Boston Subs that will DESTROY
 

I'm going with 2 of these in the trunk of my Camaro

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ca...product_id=374

They are 12" subs with tuned passive radiators...each one puts out the power and db of a 15" sub. Two of these babies is going to be just ridiculous. I'll have 400 watts RMS per sub going to them for now and if that's not enough I'll upgrade.

I figure these are perfect for the Camaro considering the small trunk opening. I'll put one in at a time and position them in the best sounding spot.

400 watts? Which amplifier?

You going to hook it up straight to the battery in the trunk or get a 2nd battery?

I bought this one already i think i need only one though its the most powerful sub Boston acoustics are selling. 1000 watt rms at 2ohms

http://mobile.bostonacoustics.com/ca...product_id=373

Yeah I looked at the SPG, but honestly in my experience those monster type subs require too much power to sound good. The D5 is much more efficient and besides I'll be sticking with the stock sound system inside the car so I don't want to overpower it too much anyhow.

And the amp I'm going to use is an Akai ACA-2104 http://www.akai.com/product_detail.a...id2=24&id3=161 This is a low price amp that puts out a good 800 watts RMS at 4 ohms in bridged 2 channel mode. I've seen reviews that put it on par with 1200 watt RMS Audiobahn amps. But still I'm not positive it will be enough for the D5's so if it doesn't hit hard or clean I'm going to man up and get a proper Earthquake amp.

I haven't decided if I'm going to go with a 2 fared capacitor or run a 2nd battery. I really hate adding a ton of weight so I'm leaning towards the cap....either that or get a lightweight battery for my primary and use the stock battery as the amp power. In fact I'm so concerned about adding weight I'm considering making my own custom enclosures from fiberglass instead of the mdf Boston boxes.

i have already matched it with an amp, its a little on the pricy side am not buying it from here though i know their items are way over priced

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500PDX1...owAll=Y&tp=115

And i know its alot of extra weight but i doubt i will be racing too much......unless i see a mustang

Nice amp...that'll do the trick. I used to rock this Earthquake D2 http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Earthquake_PH-D2/ until I had a flat tire and let the speaker wires touch the trunk lid of my Lexus. POOF it went.

you have to be careful when buying a amp because they will advertise that you are getting 1000 watts and you are really getting 400 rms at 2 ohm and 150 rms at 4 ohm and you drive up to someone thinking you have the best shit in the world, and come to find out my tweeters are louder than your subwoofers.

look at ohm ratings when buying a amp if its 1000 at 1 ohm what is it at 2 or 4... it will decrease but will sound better in the long run...

That's a really good amp. The nice thing about these, is if you plan on having two or three amps, you can stack these units on top of each other and save a LOT of space.

That will definately do the trick. You sure you didn't just pop the fuse on the amp?

These days, when purchasing an amplifier just look for the tag that says "CEA-2006 Compliant." This tag indicates that the company adheres to this "voluntary" standard that advocates a uniform method for determining an amplifier's RMS power and signal-to-noise ratio.

A lot of amps are that way. Most will be rated for 1000 watts x 1 at 2-ohms but go down to 500 watts x1 at 4-ohms. That Alpine somehow is rated for 1000 watts x1 at both 2 and 4 ohms, which is handy.

You're on the right track here!!

I'm running 2 of the SPG-555 in my 07 Avalanche. Each one has a dedicated PDX-1000 and the rest of the components(BA Pros) running on a PDX-4.150. The subs hit hard and everything is sonically correct. The amps get very hot, which is a concern, and they suck a LOT of power. I'm running 2 yellow tops with an isolator and I still have problems with lights dimming.

Have you tried a capacitor? And where do you have the amps located?

sounds like you need a capacitor

a .5 Farad capacitor for systems up to 500 watts
a 1 Farad capacitor for systems up to 1,000 watts
a 2 Farad capacitor for systems up to 2,000 watts

Yeah the yellow tops will only provide reserve power and rundown protection...they probably can't discharge as fast as a capacitor to prevent dimming.


I was thinking of maybe building a custom enclosure in the spare tire well. I saw some photos of that opening today and it's very large and deep and since I'm getting an SS it won't have a spare anyways....also the battery is right there so talk about easy hook up.

Would there be a downside to connecting the amp ground directly to the negative post of the battery?

how do you plan on connecting the amp ground to the battery post, seem like the mat wouldn't sit flush might be wrong though.