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Old 06-04-2018, 02:00 PM   #15
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ZL1 in inferno!! Hell YEA BROTHER!!!!
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:18 PM   #16
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10-11 TR6060's are the most likely to grind the 1-2 shift, make sure you give it a good test drive and see how it behaves.
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:50 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acammer View Post
10-11 TR6060's are the most likely to grind the 1-2 shift, make sure you give it a good test drive and see how it behaves.
That's good information. Is it only during a spirited shift or related to the 1-4 skip shift?

And is it just a syncro issue that's an easy repair?
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Old 06-04-2018, 02:54 PM   #18
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I have a 2010. I only noticed the 1-2 grind when the tranny is cold. It seems to have gone away completely since I upgraded my clutch. However, I don't really beat on my car until it reaches operating temps.

I've done just about every upgrade that you can do mechanically wise on a '10. FE4 upgrade is probably one the best upgrades if you like to hit twisties.
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:58 PM   #19
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I recently upgraded to a 2010 1SS, it took some searching, but I was lucky and did manage to find one that matched my original 2010 1LT. So glad I did it, I Love the V8!!!
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Old 06-05-2018, 07:28 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChibiBlackSheep View Post
That's good information. Is it only during a spirited shift or related to the 1-4 skip shift?

And is it just a syncro issue that's an easy repair?
It's not related to skip shift.

It appears in a few different ways. The most common is the "cold 1-2 grind". That's just what it sounds like, the car will grind the 1-2 shift when the trans is cold. It's pretty easy to drive around that, you can rev match the shift, or just avoid it and go 1-3 till it warms a little.

The other issue is the "high rpm/fast shift 1-2 grind". This is not temperature related, and appears when making a fast 1-2 shift at high rpm. You may encounter a crunch as it goes into gear, a grind, or a complete lock-out.

Both of these issues stem from sub-optimal factory parts in the synchronize. There is a TSB somewhere about this, and many early TR6060's were corrected under warranty. The correction is a few new parts that aren't that expensive, and an installation, which is a significant job.

The high rpm grind is also sometimes attributed to imperfect clutch release performance. Ideal Garage even sells a modified clutch master cylinder that moves a little more fluid in order to open the clutch sooner/faster/further to aide in fast shifts at high rpm. I have one on my car, it helps.

My car had a Hurst Billet Two Plus short throw shifter when I bought it, and it was miserable. It rattled like crazy, and ground the 1-2 shift a lot. I chased a lot of things before figuring out it was the short throw - I went back to an OE shifter and it resolved my issue.
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Old 06-05-2018, 08:47 AM   #21
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I chose a '13 model specifically for the Mylink, available NPP catback, midnight silver wheels on the 2SS, frame-less rear-view mirror, and ZL1 shift knob.

The available NPP catback was the biggest draw for me though. The '13 model year, to me, is the pinnacle year for the 5th gen's.
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