What is the next bolt on, if any?

[GONIF]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Im not running a catch can. Some need to but mine does fine without it.

I agree 100%.

[j.curt]

Originally Posted by Apex Motorsports

This is a comment that is often made by people who have never modified their suspension. When you add power but do not do anything to plant that power, yes you feel it but you are leaving performance on the table. You have to be able to apply that power to the pavement.

One of our local guys kept adding power to his SS and got to the point that his 1/4 mile personal best was an 10.9. We did a rear suspension package and his very first pass after that was a 10.7 followed by a 10.6.

Thanks APEX! Can you message me some quotes of what you suggest for suspension mods?

[Apex Motorsports]

Originally Posted by j.curt

Thanks APEX! Can you message me some quotes of what you suggest for suspension mods?

On the way.

[j.curt]

Originally Posted by j.curt

I have a 2012 SS 6 spd manual. Current mods are:

BTR Stage 2 cam
Long Tube Headers
RotoFab CAI
VMax ported TB
Apex race scoop
MGW Short Shifter
BMR lowering springs
BMR Trailing Arms
Dyno Tune

Is there anything else out there that is worth the money or is forced induction my best bet?

With my current mods, would upgrading my exhaust be beneficial? I have the long tube headers and no cats. Everything behind the cats is stock.

[45thCAMARO 2SS/RS]

Originally Posted by j.curt

With my current mods, would upgrading my exhaust be beneficial? I have the long tube headers and no cats. Everything behind the cats is stock.

Realistically 1-2hp but nothing noticeable, but you will notice a better exhaust tone because of exhaust. Also as a bonus you will lose roughly 40lbs of weight by getting rid of stock cat-back

[AG454]

Originally Posted by j.curt

I have a 2012 SS 6 spd manual. Current mods are:

BTR Stage 2 cam
Long Tube Headers
RotoFab CAI
VMax ported TB
Apex race scoop
MGW Short Shifter
BMR lowering springs
Dyno Tune

Is there anything else out there that is worth the money or is forced induction my best bet?

By far the next best mod for you is 4:10 or at least 3:91 rear gears. You will thank me.

[thirdleft152]

I agree with most of the people here. Suspension is a must. I'm about to upgrade mine as well. Right after I get a nasty cam

[avido]

Originally Posted by Bo White

Ported heads and rod mod the intake manifold.

what the heck is that rod mod?

[Joseph1LE]

I see you have a 6 speed. A light weight clutch and flywheel set up and light weight wheels would yield far more benefit than any other bolt on modification (unless you are bolting on some boost...). As if it wasn't bad enough that GM made these cars stupidly heavy in terms of dry weight, they also decided to kill it with way too much rotating mass. 20 inch wheels, 60lb clutch flywheel set up, heavy two piece driveshaft. It definitely hurts. Reducing rotating mass yields great real world gains on the track, not just the dyno. It's absolutely mind blowing how clueless people on this forum are to this issue... It seems people are more concerned with having a dyno queen than a car that actually runs at it's max potential for the power it makes.

A good twin disk clutch with a lightweight aluminum flywheel will drop an easy 20lbs over the stock set up. That is significant. You can drop even more with different clutch/flywheel combos (for example Mcleod RXT with Fidanza 12.9lb flywheel= 33lbs total) and also depending on how much you want to spend. Then your choice of wheels. The stock cast wheels weigh somewhere over 30lbs... Meanwhile aftermarket Welds, Racestars, Bogarts, ect. will weigh in the low 20s in 17 or 18 inch configuration. So you can drop 10lbs of rotating mass from each wheel for a total of 40lbs in addition to your 20lbs+ dropped from the new clutch. Then if you want you can add a carbon fiber 1 piece driveshaft and drop even more weight.

You would absolutely blow people away cause your car would be running MUCH better than the average cammed 5th gen. People are all about peak HP on this forum and I rarely ever see people talking about things like this such as rotating mass, power under the curve, ect. Peak HP isn't everything. However I do agree with those suggesting suspension, definitely need that to cure wheel hop and cut consistent good 60fts. Dropping dry weight from the car is also a good thing to do if you can drop enough of it.

[j.curt]

Thanks, I am looking for the fastest time down the quarter mile track and not just high HP numbers. I would like to get down to a low 12, high 11's without going FI.

[thirdleft152]

Originally Posted by Joseph1LE

I see you have a 6 speed. A light weight clutch and flywheel set up and light weight wheels would yield far more benefit than any other bolt on modification (unless you are bolting on some boost...). As if it wasn't bad enough that GM made these cars stupidly heavy in terms of dry weight, they also decided to kill it with way too much rotating mass. 20 inch wheels, 60lb clutch flywheel set up, heavy two piece driveshaft. It definitely hurts. Reducing rotating mass yields great real world gains on the track, not just the dyno. It's absolutely mind blowing how clueless people on this forum are to this issue... It seems people are more concerned with having a dyno queen than a car that actually runs at it's max potential for the power it makes.

A good twin disk clutch with a lightweight aluminum flywheel will drop an easy 20lbs over the stock set up. That is significant. You can drop even more with different clutch/flywheel combos (for example Mcleod RXT with Fidanza 12.9lb flywheel= 33lbs total) and also depending on how much you want to spend. Then your choice of wheels. The stock cast wheels weigh somewhere over 30lbs... Meanwhile aftermarket Welds, Racestars, Bogarts, ect. will weigh in the low 20s in 17 or 18 inch configuration. So you can drop 10lbs of rotating mass from each wheel for a total of 40lbs in addition to your 20lbs+ dropped from the new clutch. Then if you want you can add a carbon fiber 1 piece driveshaft and drop even more weight.

You would absolutely blow people away cause your car would be running MUCH better than the average cammed 5th gen. People are all about peak HP on this forum and I rarely ever see people talking about things like this such as rotating mass, power under the curve, ect. Peak HP isn't everything. However I do agree with those suggesting suspension, definitely need that to cure wheel hop and cut consistent good 60fts. Dropping dry weight from the car is also a good thing to do if you can drop enough of it.

You do realize that adding engine horsepower is significantly cheaper than spending money on reducing rotating mass?

Not trying to say your opinion isn't valid, because it is. Power under the curve is definitely something to shoot for. But that could also be obtained with some engine work.

[Pro Stock John]

3.91's and drag radials.

[Joseph1LE]

Originally Posted by thirdleft152

You do realize that adding engine horsepower is significantly cheaper than spending money on reducing rotating mass?

Not trying to say your opinion isn't valid, because it is. Power under the curve is definitely something to shoot for. But that could also be obtained with some engine work.

I understand there is money involved, especially with the wheels. But gota pay to play. And they yield more benefit than any of the bolt ons he hasnt done yet. He said in the post above hes looking for the fastest 1/4 mile time he can get. If he has the money to spend, then dropping rotating weight is the way to go. As well as suspension like others have suggested. Those are going to make a much bigger difference than a intake rod mod or a UD pulley or whatever. I am fully aware there is a larger cost but he hasn't mentioned anything about having a budget so I figured Id throw in my two cents.

[j.curt]

Thank you everyone for your input. Unfortunately I am on a budget being I just installed the cam not too long ago. I just bought the BMR trailing arms but haven't had a chance to install them yet. I was looking at the rear cradle bushings but the instructions say 4-5 hours install time, which would probably take me closer to 7 hours. That is a lot of time for some rubber bushings.