Any truth to the break in rumor?

[MikosV6]

Originally Posted by CamaroCracka

For the record, I was more advocating that anyone who wants to do a hard break in should read up on the topic and not just on Camaro5. I cannot recall a single time I followed advice about vehicle performance without knowing the theory behind it and knowing the reason why is what I really recommend for the OP or anyone else. Once you know why, you can make an educated decision on whether or not the juice is worth the squeeze.

The same principles apply to the factory engines as ones with aftermarket parts, just more so for modified engines since they generally use different rings.

If you want to get 300k out of your LS3, the factory recommendations are probably the best way to go. Certainly they are the path of least risk which why the factory recommends them.

The factory also recommends running that Dexos oil blend crap and they don't mention running a catch can to keep the valves from coking up, especially on the DI engines.

Does that mean the factory way is still the best way to go?

The factory only cares about the warranty which is 5 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first, on the powertrain. After that, you are on your own. I don't know about you, but I want my engine to last longer than 60K miles and 300K miles is a heck of a lot more than that.

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by MikosV6

The factory also recommends running that Dexos oil blend crap and they don't mention running a catch can to keep the valves from coking up, especially on the DI engines.

Does that mean the factory way is still the best way to go?

Exactly what is 'crappy' about the Dexos spec?

I'm only looking at driving that's consistent with a reasonable break-in regimen for that length of time here, not 'drive it like you stole it' and going straight from the dealer's lot to the dragstrip levels of use/abuse. After that, when your driving gets to where Chevy might well claim abuse, sure, you might want to run something known to be better under those conditions.

About the catch can - I doubt that Chevy recommends against it either.


Norm

[CamaroCracka]

Originally Posted by MikosV6

The factory also recommends running that Dexos oil blend crap and they don't mention running a catch can to keep the valves from coking up, especially on the DI engines.

Does that mean the factory way is still the best way to go?

The factory only cares about the warranty which is 5 years or 60K miles, whichever comes first, on the powertrain. After that, you are on your own. I don't know about you, but I want my engine to last longer than 60K miles and 300K miles is a heck of a lot more than that.

To some extent the factory is only worried about getting an engine to warranty, but they also don't want their cars to have a reputation of falling apart after warranty like they did in the 70s. One example of their concern is the requirement for factory parts to survive their 100,000 mile use test.

I know that my wife's Cummins had a 100k powertrain warranty, but the rebuild interval (the point at which they recommend you have the engine disassembled, refreshed and reinstalled so you can keep on reliably using it) is spec'd at 350k. That would indicate, Cummins is surely interested in seeing their engines run far past 100k, probably because it would adversely affect their reputation if they did not.

I should have been a little more specific on the 300k mark as I was more referring to the LS series engines which have proven to be ultra-reliable (I have one at 160k that has been excessively abused in the mud). I have no idea what the DI V6 will do as it is still to early to know, but I don't really care either as I don't intend to own one.

As far as catch can paranoia, I'm pretty sure GM has a recommended upper intake cleaning interval that will do fine for the vast majority of their customers. Now, one might choose to run a catch can rather than pay them to do the upper intake cleaning, and that is probably the smarter decision with DI engines. However, factory recommendations generally work best for the average customer. If one wants to get educated about mechanics and make their own decisions about how best to treat their vehicle, then there is nothing stopping that and that is what I recommended twice already.

Nonetheless, doing a hard break-in or installing a catch can just because some guys, most with limited mechanical ability and understanding, recommend it would seem to me to be foolish. When I see something on Camaro5 that seems smart or cool, I do some homework on the topic. That is what I would recommend for everyone.

[MikosV6]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

Exactly what is 'crappy' about the Dexos spec?

I'm only looking at driving that's consistent with a reasonable break-in regimen for that length of time here, not 'drive it like you stole it' and going straight from the dealer's lot to the dragstrip levels of use/abuse. After that, when your driving gets to where Chevy might well claim abuse, sure, you might want to run something known to be better under those conditions.

About the catch can - I doubt that Chevy recommends against it either.


Norm

Well, it's cheaper (for them at the factory) to run a synthetic "blend" than a true full synthetic like Mobil 1 like they already put in the Corvette. Of course, I certainly don't want to get into a blend versus full synthetic debate with you. I have enough problems trying to convince the V8 owners on here that V6er's have "real" Camaros too.lol!

However, if given the choice, I'm going to run a full synthetic in mine, not a blend. The advantages of running a full synthetic far outweigh the disadvantages. The Dexos blend is just GM's way of cost cutting at the plant for the factory oil fill.

They don't recommend against a catch can, but they don't promote it either. In fact, I've read that some dealers could give you problems with a powertrain warranty issue if you have one installed.

Everyone knows that D.I. engines are prone to intake valves coking up after so many miles on them. So, in turn, they get to profit off you for another service called the "induction service cleaning" procedure to get rid of something that wouldn't have occurred in the first place if you had a catch can.

[gajagfan]

This does not apply to everyone here....but not everything from a big business falls into the category of conspiracy theory!

[Norm Peterson]

Originally Posted by MikosV6

Well, it's cheaper (for them at the factory) to run a synthetic "blend" than a true full synthetic like Mobil 1 like they already put in the Corvette. Of course, I certainly don't want to get into a blend versus full synthetic debate with you. I have enough problems trying to convince the V8 owners on here that V6er's have "real" Camaros too.lol!
However, if given the choice, I'm going to run a full synthetic in mine, not a blend. The advantages of running a full synthetic far outweigh the disadvantages. The Dexos blend is just GM's way of cost cutting at the plant for the factory oil fill.

If it matters any, I'm supposed to be running 5W20 semi-syn, which I did for maybe 15,000 miles before stepping up to 5W30 full syn (same brand). Let's just say I came across a clear warning to not use 5W20 in a certain family of engines from somebody who was quite close to their development.

But I don't know anything about the Dexos spec, what it's intended to be specifically formulated for, or what it takes to get the Dexos approval or stamp.

They don't recommend against a catch can, but they don't promote it either. In fact, I've read that some dealers could give you problems with a powertrain warranty issue if you have one installed.

Of course they aren't going to be caught promoting something that they didn't put on the car on the way down the assembly line. That'd be begging for trouble, pure and simple.

Everyone knows that D.I. engines are prone to intake valves coking up after so many miles on them. So, in turn, they get to profit off you for another service called the "induction service cleaning" procedure to get rid of something that wouldn't have occurred in the first place if you had a catch can.

I suppose that would give their dealership service departments a little more ammunition to pressure folks into getting that and various other 'flushes' performed. Although it might be questionable to charge for doing so if emissions were adversely affected and the existence and payment responsibility for such cleaning not disclosed during the purchase process.


Norm

[MikosV6]

Originally Posted by Norm Peterson

If it matters any, I'm supposed to be running 5W20 semi-syn, which I did for maybe 15,000 miles before stepping up to 5W30 full syn (same brand). Let's just say I came across a clear warning to not use 5W20 in a certain family of engines from somebody who was quite close to their development.

But I don't know anything about the Dexos spec, what it's intended to be specifically formulated for, or what it takes to get the Dexos approval or stamp.


Of course they aren't going to be caught promoting something that they didn't put on the car on the way down the assembly line. That'd be begging for trouble, pure and simple.


I suppose that would give their dealership service departments a little more ammunition to pressure folks into getting that and various other 'flushes' performed. Although it might be questionable to charge for doing so if emissions were adversely affected and the existence and payment responsibility for such cleaning not disclosed during the purchase process.


Norm

Yes, I completely agree.

[Norm Peterson]

I did find this, just this morning. I'd known that there was a Dexos 1 and a Dexos 2 and that they might be North American- vs European-specific, but not much else beyond it being big money to get the official Dexos stamp (even though your particular oil might meet the tech specs).

Hope it helps people here, and I do find it intriguing that Dexos probably doesn't endorse the oil I'm supposed to be using solely on its viscosity numbers but might well be OK with the oil that I do.

Next round's on me


Norm

[Norm Peterson]

Somehow I doubt that 92 more posts is going to make any difference . . . or give people on either side of the discussion the answer that they're hoping to read.


Norm

[polizzio]

Originally Posted by jihgnbi

I've heard from a few people that told me the harder you drove your car during the break in period the more HP you will have after it's broke in. Is there any truth to this, or is it simply a rumor?

Why don't you read the entire thread here......its all been covered 3 or 4 times over.

[Camaro Dude]

Ok, time to put a spin on this thread, and let it all end here with this post ; ).

Break-in procedure for piston engine aircraft. Any pilots or aircraft mechanics on here?

Yes indeed, some of those engines have harder rings and cylinder bores, and yes, whilst they are low rpm/high BMEP, there is common ground here.

As I mentioned in a different post, the super highly sought after "ring seating" , occurs during heavier loads. The internal ring/piston temperature, is proportional to the duration of that load, and RPM's. This applies to both piston aircraft and automobile engines.

*The ultimate question here seems to be, what is the recommended duration of those heavy loads, and what is the RPM limit, that those loads are sustained at?

Guess what, the same question applies to piston aircraft owners as well.

Variations of the same theme seem to be presenting themselves here, and everywhere else.

Just like the Caramilk secret, we may never truly know the answer,