Masking off windows & panel sections on the Camaro

[mynetdude]

Ok so I noticed the 2014 Camaro has a channel on the sides of the window and the top (except the bottom) I've never seen this with older cars and then I realized my 2014 pickup is the same way as in the frame doesn't meet up to the window like it does at the top & bottom as it would on older cars.

So... how the heck do I mask the sides? The idea is to keep the polish off the rubber or the polish from drying up (yeah I made that mistake once already, this stuff is so chalky when it dries, its a PITA to remove it (I had to take a razer blade to the seals affected and it didn't even get most of it out; probably will end up having to reseal the windows someday.

The back window has the same issue but the channels aren't as deep/wide but I think I'm masking it wrong; I'm putting the tape to the frame side rather than to the rubber side which is still exposed and that kind of defeats the point right?

I'm trying to avoid putting tape on the window itself as I'd like to go from edge to edge. Which brings me to my next question about masking off panels, hood/trunk lines; I'm going to be doing some claying/waxing/etc and I read that it would be a good idea to mask off the crevices so that product does not get in between but then that means the tape covers up area that should be masked or do I need to mask at all? Or is there a better way to remove window polish residue (its white and that stuff is like chalk when it dries).

[Homer2]

yup.. peanut butter takes it right off... the oils do.

[mynetdude]

Originally Posted by Homer2

yup.. peanut butter takes it right off... the oils do.

any kind of oil (aside from motor oil) such as olive oil? Cooking/canola oil? How does it take it off if its stuck under the seals? (that's the whole idea of masking off the rubbers right?)

What about masking off the crevices in between the panels, I kinda don't think this should be done if I want to be able to polish what's under the tape unless the polish will bleed through the tape (I read about the blue painters tape vs vehicle masking tape, painter's tape has a waterproof chemical compound to prevent paint from transferring through the tape that leaves a residue on the rubber seals).

Oh yeah I know that getting it off the paint is easy after the DA splatters it everywhere

[mynetdude]

just tried Meguiars water spot remover; it doesn't chalk up nearly as bad as duragloss 755 but then it also didn't really help with some of the water spots either so I took some claybar and I think that did the trick for it.

[DylanVK]

As far as masking the trim - sometimes you need a couple different widths of tape in your aresenal to get all the trim masked off, so venture to the hardware store and get a few different sizes to make it easier.

The bigger issue here is that it sounds like you are using WAY too much product in your correction process. Once the polish is thinned on the pad you shouldn't have this big of a concern of product caking up in gaps - maybe take a look at your process and how you're using the products.

Lastly, the peanut butter thing - this is a tip thats been floating around the new for years and the truth of the matter is it doesn't 'remove' the polish. It simply wets it with peanut oil and hides it. Once the oils are gone and the polish residue dries again you'll see the stains return.

The PROPER way to remove issues like this is with a degreaser/all purpose cleaner product and if its a textured/porous surface a soft bristle brush (toothbrush will work) in short circular strokes. Once its fully cleaned, flush the area well with water and then apply a quality water based trim protectant.

A tip you can use is to actually dress all the trim BEFORE you get into polish - by having a heavy coating of trim dressing on the material theres a barrier between it and the polish, so without masking, even if you hit those areas, the residue is easy to remove. Polish hitting dry trim- the material will suck up the polish and hold onto it.

[mynetdude]

Originally Posted by Dylan@SCG

As far as masking the trim - sometimes you need a couple different widths of tape in your aresenal to get all the trim masked off, so venture to the hardware store and get a few different sizes to make it easier.

The bigger issue here is that it sounds like you are using WAY too much product in your correction process. Once the polish is thinned on the pad you shouldn't have this big of a concern of product caking up in gaps - maybe take a look at your process and how you're using the products.

Lastly, the peanut butter thing - this is a tip thats been floating around the new for years and the truth of the matter is it doesn't 'remove' the polish. It simply wets it with peanut oil and hides it. Once the oils are gone and the polish residue dries again you'll see the stains return.

The PROPER way to remove issues like this is with a degreaser/all purpose cleaner product and if its a textured/porous surface a soft bristle brush (toothbrush will work) in short circular strokes. Once its fully cleaned, flush the area well with water and then apply a quality water based trim protectant.

A tip you can use is to actually dress all the trim BEFORE you get into polish - by having a heavy coating of trim dressing on the material theres a barrier between it and the polish, so without masking, even if you hit those areas, the residue is easy to remove. Polish hitting dry trim- the material will suck up the polish and hold onto it.

You have some valid/good points which all make sense.

I understand this stuff is supposed to get messy; what isn't? I used some black new/renew stuff on all my black trim (its supposed to be for plastic, but it works good on rubber too) and I recently just got done polishing and it has been made easier to remove the polish.

Its not the visible part of the trim I have concerns about, its getting under the trim where its caking up at but for some reason this time around that hasn't been an issue due to the black renew I applied to it.

I did try an APC, I didn't use a degreaser because they say not to use it on paint so I didn't want to use it near painted surfaces. But again, the issue is behind the trim not ON it where the product gets stuck between the window and the window seal/trim.

I finally got the water spots removed after trying two different polishes and two different pads; the window polishing specific pads do not do the job at all (ok FWIW it does a good job if you're not trying to remove water spots that is)

I ended up using a medium cut pad and voila! I honestly don't think I need the window pads except its nice to use so that I don't have to immediately clean the medium cut pad when I change products/projects unless I need it to remove water spots but I shouldn't after today because I will never use a water based washing on my Camaro.

[DylanVK]

Originally Posted by mynetdude

Its not the visible part of the trim I have concerns about, its getting under the trim where its caking up at but for some reason this time around that hasn't been an issue due to the black renew I applied to it.

This still points to maybe having too much product on the pads. Less is more when it comes to almost any process in detailing and if you're machine polishing process is leading to product caked up behind/under trim you are likely using too much polish.

Not only will it give you the issue you're having with it caking up in the gaps, but you're also not seeing the results you should. Too much polish prevents the pad from doing its job by over saturating the surface.

Just some food for thought. Glad it sounds you got some of it figured out though.

[mynetdude]

Originally Posted by Dylan@SCG

This still points to maybe having too much product on the pads. Less is more when it comes to almost any process in detailing and if you're machine polishing process is leading to product caked up behind/under trim you are likely using too much polish.

Not only will it give you the issue you're having with it caking up in the gaps, but you're also not seeing the results you should. Too much polish prevents the pad from doing its job by over saturating the surface.

Just some food for thought. Glad it sounds you got some of it figured out though.

Good points

I also read that rather than trying to use too much product, spray water as you're polishing to make it last longer; though I don't believe no matter how little product I use some of the product ends up in the crevices around the front windshield and I wished they would have kept using the older type of seal where they would seal the gap between the frame and the window (well they do still, but its deeper rather than right on top).

Water just makes it VERY VERY messy naturally so.

[lbls1]

I don't tape the edges of the door, trunk or hood (if this is what you are asking). I will mask off large areas that could get residue or dust (cowl area under front windshield). Occasionally you may get some dust that will fall in between the hood and trunk edges. Its also a good practice to have a set of detailing brushes that you can use to clear up any residual polish or dust that likes to get in between seams.

Make sure that you tape the trim that will likely get stained from polishing, such as window trim, emblems, marker lamps, front and tail lenses, and any other edging to trim that could get damaged. Its tedious, but your work will look better without the nuisance of stained trim.