SHURE-FIRE METHOD TO CURE BRAKE SQUEAL
 

First, let me apologize for sitting on this thread so long. I actually did this fix about a year ago, but I've been too lazy to post up the photos and descriptions.

For all of you out there who have been frustrated by GM's failed attempts (caliper weights, roller-skate pads, etc.) to cure the annoying brake squeal that afflicts so many of our Camaros, I promise this will do the trick. It's inexpensive (about $30) and quick (two to three beers max). It's also easy, even for novice wrench turners. Do it once, do it right, and say good-bye to that embarrassing cacophony that emanates from your wheels every time you stop.



These are the only items you need to purchase:

1. Caliper Bolts (FRONT) - GM P/N 11570788 M14 x 2.0 x 56.5

2. Caliper Bolts (REAR) - GM P/N 11515781 M12 x 1.75 x 60

3. Permatex ULTRA DISC BRAKE CALIPER LUBE - Item #24110

Go ahead and pop the top on that first frosty beverage, and give me about thirty minutes to upload the rest of this stuff. :drinking:

:paddle: how long exactly have you been sitting on this information?


but anyways...:popcorn:

I used disc brake quiet on the back of the pads and solved it on my ss not too long ago

plus 1 - CRC makes some good stuff

STEP ONE
 

Before we lift the wheels (I started at the rear), you might want to fabricate a couple of pads for your jack stands. I use regulation hockey pucks that I've impaled with 1-inch eye screws because they fit nicely in the box-beam slots. Just insert the eye, twist 90 degrees, and you have a nifty little pad that keeps the jack stand from scratching your frame.

STEP TWO
 

Next take a stock regulation puck and place it in the cup of your floor jack. Slide the floor jack under the differential drag link and lift the rear wheels as shown. Don't forget to chock the front wheels before lifting the rears.

Insert the jack stands under the previously-installed pads and lower the the jack until the weight of the vehicle is evenly distributed across all three jack-points.

You may want to loosen the lug nuts with a braker bar (7/8 socket) before you lift the wheels off the deck, although this is not absolutely necessary with the rear wheels.

That's actually a pretty nifty trick to pad the jack stands

STEP THREE
 

Remove the wheels and use a 1/8-inch punch to remove the pad retention pins. It may be necessary to relieve the tension by depressing the spring with your thumb as shown.

STEP FOUR
 

With the pins and spring removed, place the punch in the brake-pad pin hole and work the pad aft until you can grasp it and pull it all the way out. Do this for both the inboard and outboard pads.

STEP FIVE
 

Next use a braker-bar and ratchet (18mm socket) to loosen and remove the caliper-to-hub bolts and discard them. These are torque-to-yield bolts and should not be reused. If you're not willing to buy new bolts, you need to at least make sure you put fresh loctite on them when you re-install the calipers.

Pull the caliper from the rotor and rest it on top of the control arm as shown.

You may be wondering why we're bothering to pull the caliper? There are two reasons. First, we're going to lube the caliper in the area shown (this is where it makes contact with the hub assembly, and second, you can't slide the pads back into the caliper without removing a lot of the lube in the process. Therefore, we're going to preload the pads into the caliper before placing the caliper back on the rotor.

I don't like to be the guy bringing a black cloud to a thread, but the Ultra Disc Brake Caliper Lube will not last anywhere near that long if the car is driven hard. I am actually surprised this isn't being used when customers drive into a GM Dealership. It is a standard practice at places like Rodgers Chevrolet.

STEP SIX
 

Because we have two small pistons instead of one big one, They're easy to push back in, and don't require a "C" clamp or other special tool. You'll need to do this if you're replacing your pads with new ones (I went with Hawk ceramics).

You can use a block of wood and your thumb to walk the pistons back into the caliper. Don't forget to loosen the brake reservoir cap and place a towel around it to catch any overflow while you're pushing the pistons.

Patience, my good man. At least let me finish before you trash the thread. :yikes:

STEP SEVEN
 

Now comes the fun part. We're going to lube the hell out of everything - the backs of the pads, the pinholes, the pins and spring, and don't forget the caliper. Any place where metal meets metal and has the potential to vibrate, we're gonna' lube it. And lube it like we mean it. When you're finished lubing, it should look like a second grader did it.

I know JusticePete doesn't think this is going to work, but I've put 18,000 miles on this job in the last year, and my brakes are still quiet. And I drive it hard (at the track and on the street).