attachment(s)
The is our newly designed BMR non-adjustable lower control that will replace our current version and will take over as part number TCA028. These non-adjustable lower control arms will work with the 2010 to current Camaros and can be used with the earlier style rear sway bars or the FE4 style rear sway bars. Our current BMR adjustable lower control arms (TCA029) will see the same changes and keep the TCA029 part number. We are thinking that this change in design for our TCA028 and TCA029 BMR lower control arms will become active within the next 3-4 weeks. If you guys have any question or inquiries let me know.

Now for the good stuff, here is some pictures of the new style lower control arm.

shibbs 11-19-2013 05:47 PM

Why the design change?

blazzin1 11-19-2013 05:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shibbs (Post 7200290)
Why the design change?

To accomodate the newer FE4+ suspensions on the 2012+ camaros.

Bo White 11-19-2013 06:33 PM

Powder coat those black and send em my way and I'll test fit and give a review.

ddck24 11-19-2013 06:33 PM

Are there big advantages in the extreme anti roll bar setup vs the new^^^^ 2012+ stock setup????
A little street, mostly drag racing

smokum 11-19-2013 06:39 PM

The way its notched will this fit a 15 inch wheel?

PAUL SS 11-19-2013 06:54 PM

Not for 2010 or 2011's? Or would I need new sways and end links?

grocerygetter 11-19-2013 08:03 PM

So on lowered car the adjustable could get camber back to 0 or a hair positive for drag racing launches?

blazzin1 11-19-2013 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddck24 (Post 7200416)
Are there big advantages in the extreme anti roll bar setup vs the new^^^^ 2012+ stock setup????
A little street, mostly drag racing

The "Xtreme" anti-roll bar is more geared towards drag racing vs. the FE4 suspension. If you are more serious about drag racing, you'd probably be better off with the Xtreme.

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokum (Post 7200436)
The way its notched will this fit a 15 inch wheel?

They will fit 17's, but not 15's. Need the BMR Drag Race Conversion for that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PAUL SS (Post 7200504)
Not for 2010 or 2011's? Or would I need new sways and end links?

These will fit both styles of suspensions.

Quote:

Originally Posted by grocerygetter (Post 7200719)
So on lowered car the adjustable could get camber back to 0 or a hair positive for drag racing launches?

Yep!!!

ddck24 11-19-2013 09:29 PM

Blazzin you're a fountain of knowledge!! Lol
Appreciate ya!! Bmr and weld need to put ya on the payroll!

blazzin1 11-19-2013 09:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddck24 (Post 7200970)
Blazzin you're a fountain of knowledge!! Lol
Appreciate ya!! Bmr and weld need to put ya on the payroll!

Hahahaha!!! Thanks!!! If you only knew how close to reality that statement really was......!!!!! (Sorry, inside joke!!!).

BMR Sales 11-20-2013 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by grocerygetter (Post 7200719)
So on lowered car the adjustable could get camber back to 0 or a hair positive for drag racing launches?

Is your car lowered at all? Actually our non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028) are a little shorter than the factory lower control arms so if you are lowered a little and looking to get to 0 camber or maybe even a little positive you could do it with our more affordable non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028).

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddck24 (Post 7200970)
Blazzin you're a fountain of knowledge!! Lol
Appreciate ya!! Bmr and weld need to put ya on the payroll!

Blazzin1 is definitely a good guy for us and we appreciate him choosing BMR for his suspension and chassis needs! :happy0180:

Camper 11-20-2013 10:31 AM

so thats why none of my bolts fit on my 15" conversion.. may i make the suggestion that you fit everything with it painted, so we dont have to die grind everything..

BMR Sales 11-20-2013 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper (Post 7201955)
so thats why none of my bolts fit on my 15" conversion.. may i make the suggestion that you fit everything with it painted, so we dont have to die grind everything..

What parts did you have issues getting the bolts through?

All of our plates are CNC lasered so there shouldn't be any issues with bolt fitment. The only time we ever have had a bolt fitment issue with that kit is with the upper coil-over mount. Sometimes the welder will take it off the jig too soon and the sleeves that the bolts run through will tweak just a hair making it a little bit of a pain to get the bolt in. If you have any problems with any of our stuff all you have to do is give us a call and we would be more than happy to help you out. It is hard for us to fix an issue if we don't even know that a issue exist.

Camper 11-20-2013 11:03 AM

I had an issue with the exact piece you just mentioned. Was a real pita. Kit is great other than that and have no complaints otherwise.

let me clear up what i said.. my suspension fully consists of all BMR product and the upper coilover mount was the only piece I had problems with.

BMR Sales 11-20-2013 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Camper (Post 7202033)
I had an issue with the exact piece you just mentioned. Was a real pita. Kit is great other than that and have no complaints otherwise.

let me clear up what i said.. my suspension fully consists of all BMR product and the upper coilover mount was the only piece I had problems with.

Alright I just wanted to make sure that it wasn't some crazy issue we didn't know about. I will make sure to go out and yell at my shop guys about it. If you ever run into an issue don't hesitate to call us because if it was too much of a pain I could have definitely sent you out another set of those coil-over mounts.

Padre 11-20-2013 12:06 PM

I'm getting my setup ready for Hoosier slicks on 17's.

Will I be good with MTCA030 for the LCA's?

I also plan on replacing my older TCA026 trailing arms with the TCA033.

I am lowered with BMR springs and have the sways via the HPP018 kit.

So, anything I'm missing or any other changes or improvements?

I'm not quite ready to go 15" wheels.

Thanks, Padre

blazzin1 11-20-2013 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padre (Post 7202184)
I'm getting my setup ready for Hoosier slicks on 17's.

Will I be good with MTCA030 for the LCA's?

I also plan on replacing my older TCA026 trailing arms with the TCA033.

I am lowered with BMR springs and have the sways via the HPP018 kit.

So, anything I'm missing or any other changes or improvements?

I'm not quite ready to go 15" wheels.

Thanks, Padre

Hey Padre,
You can't run those lowering springs with the MTCA030's, you have to use the Strange Eng. Shocks/Springs provided in the DRP007 Kit. Also, "I think" you could probably use your existing BMR rear sway bar, but considering the racing you do....the XTreme Anti-Roll bar would be much more suited for this application. I bought the DRP007 kit, and I already had the XTreme Anti-Roll bar, and I plan on running 17's for now. It will certainly give those 17's plenty of clearance around the LCA's, especially since it was designed for 15's!!! Should work pretty awesome. And then, down the road, if I want to convert to 15's.....all I would need is the Brake Package.

If you wanted to stick with your current spring/shock set-up, these new LCA's they're making (see post #1) would work fine (even with the 17's). Since you have the older FE3 suspension, you can still use the "older" version of the LCA's too without any issues. This new version just allows use of the newer FE4 style sway bars.

Padre 11-20-2013 12:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by blazzin1 (Post 7202202)
Hey Padre,
You can't run those lowering springs with the MTCA030's, you have to use the Strange Eng. Shocks/Springs provided in the DRP007 Kit. Also, "I think" you could probably use your existing BMR rear sway bar, but considering the racing you do....the XTreme Anti-Roll bar would be much more suited for this application. I bought the DRP007 kit, and I already had the XTreme Anti-Roll bar, and I plan on running 17's for now. It will certainly give those 17's plenty of clearance around the LCA's, especially since it was designed for 15's!!! Should work pretty awesome. And then, down the road, if I want to convert to 15's.....all I would need is the Brake Package.

Thanks for the info. :thumb: I'm still researching and trying to keep costs down. I also want to keep the car setup so I can run the Texas Mile if I'm ever able to get there. :cool: So any suggestions welcome.

Padre

Craig B 11-20-2013 12:24 PM

Will these be made of chrome moly?

blazzin1 11-20-2013 12:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padre (Post 7202216)
Thanks for the info. :thumb: I'm still researching and trying to keep costs down. I also want to keep the car setup so I can run the Texas Mile if I'm ever able to get there. :cool: So any suggestions welcome.

Padre

I added this....after-the-fact:

If you wanted to stick with your current spring/shock set-up, these new LCA's they're making (see post #1) would work fine (even with the 17's). Since you have the older FE3 suspension, you can still use the "older" version of the LCA's too without any issues. This new version just allows use of the newer FE4 style sway bars.

Bo White 11-20-2013 01:38 PM

When I had my car aligned I have plenty of camber adjustment with my lowered stance(1.5+). Toe adjustment on the other hand is used up for the most part. I still have adjustment left but its like 75% used up right now. I have BMR trailing arms and toe rods, both nonadjustable.

BMR Sales 11-20-2013 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Padre (Post 7202216)
Thanks for the info. :thumb: I'm still researching and trying to keep costs down. I also want to keep the car setup so I can run the Texas Mile if I'm ever able to get there. :cool: So any suggestions welcome.

Padre

Since you are only looking to run a 17" wheel on the back and you are lowered I would recommend running our BMR non-adjustable lower control arms (TCA028). These non adjustable lower control arms will allow you to run the sway bar you already have and will work well with you being on a budget. With these you will need to run adjustable toe rods (TR003 or TR004) so you can get the adjustment needed to get the desired alignment specs but this combination will allow you to get right at 0 camber which will be ideal for drag racing.

Shoot me a PM or e-mail Padre and I will see what I can do for you so we can get some more BMR parts added to the car.

Kyle

Quote:

Originally Posted by Criag B (Post 7202221)
Will these be made of chrome moly?

These newly designed arms will be made out of mild steel just like our current ones are. The only lower control arm will build that are chrome moly are our MTCA030 which are more race oriented and are what we include in our BMR drag race suspension package that are used when guys are looking to run a 15" rear wheel.

Powhusku 03-03-2014 06:08 PM

Are there any handling benefits these give when upgrading from FE3 LCAs?

caverman 03-03-2014 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ddck24 (Post 7200970)
Blazzin you're a fountain of knowledge!! Lol
Appreciate ya!! Bmr and weld need to put ya on the payroll!

Funny how this statement worked out in hind sight.....:D

ddck24 03-03-2014 08:19 PM

Sure did!!!! Hahahaha

blazzin1 03-03-2014 09:16 PM

Now, if I could only get Weld Racing to start paying me too!!! Hahahaha!!!!

blazzin1 03-03-2014 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Powhusku (Post 7466614)
Are there any handling benefits these give when upgrading from FE3 LCAs?

If you're upgrading from FE3 to an FE4 configuration….then yes, there are definitely some good benefits in handling. The FE4 sway bar functions more efficiently than the shorter FE3 set-up.

tooheysmax 03-03-2014 10:46 PM

What do you guys have as an adjustable option to compliment my Airlift build and with hiem joints.

acowherd 03-03-2014 11:14 PM

Dang! I thought this was going to be the newly redesigned lower control arms for the drag race kit!!

You know you guys want to release some info on this!!

Sleepy 03-04-2014 12:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 130R (Post 7467353)
The sway bar isn't a lever, and doesn't gain mechanical advantage by being longer, in fact, because the stiffness of a sway bar is proportional to its length, they lose stiffness, or become less efficient the longer they are.

The stiffness of a sway bar is also proportional to the 4th power of the diameter, so it's no coincidence that the FE4 rear bars have a larger diameter than the FE3 rear bars.

Sway bars do utilize lever arms at the ends, but once again, these are proportional to their length, which is why the closest hole to the bar is the stiffest setting, and the further out you go, the less efficient they are.

The FE3 bars also appear to have shorter lever arms (more efficient) than the FE4 bars.

So why do people keep posting the FE4 bars are more efficient? Is this just an assumption that bigger/longer is better? Or is there something I'm missing?

People post whatever they read on the internet (not targeted towards anyone). What you are referring to is stiffness at the end link and you are right. But you also have to consider FE3 bar mount inboard of damper/spring assembly with motion ratio about 0.4:1 and FE4 bar mount outboard of damper/spring assembly with motion ratio about 0.8:1 (my guess base on 0.7:1 damper/spring assembly motion ratio). Motion ratio has to be square to get the wheel rate so given the same strength bar, FE4 mounting point will be 4x stronger at the wheel.

Sleepy 03-04-2014 06:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 130R (Post 7467583)
Ahaaaa. The old increase-the-mechanical-advantage-of-the-lower-control-arm-by-moving-the-endlink-outward-trick… :)

Thanks sleepy! ;)

:thumbsup:

BMR Sales 03-07-2014 02:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tooheysmax (Post 7467400)
What do you guys have as an adjustable option to compliment my Airlift build and with hiem joints.

Are you asking about rear suspension control arms??? We do have the TCA029 lower control arms, TR004 toe rods, and TCA033 trailing arms....all adjustable.

Quote:

Originally Posted by acowherd (Post 7467440)
Dang! I thought this was going to be the newly redesigned lower control arms for the drag race kit!!

You know you guys want to release some info on this!!

Yes, we are about to start production on the "revised" MTCA030. It will have a delrin bushing on the inner connection point instead of the spherical ball joint, this will the prevent the rotational movement of the LCA that was seen on the earlier model. However, because of this new end connection, the arm will no longer be camber adjustable. We should hopefully have some ready to ship out by late next week.

BMR Sales 03-07-2014 02:54 PM

Testing of the new motor mounts is going well. I like them, and have no intention of removing them!!! As I mentioned before, yes, you can tell a difference. At low idle and up to about 1200-1500 rpm there is an increase in engine NVH. That is to be expected, these are "race" parts with low deflection polyurethane bushings instead of the factory hydraulic/rubber mounts. Is it overly annoying or intolerable? No, not at all. But keep in mind, I'm still running the stock cam. So, once again, I believe the vibrations will be more pronounced with the "big cam" guys.....I think that's kind of obvious!!! Hopefully, we will be going into production on these within 2 weeks or so. We're very pleased with the end results on these!!!

Bo White 03-07-2014 03:16 PM

The angle of the dangle is directly proportionate to the heat of the meat.

BMR Sales 03-07-2014 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bo White (Post 7476996)
The angle of the dangle is directly proportionate to the heat of the meat.

Yes, exactly!!!

ClawSS 03-12-2014 02:16 PM

Bump for this was the place I meant to post, Keith. But thanks for the FE3 -> FE4+ answer on your other "sneak peak" thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ClawSS

I have a 2010 and just (as in last night) received the "old" design as ordered (thanks, Apex) set up for my FE3 suspension. If I am not road racin' or auto-x'ing my car each weekend would only be corner carving on the road...is there a reason to swap?
----
I'm assuming you're talking about the TCA028 or TCA029 lower control arms, right? If you don't ever plan on switching to the FE4 Suspension, there is no reason to change them. For aggressive street driving, the FE3 is more than capable!!!

olblue75 03-17-2014 08:49 PM

Got to studying the first set of pix an i see you can run the FE3 or the FE4+ bar but if i knew im wasnt going to run the FE3 could a guy get them without the FE3 tabs???

etmx183 03-18-2014 09:04 AM

Some help please folks. I am going with Weld RT-S 17" rims on all four. I have the BMR adjustable LCAs ready to install. So my understanding is my rear sway bar WILL NOT work now? I use the car for fun, not a DD and some serious dragracing. OK, yes I said serious dragracing and it's a V6. I already have many other BMR suspension parts on the car.

BMR Sales 03-18-2014 12:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olblue75 (Post 7503140)
Got to studying the first set of pix an i see you can run the FE3 or the FE4+ bar but if i knew im wasnt going to run the FE3 could a guy get them without the FE3 tabs???

Unfortunately, we will only be making these as pictured with provisions for both suspensions. We can't start making custom orders for one person because every person on here will want something different!!! I hope you understand!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by etmx183 (Post 7504118)
Some help please folks. I am going with Weld RT-S 17" rims on all four. I have the BMR adjustable LCAs ready to install. So my understanding is my rear sway bar WILL NOT work now? I use the car for fun, not a DD and some serious dragracing. OK, yes I said serious dragracing and it's a V6. I already have many other BMR suspension parts on the car.

If you have a 2012 V-6, you "should" still have the FE3 sway bar set-up, where the sway bar end links mount on the inboard side of the shocks. If that's the case, you can certainly hook up your sway bar to the new LCA's. We have not been able to do a test fit yet with the FE4 suspension and 17" Welds, but I would think the end link or the sway bar itself may contact the wheel.


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