12-01-2023, 08:32 PM | #1 |
Drives: Chevy Camaro SS '13 Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 3
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Suspension (shock/strut) Replacement, Looking for Efficient Upgrades
My 2013 SS at 88k miles needs fresh struts/springs. I am debating on whether to go OEM or OEM-like or upgrade. I honestly don't want to put a whole bunch of money into a car this age so leaning towards something in the OEM price range that may give a bit more performance. As part of the activity, I am interested in upgrading some of the bushings assuming there are some good bang for your buck replacements that would be easily accessible during the strut replacements.
Recap: what are some OEM price range struts offer better performance and are there bushings that could be changed in same area while work is being done? |
12-01-2023, 10:08 PM | #2 | |
Life's just a Ride
Drives: 2011 Synergy Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 854
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12-02-2023, 10:50 AM | #3 | |
Drives: Chevy Camaro SS '13 Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 3
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Quote:
Do you have any suggestions regarding my goal to find a good OEM+ strut replacements and whether there are bushings that could be readily upgraded during the activity (i.e. low hanging fruit)? |
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12-07-2023, 06:42 AM | #5 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,763
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Best super low buck suspension upgrade is the front radius arm inserts from companies like Pedders or Whiteline, $25 and definitely make a difference.
If you are not willing to pay an extra couple hundred on quality struts, then you surely don't want to invest the amount of time it will take to replace any bushing and you probably don't need them. Rock Auto was clearancing their OEM stuff and you might be able to pick up front control arms and toe rod ends cheap if they have not already disappeared. The parts will come with new bushings in them, but again, probably not needed at your mileage. The biggest suspension improvements you can make are struts/shocks, sway bars, solid cradle bushings, but none of those are cheap. If I needed struts, I would go with 1LE spec or better units from someone like Koni or KYB.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
12-07-2023, 06:47 AM | #6 |
Drives: 2010 SS M6 ABM Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Nashville, IN
Posts: 275
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I did a GM 1LE+ conversion to my 284,000 mile 2010 SS last winter. What a difference! Much better than the original Suspension. I have to admit it was a lot of work and I ended up replacing a lot of other worn-out control arms, tie rod ends and such. But it was definitely worth it.
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12-07-2023, 08:53 AM | #7 |
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Clarksville Tennesse.
Posts: 6,069
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75k 2010 SS get a set Bilstein B6's and call it the day.
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Orange Krush II
1LE Front sway bar, Splitter, shocks and struts, Z28 dual mode mufflers, Intake, UCA Bushings, and Toresen 3.91 Diff. 1 piece DSS Drive Shaft, ZL1/C7 Calipers, and 32mm JPSS Rear Bar. ASC race spec splitter and wicker. 6th Gen M017 Wheels. Stainless Works 1 7/8 LTs. DSE and PAFDT Suspension components. |
12-07-2023, 09:07 AM | #8 | |
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS2 2012 C6 vette M6 Join Date: Jan 2022
Location: Atlanta Ga
Posts: 78
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12-07-2023, 12:01 PM | #9 | |
Drives: Chevy Camaro SS '13 Join Date: Sep 2023
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 3
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Also, thanks for information on bushings and other information. |
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12-08-2023, 09:00 AM | #10 | |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,763
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A lot of guys like those B6's OlBlue mentioned.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
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12-14-2023, 08:06 PM | #11 |
Drives: 2023 Sharkskin ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 122
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I have a 2010, listening to the thread - staying at stock height, what changes would reduced body-roll, or reduce it as part of an efficient plan to update the suspension?
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12-15-2023, 05:40 AM | #12 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,763
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If you are strictly interested in reducing body roll, replace the sway bars with and FE4 setup. Stock bars are smallish and hollow. Some will say they are solid, but I cut one in half and they are hollow. The FE3 suspension on early Camaros like ours puts the sway bar end links more inboard than the later FE4 (2012 and later). Swapping to the FE4 with bigger bars is huge change. You will also need the bigger sway bar end links on the front that came on later cars. When I went to replace mine the old units fell apart and I don't have a lot of miles and had only been running a 27mm bar for about 5k miles.
If you really want to make a difference, put in solid or at least poly cradle bushings with the new bars as well as radius arm inserts ($25) and a new set of Billstein. Koni, etc. shocks. Get 1LE spec shocks.
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. |
12-29-2023, 02:34 PM | #13 | |
Drives: 2023 Sharkskin ZL1 M6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 122
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But first - how does this recipe affect ride comfort? Is all body roll reduction coupled with unpleasantness? I'm really after 'improved-stock'. Would "1LE" rated shocks be too harsh, or does 1LE-ness of ride also include many other factors? Gah - I realize this is vague bordering on outright subjective. Also, while getting this done, is there any rubber in the suspension (aside from things around swaybars and those cradle bushings) that should be replaced? |
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12-31-2023, 03:06 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2010 Turbo LS3 Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 2,763
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Are you sure you are from Texas? I've never heard anyone from Texas refer to NVH as "unpleasantness." Also, why does your info say you have a 2023 ZL1?
You say stock, but the 1LE and Z28 suspension are stock for their respective cars. The 1LE runs the same springs as the SS. The difference with the shocks is that 1LE are monotube and Z28 are spool valve. What really makes the Z ride harsher is the 600 pound springs and reduces travel, but that is not relevant to this discussion. If you just wanted a soft pillowy ride, I don't think you would have purchased a Camaro in the first place. Changing suspension components definitely changes how a car rides, but most Camaro owners would see a move from the 2010 SS suspension to something like the later 1LE set up as a positive move. FE3 refers to the original rear suspension used in 2010-11. FE4 is 2012 on and uses a different rear sway bar that is longer, thus having more leverage on the lower control arm (LCA). The 1LE cars use this with a 28mm solid rear bar and 27mm solid front bar. It's one of the biggest differences with the 1LE that makes it handle better. Converting to FE4 from FE3 requires that later LCAs, sway bar links, and sway bar. The factory FE4 LCAs work well and are only about $60 if they have not been discontinued. Links were under $20 a side. I run a 32mm rear bar from Pedders on the vert, but you decide what bars you want to run. Justice Pete recommended 5mm larger bars in the rear to reach neutral steering. Here is a link to a thread. https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=388157
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2010 SS - On3 kit with downpipe cutout, CTR 78/80, CompCam 239/251 620/632 122+4, E85, Z28 suspension and ZL1 diff with Outlaw axles. Gen6 ZL1/1LE brakes.
2011 Vert - 416/w 230/236 .612/.602 115lsa, 1LE suspension w/32mm rear bar. Z28 diff. ZL1 brakes. Last edited by CamaroCracka; 01-01-2024 at 01:11 PM. |
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