--Important read-- Engine Oil Tech

[IndeedSS1]

Originally Posted by Supermaro585HP

I think there is a lot of bullshit in this thread. I was just told by my shop that Mobil 1 is a very good oil and to keep using it. The shop I use is Rodeheavers performance shop about 45 miles from Pittsburgh PA. I'm not saying that it is all BS but what the hell. Why would Chevy tell us to use it. I don't think they want all the extra cost of warranty work. Just saying...

A lot of people reading this thread agrees with you but are afraid to say so. Obviously if you have a heavily modded engine then the rules are different. However, for the majority on here I just don't see M1 etc with proper OCI being a problem. Someone posted the write-up in this thread on the BITOG website and it didn't appear to me to make much of a stir. I assume the reason for this is because over the years this same thing comes up now and then.

[Anthony @ LG Motorsports]

Originally Posted by Supermaro585HP

I think there is a lot of bullshit in this thread. I was just told by my shop that Mobil 1 is a very good oil and to keep using it. The shop I use is Rodeheavers performance shop about 45 miles from Pittsburgh PA. I'm not saying that it is all BS but what the hell. Why would Chevy tell us to use it. I don't think they want all the extra cost of warranty work. Just saying...

Most of us on here are not dealing with stock cars that we take back and forth to work or to the grocery store.

As for ourselves...we push the cars to the limits and past.

Like with anything else take it for what you will. I don't make oil, nor do I plan on doing so. This is something we have been seeing over the years and see to be a growing issue with those that mod the engines and push them.


I will say this. If you own a stock, restored '60's Muscle car with flat tappets in the car..you will see very quickly how bad M1 is with those setups.

[RBL]

Originally Posted by Supermaro585HP

I think there is a lot of bullshit in this thread. I was just told by my shop that Mobil 1 is a very good oil and to keep using it. The shop I use is Rodeheavers performance shop about 45 miles from Pittsburgh PA. I'm not saying that it is all BS but what the hell. Why would Chevy tell us to use it. I don't think they want all the extra cost of warranty work. Just saying...

Chevy does not know that most of use have a big cam installed with stiff ass springs and a blower running 10lb of boost. On a stock car Mobil one is going to be just fine.

[SSBUSDRVR]

Imho I wouldn't use any "new standards oil" in a modified engine.
Royal Purple basically says their own API Oils are not your best bet for modified engines and I believe the OP and others have said they have had issues with RP and others and have seen and documented damage using them.

"Royal Purple’s API-licensed* engine oils are formulated specifically to meet current American Petroleum Institute (API), International Lubricant Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC), and Association des Constructeurs Européens d’Automobiles (ACEA) specifications for new vehicle warranties. Over the last several years, these specifications have become increasingly stringent on certain additives, particularly those commonly used for anti-wear. As such, the new warranty restrictions aren’t the best solution for consumers that have modified their vehicles or those simply looking for the greatest performance.

That being said Have been around some pretty big Street/Strip builds that have been using their HPS Oil( has a pretty high anti wear Zinc/Phosphorus content)Maybe the jury is still out it hasn't been around that long. Have been running it without issue and will continue to do so.

[POS Dakota]

Originally Posted by Anthony @ LG Motorsports

Even our friends at the dealers are seeing issues with stock cars having lifter issues.

While it is very important for those upgrading the cars, it is still important for the average joe as well....at least if you plan on keeping the car for a long time.

What are your opinions on the zinc content vs the oil fil strength itself?
What are the problems with these hydraulic lifters, and what are better replacements?

[Anthony @ LG Motorsports]

Originally Posted by POS Dakota

What are your opinions on the zinc content vs the oil fil strength itself?
What are the problems with these hydraulic lifters, and what are better replacements?

The problem is that the current 'shelf' oils don't have enough film strength to keep oil between the lifter and the cam so the roller will sometimes stop turning or the lifter will dig into the camshaft. It can also turn the lifter in the holder as well....

It isn't a lifter problem...the best lifters in the world would still fail if they are not getting the proper lubrication.

[SC2150]

Originally Posted by IndeedSS1

A lot of people reading this thread agrees with you but are afraid to say so. Obviously if you have a heavily modded engine then the rules are different. However, for the majority on here I just don't see M1 etc with proper OCI being a problem. Someone posted the write-up in this thread on the BITOG website and it didn't appear to me to make much of a stir. I assume the reason for this is because over the years this same thing comes up now and then.

Yes. Nothing wrong with M1 for passenger cars not modified and driven easy. For years we used the old formulation of M1 even in our alky drg motors with excellent results. It is just those running their car hard and the modified ones with higher lift cams that really have to be concerned with the current formulation of shelf oils.

For hard driven cars it is a small price to pay for the peace of mind a premium oil will give.

[TCAT]

I've been looking for different oil filters for my next change. Now, it seems like the Amsoil 15k50 is great, and some other popular ones are the Napa Gold, Mobil 1 M1-113, and the K&N HP-1017.

What's your thoughts on those. I've been researching a lot lately about who manufacturers these filters, as well as their consistency in manufacturing filters.

Thanks

[TocaSeries]

Im so confused, I just put Mobil 1 full syn in my car because ton of threads saying that was a great oil to use....and now.....im confused. I dont have a crazy modded car; CAI, Kooks LT Headers and a Catback. My questions then is am I ok with the Mobil 1 5w-30 or next time should I switch to Amsoil? or a diff oil? HELP!

[TCAT]

Originally Posted by TocaSeries

Im so confused, I just put Mobil 1 full syn in my car because ton of threads saying that was a great oil to use....and now.....im confused. I dont have a crazy modded car; CAI, Kooks LT Headers and a Catback. My questions then is am I ok with the Mobil 1 5w-30 or next time should I switch to Amsoil? or a diff oil? HELP!

No worries man . I think the moral of the story is that Mobil 1 synthetic is fine to use, particularly on a stock car, or lighted modified one that hasn't been dug into the motor yet, or for one that hasn't gone the forced induction route. However, even for stock LS3 or L99 Camaro's, there ARE other better oil to be used. With a built motor, or forced induction, this upgrade in oil becomes even more pertinent for motor performance, efficiency, and longevity. To me, spend twice as much on the upgraded oil and oil filter is worth the cost, and piece of mind. This isn't a time where I want to cut corners.

[flyer08]

Going for oil change Saturday. What's best for non-cam car that is dd and mostly city miles? All other mods are basic bolt ons, headers, cai, exhaust, etc

[SC2150]

TCAT is correct.

As for the best oil, you cant go wrong on any gasoline engine going with the best protection available (IE Amsoil, etc.)

[1Camaro2SS]

I just installed a fairly large Comp LSr cam in my car and converted the valvetrain to LS3. I don't drive it in the winter and I tend to drive it hard at times, mostly on the street. I'd like to use VR1 oil. Sounds like 10W30 synthetic is recommended?

[spyderbuddy]

Originally Posted by Louis @ LG Motorsports

You dont have to believe it. You just keep using Mobil 1 street oil in your engine. Until then, my customers that heed our warnings from what us, and other industry experts do best, and do it for a living, will use a proper oil that has zero downside, other than its not readily available.

For the record, there is nothing "ricer" about a 500-600whp 4G63. There is more tech in that engine than you can shake a stick at. Give respect where respect is due.

I dont expect everyone to understand this. I dont expect everyone to understand the dynamics of a cam either.

But calling a legitimate test done by one of the best turbo engineering company in the world only "some what valid" is asinine.

Louis

I've 160,000 on a 1998 GMC Sonoma that has had nothing but mobil one run in it. I've had no problems with this engine.
I had a 1981 Fiat Spyder with 90,000 and at least 30,000 with mobil one in the engine. No problems.
I've a 2010 Chevy Camaro at 39,000 on the engine (Mobil one from day one). no problems.
no bad leaking problems on any of the cars (no drips in driveway).
So you calling Mobil One junk, is dumb.

To me you have nothing, You even put royal purple as better than Mobil One.

Dude you are one to be talking.