'14 AGM 1SS/1LE Track build [COTW 11/17/14]

[X25]

Hoosier has just released R7 in 315/30/19 size:
http://www.hoosierdirect.com/New_19_..._A7_Sizes.html
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showth...25#post8002725

This could definitely be a good alternative, if it indeed lasts much longer than R6s..

Diameter: 26.4"
Circumference: 83.1"
Weight: 27 pounds
Width Section: 12.6"
Width Tread: 12.4"
Required Rim Width: 11.0 - 12.0"
Manufacturer's Product Number: R46937R7

http://competitionmotorsport.com/R7-...19-46937R7.htm

[Synner]

You'd definitely benefit from camber plates and will likely want them anyways to dial in your tire wear/temps. It also helps you maintain tire to strut clearance when running high camber numbers.

I would start with the Z28 sways since you're doing the complete package and similar tire size/treadwear, the Z suspension is already known as incredibly stiff.

[X25]

Just finished installing the engine oil cooler, and the headers. The oil cooler takes quite a bit of time, most of it to ensure everything is done properly (since it is critical in this project).

I wrote a long how-to here:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=381050

I also replaced the diff fluid while it was easier to get to (since the muffler is out). As expected, the fluid looked very dirty, and both fill and drain plugs were completely swamped with metal soup. I always see this kind of stuff from the first change, so I think most of this is due to break-in.

This is supposedly diff oil:

Magnetic plugs completely covered with stuff.

When it's clean:


One thing that upset me is the O2 sensor locations of the Texas Speed headers. It is pretty much getting most of the readings from only one of the cylinders:



The steering column's booth is pretty close, but is not touching. Do I need to remove it?


Weight:
OEM header 23.6 lbs
TSP LT + Cat = 20.8 lbs

[X25]

Update:
Z/28 suspension has arrived! I decided to not get to it before the weekend track day, though. I don't want to run into last minute issues. The crate was listed 300 lbs!


Headers were very easy to install, yet I've had such a hard time installing the rest. I was sure I cut the stock muffler wrong, and brought it to a local muffler shop. It turns out the x-pipe does not have the right angle the piping to get into the tunnel. If you take a close look, you indeed see a good angle in one side of the x-pipe, yet the other side goes flat and does not make that angle. This has pretty much erased my confidence in Texas Speed products. Yet, I have to say the header fitment seemed to be perfect.



The muffler shop will custom-build an x-pipe + mid-pipe for me tomorrow, so the exhaust will be tucked in. As is, I cannot install the bridge back, and I hate reducing stiffness of cars I go to track with.

By the way, the shop asked $350 for the custom-made piping (for perfect fitment). I found it reasonable.

[X25]

Legend: Planned | Procured | Installed

• Engine / Powertrain
  • TSP 304 LT Headers with custom 3" X Pipe (custom; TSP's own header did not fit perfect) - $1009.98 + $173.75 = $1183.73 shipped.
    
  • Improved Racing oil pan baffle.
  • DEI heat wraps / coil boots - $100 shipped.
  • 2000 degrees F matte-gray exhaust coating.
  • Diablosport Intune w/ custom tune from FSP - $489 shipped.
    
  • DeWitts radiator - $575 shipped.
  • Improved Racing oil cooler with Setrab Series 1 / 72 rows.
  • 2000 degrees F matte-gray exhaust coating.
  • BMR engine mounts - $259 shipped.
• Interior
  • Schroth Racing RallyE 3 ASM - $179.95.
• Handling
  • Z/28 suspension package . $3449 shipped.
    
    • Front/Rear DSSV struts
    • Front/Rear sway bars with end links
    • Front control arms
    • Rear upper and lower arms
  • BMR BK024 Cradle Bushings
  • BMR BK018 Front Lower Control Arm Bushings
  • Hankook Ventus R-S3 305/30/19 for daily driving
  • Pirelli Trofeo R, Hoosier R7, or similar 305/30/19 for track duty
  • Forgestar CF5V 19"x11" (+17, +40 offsets) spin forged for track duty.
  • APEX ARC-8 19x10.5 +22 spin forged wheels for daily driving / rain.
• Brakes
  • Quantum - Competition Brake Cooling Kit - $239.95.
    • Naca ducts: $20.
  • Cobalt Friction XR1 Front (CRB-XR1-D1001-15.3MM) - $281.3 shipped (COBALT5 coupon code).
  • Cobalt Friction XR2 Rear (CRB-XR2-D592-15.0MM-R) - $230 shipped (COBALT5 coupon code).
  • Stock front rotor (92245928) - $69.45 shipped x2.
    
  • Stock rear rotor (92245929) - $85.31 shipped x2.
• Misc.
  • Blown smart-fuse for skip-shift - $1.
  • HSA elimination - $80 shipped.

[X25]

I finally got the crappy x-pipe replaced by a custom one that tucks inside the tunnel. People say they are very happy with Texas Speed kits, but I had multiple issues (wrong angled x-pipe, one header outlet being too small for the cat to have snug fit, and I don't like the location of O2 bung).




The TSP pipes

[L99CAMA2011]

Originally Posted by X25

I finally got the crappy x-pipe replaced by a custom one that tucks inside the tunnel. People say they are very happy with Texas Speed kits, but I had multiple issues (wrong angled x-pipe, one header outlet being too small for the cat to have snug fit, and I don't like the location of O2 bung).




The TSP pipes

you'd be surprised of how many crappy products are rated as good on here that are actually made wrong.

[X25]

Just got back from the track, and got to test the oil cooler!

EDIT: Ignore the oil temp conclusions below. I was being fed fake oil temp data from fake OEM oil temp sensor.

• I forgot the rain shield under the hood scoop in first 2 sessions. The impact to the oil temp was about 5 degrees F.
• Having a separate oil cooler seems to be helping radiator a bit. The coolant temps vere almost no different than regular driving temps. The most I saw was 210 degrees if I recall correctly. This also helps the transmission. The most I saw was about 230 degrees.
• When I first tried the car at this (same) track last month, I was able to hit 280+ degrees after 4-5 laps. Within the same time-frame, I hit about 260 degrees with the new oil cooler. However, the oil temps kept climbing as I kept lapping.
• Since it was an open track day, I decided to do a torture test. I started a session and had no breaks or cool-down laps for about 20 laps (~40 minutes).
• During the torture test, the oil temp seemed to stabilize at about 284-285 degrees. It never went above that.
• During cool-down laps, the cooler shed about 30 degrees F off oil temp per lap.

So, here you go, it definitely helps, but I think it's still a bit disappointing. For the climate I run my cars in (Pacific Northwest), this should be sufficient, but if I were to live in Arizona or somewhere else with a similar climate, I'd install the OEM cooler back, and install this cooler with (1) an oil filter relocation kit and (2) oil filter sandwich with thermostat instead. That way, both radiator and the oil cooler can work on the oil.

This torture test also had other consequences:
(1) G:2 tires after the event:


(2) Front brake calipers after the event:


(3) Brake fade! (Move on to next post)

[X25]

The good:
GoodYear G:2s are a class or two better than the Pilot Super Slows I've used last time. These tires don't easily overheat like the Michelin tires do, but they eventually do if you try hard : )

I dropped my lap time quite a bit with the oil cooler (since I don't need to give too much attention to oil anymore) and G:2 stock tires! My best time with this car dropped from 2:02.12 with PSS to 1:58.23 with the G:2s:


The bad:
Brake fade! The torture test was perhaps a bit too much for the brakes even though I have cooling ducts. Around 20th lap, the pedal started feeling mushy. I did not bleed the brakes again after the first event, so I wonder if that also contributed to the issue, but any decent brake set-up outside of real racing should hold up for at least two events, so it is disappointing.


Cobalt pads: I think ST43s are a bit better than Cobalt pads. These pads (XR1 at front, and XR2 at rear) allowed a bit more compression in comparison. They started squeaking a bit at the street after the track day, but they never scream, so at least they are usable for street in my eyes : )

Decisions:
The stock brakes are not good enough even after the ducting. My options are:

• Titanium shims to block heat
  • The pads survived the heat, evidenced by perfect stopping power once I started pumping the brakes.
  • Therefore, keeping the heat from the calipers might remedy the issue.
  • This is the cheapest, but also least promising solution.
• Wilwood BBK 14.25" with Thermolock pistons
  • Most affordable BBK, but the piston option cannot be bought from most vendors, so I probably can't get the cheapest price.
  • Should cost around $2000 with upgrades, etc.
  • 14.25" is just too small in my opinion in comparison to other BBKs.
  • I estimate that the rotor with the hat and all necessary hardware would weigh about 23 lbs (stock is 25.15 lbs).
• StopTech ST60 BBK with 15" rotors.
  • This kit's rotor weight with all the hardware and hat is 21.2 lbs! This means 4 lbs weight savings per rotor compared to OEM SS, and almost 6.5 lbs savings compared to ZL1 brakes.
  • The rotor is 15"; should no doubt provide ample cooling capacity.
  • The replacement ring can be had for $220; pretty affordable.
  • Total caliper weight is also similar to stock SS despite having 6 pistons.
• CTS-V brakes
  • Proven to work
  • Heaviest option, even though smaller than StopTechs at 14.6".
  • Cheapest after the Titanium shim idea.

I decided to go with StopTech. I ordered the kit tonight! This should get my un-sprung and rotating suspension weight much closer to Z/28 specs.

[L99CAMA2011]

Isn't that 4 second difference because of your header install?

[Firefighter]

You might also think about the upgraded pistons and boots for your stock Brembo brakes that are offered by Racing Brakes.

These are also an option for the CTS-V set up also.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[X25]

Originally Posted by L99CAMA2011

Isn't that 4 second difference because of your header install?

I was not able to get it tuned before the track day, so HP increase should be limited. I think G:2 tires and oil cooler just allowed me to concentrate on the turns and improve my time without having to have a cool down lap every few laps : )

[X25]

Originally Posted by Firefighter

You might also think about the upgraded pistons and boots for your stock Brembo brakes that are offered by Racing Brakes.

These are also an option for the CTS-V set up also.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

That sounds like a great option!

[Firefighter]

It amounts to $315 per axle. That's boots and seals. I would almost rather do the CTS-V set up in front and see how that works. Then if necessary do the piston/seal upgrade.

I have the CTS-V upgrade and love them. I track a little not like you but they are rock solid.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk