Meanest Sounding V6 Ever

[DSX_Camaro]

I will try to upload a video sometime soon. I just got mine done, 2.5" resonated x, step up to 3" and 3" all the way to dual 4" round mufflers and then 3.5" quad tips. It sounds amazing.

[BUZZCAMARO]

At first I had the Flowmaster axel back, than bought a Mag 11385, which did kill rasp, but with both of them overall just not loud enough.

Than I took off the 11385 and went back to only the Flowmaster axel back (40's)

Than thought it was again to raspy.

So I took off the flowmasters and put back the 11385 only with the factory pipes which include the resonators and end about at the rear axel. Drove it around going thru all the revs like this, and I think this is the sound I'm after but could probably be improved.

So if I use 11385, and get straight pipe installed in place of the factory pipes which have the resonators, I'm wondering how much louder this would be.

Right now with just the 11385 and factory pipes ending at the rear axel (nothing past that point)..it sound great, very retro hot rod sounding. But to get custom piping installed all the way from the 11385 that would be kinda expensive..so I hesitate. THe other alternative would be to just get a shop to install pipes from the ends of my factory pipes to the rear with tips on it.

Lastly, I could install a crack pipe in place of the H pipe, than I'd finally end my mods because I can't afford any of them, and may have to sell the car entirely.

[DJ ATOMIX]

Delete rear cats, get rid of resonators, add 3" piping.

[BUZZCAMARO]

Originally Posted by DJ ATOMIX

Delete rear cats, get rid of resonators, add 3" piping.

I'm wondering if those that have or have plans to get 3" pipe from the X to the rear, got stainless steel or the regular off the shelf stuff at Tuffy, Top Value or many of the other grocerery getter muffler shops. I went to a Top Value, and they said they don't use stainless steel, and I think they said that there machines can't bend it.

So, if the answer is stainless steel is the way to go, where in south-east michigan can I get it done, and yes, I've thought about MRT in Plymouth.

Thanks for your answer about if it's going to be too loud (DJ Atomix),..you say it is not evan as loud as the MRT 1 axel back. Humm... And btw, the basic tone I'm getting with the currant temporary set up has the glimmers of tone like yours... it is nice, I nailed it a few times and sounded very much like American muscle car, no rice whatsoever. Can't say that about any of the others I've tried.

One more question, is that steel plate that bolts to the body right after the H or Mag. 11385 supossed to touch or push up on them? I can't remember if it did before I did any mods, but it sure does now, in fact it pushes the pipes upwards about 2", allmost to heat sheilding.


Right after my initial installation of the Mag. 11385, I had some annoying rattle problems, I think it was the heat shield which I removed and bonded it in place with black expanding foam. Just around the edges, enough to mute it. Rattles at idle are gone, this really drove me nuts. The foam btw. is the kind made for building ponds, to hold the rocks together, about $15.00 per can at Lowes in the garden dept.

It's just like the yellow "Great Stuff" for insulation but this is treated to withstand constant water/moisture. I'm not suggesting everybody needs to do this, but if your plagued with rattles, it's probably the aluminum heat shielding, I also did portions of it around the heat shielding around the engine/transmission. I don't know if it will ever come loose from heat and moisture, but I do know it won't come off your fingers for about 3 weeks unless you get it off before it's dry (with acetone/nail polish remover). Wear gloves and eye protection.

[ryanb910]

Speaking of rattles I just did a res delete and I noticed that one of the pipes are touching the metal brace that goes across the heat shield. Can this be taken off or do I have to go back and get this fixed? I'm feeling like anyone who went the 3in way has had this problem as well. Help me. It sounds horrible

[BUZZCAMARO]

Originally Posted by ryanb910

Speaking of rattles I just did a res delete and I noticed that one of the pipes are touching the metal brace that goes across the heat shield. Can this be taken off or do I have to go back and get this fixed? I'm feeling like anyone who went the 3in way has had this problem as well. Help me. It sounds horrible

Until you get it fixed permanently, crawl under there and jamb a pot holder under there in between the pipes and the steel cross brace, if you have the 11385 that should dissipate enough heat so it won't burn up.

I can only hope somebody will give us expert advice about this, like I said in my previous post, I can't remember if that brace was up against the pipes before I jacked with it. I'm no mechanic but I can't imagine a car coming from the factory with that brace allowed to touch the exhaust, obviously for rattle reasons. If I get new pipes welded on at a good shop, bet they'd weld it up so it is suspended above the brace as well as below the bottom of the chassis.

Sorry I directed attention off of the subject of this exhaust set up to rattle problems, just trying to help. Perhaps this sub-topic is best left to threads about rattle problems.

[DJ ATOMIX]

Wow I never really thought of that issue. For the record I never got any rattle issues although the magnaflow res x is a pain to get to fit.

Im gonna have to crawl under and peak and see how mine was placed up there.

For 140 bucks it was worth every penny leaving this xpipe install to the pros.

[ryanb910]

Both my res x pipe and res delete was done professionally. I never had a rattling problem until the res delete, noticed it after taking a long drive. Not sure what happened but I looked under my car and could see the res x pipe was now crooked and not sitting flush with the car. Its hitting the cross bar where the right resonator use to be. I'll try a quick fix until I can go back and get it checked out.

[DSX_Camaro]

Depends. Delete the secondary cats and you'll get a bit more power and sound. Might smell a little fuel. But you still have the primary oem cats... hard to say.

[#1stunner]

Originally Posted by BUZZCAMARO

Until you get it fixed permanently, crawl under there and jamb a pot holder under there in between the pipes and the steel cross brace, if you have the 11385 that should dissipate enough heat so it won't burn up.

I can only hope somebody will give us expert advice about this, like I said in my previous post, I can't remember if that brace was up against the pipes before I jacked with it. I'm no mechanic but I can't imagine a car coming from the factory with that brace allowed to touch the exhaust, obviously for rattle reasons. If I get new pipes welded on at a good shop, bet they'd weld it up so it is suspended above the brace as well as below the bottom of the chassis.

Sorry I directed attention off of the subject of this exhaust set up to rattle problems, just trying to help. Perhaps this sub-topic is best left to threads about rattle problems.

when i got my exhaust put on the brace was hiting so he took it back down and put 2-3 washers at each corner of the brace to give me more clearance,and it worked great.the pipes should def. NOT be touching the brace.

[ryanb910]

Thats a great idea. I'm going to try that as soon as possible.

[BUZZCAMARO]

Originally Posted by #1stunner

when i got my exhaust put on the brace was hiting so he took it back down and put 2-3 washers at each corner of the brace to give me more clearance,and it worked great.the pipes should def. NOT be touching the brace.

Yeah, I think I did that too when I first put it on last fall, the bolts are really long, could add about 1/4" spacers.

BTW each clamp I had been using from Summit, the band type, weighs .75 lbs. Small amount of weight be it all adds up.

Question for those that did it already: Did they use stainless steel piping or aluminized steel which costs much less? I assume the stainless is the only thing that won't eventually rust out. As for weight, is there a significant weight loss from using aluminized steel?

I don't know what they used back in the 80's, but I had a car done at Meinike and the following year it had rusted thru.

Of lesser importance, did they use 3" pipe from the 2nd cat delete to the mag. res. x? If I had no answer, I'd just have them use 2.5 up to the Mag. res. x, and than 3" from there since the inlet and outlet are 2.5 and so is the factory pipes. I guess Magnaflow makes them with 3" Inlet/outlets also, idunno, but if they did, and you want 3" pipe, get that, than they don't need adaptors at each end, lots less welding.

[DJ ATOMIX]

I just used the common shop piping which is plain galvanized 3" pipe steel im assuming. Stainless steel was quoted at 1200 to do the custom piping which is overkill to me. I can replace this piping 4 times for that cost.

[DJ ATOMIX]

Originally Posted by BUZZCAMARO

Yeah, I think I did that too when I first put it on last fall, the bolts are really long, could add about 1/4" spacers.

BTW each clamp I had been using from Summit, the band type, weighs .75 lbs. Small amount of weight be it all adds up.

Question for those that did it already: Did they use stainless steel piping or aluminized steel which costs much less? I assume the stainless is the only thing that won't eventually rust out. As for weight, is there a significant weight loss from using aluminized steel?


I don't know what they used back in the 80's, but I had a car done at Meinike and the following year it had rusted thru.

Of lesser importance, did they use 3" pipe from the 2nd cat delete to the mag. res. x? If I had no answer, I'd just have them use 2.5 up to the Mag. res. x, and than 3" from there since the inlet and outlet are 2.5 and so is the factory pipes. I guess Magnaflow makes them with 3" Inlet/outlets also, idunno, but if they did, and you want 3" pipe, get that, than they don't need adaptors at each end, lots less welding.

If I remember correctly the 3" magnaflow x wont fit in the cavity. The 2.5inch version barely fits as it is.