11-26-2016, 06:16 PM | #1 |
SStevo
Drives: 2011 SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 6
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Starter clicks then starts, cruise control disconnecting
2011 Camaro SS 6-speed:
So I turn the key and get "click, click" then it starts. The battery was getting old so I bought a new one. Same problem, got the new battery checked and it is fine (actually even a few more amps than rated) and the alternator was around 14v. Almost every time (not always), there are a couple clicks but it always starts. Also, as I am driving down the road with cruise control set, it keeps unsetting. It doesn't turn off, it just acts as if I have touched the brake or clutch. I was thinking that something was wrong with the brake or clutch switches but now I am getting a "service security system" fault from time to time so I am starting to wonder if all these things could be connected. Or my car is just falling apart at 39k miles. Anyone with these experiences? |
11-26-2016, 10:34 PM | #2 |
Drives: 2014 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 793
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You have a ground loose somewhere. Has anyone touched the car lately?
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11-27-2016, 12:43 AM | #3 | |
Drives: Miss Con Ception Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,998
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Quote:
Usually the negative collects the most crap.
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2011 1SS/RS LS3 CGM
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11-27-2016, 12:54 AM | #4 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Triple Black Vert M6 #5591 Join Date: May 2013
Location: Galloway,NJ
Posts: 747
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After checking for loose wires if all good. I'm leaning toward having the starter checked. Do u have headers?
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695 RWHP / 660 RWTQ @ 13.5 PSI
Dyna-Tech Headers Ceramic Coated w/Super Flo Cats, JRE Custom Rough Idle Racing Cam Package and 125 RWHP Pulley Kit w/ 28% pulley, Custom Tune by Ted, ID850 injectors, JMS Fuel Booster, NGK Plugs, MSD Plug Wires, Roto-Fab CAI, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Elite Catch Can, Mild to Wild, 90mm VMaxx Ported Throttle Body, Skip Shift Elim., D3 Coolant Resevoir, Separated Clutch Resevoir, and Fuzzy Red Dice.. |
11-27-2016, 01:54 AM | #5 |
Drives: LT W/2LT,blue metallic Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: central florida
Posts: 4,935
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to me it points to a loose or dirty battery connection.my old pontiac used to do the click then start thing when the terminals on the battery were not right.the cruise control and security system are probably reacting to the bad connection and once you find and fix it they should return to normal.id start by cleaning a securing battery terminals and checking your engine grounds if that doesnt fix it.
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11-30-2016, 11:00 PM | #6 |
SStevo
Drives: 2011 SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 6
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I was thinking about grounds somewhere. I checked all over the underside of the car. The battery cable ends look brand new but I'll probably take them off and look at the inside of the clamp for good measure.
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12-01-2016, 07:44 PM | #7 |
Got Boost?
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS M6 SLP TVS 2300 Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 404
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I've had the same issue, it's a ground, check all your engine grounds.
sent from the middle of nowhere, Pacific ocean
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2011 1SS/RS M6
MOD List: SLP 2300 Supercharged, Flowmaster AT Cat back, aux 4 guage cluster, 12" kicker sub and Kicker Zx400.1 amp, PFADT Lowering springs CAI Inc. CAI, Hurst Short throw shifter, JBA 1 7/8 Long tube headers. Future Mods: 416ci stroker. |
12-01-2016, 07:49 PM | #8 |
Ret AF, cancer survivor
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS/RS & 2006 Corvette Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Mesquite, NV
Posts: 2,741
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Agree with other's; it's a bad ground or battery connection. Had a very similar problem with my wife's old '92 Camaro and it turned out to be a bad negative battery cable.
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12-01-2016, 07:54 PM | #9 |
Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Riverside, CA
Posts: 4,018
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Engine ground locations. #2, #4, and #5 are ground locations:
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=221700 |
12-03-2016, 06:46 AM | #10 |
Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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Hi. Not a bad question re: headers but usually the engine will be hard to start in general rather than a solenoid click, but not on the first start of the day. The headers heat-soak the starter so after driving a while and you say, stop for fuel, the engine will crank and crank and crank.
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12-18-2016, 08:45 PM | #11 |
SStevo
Drives: 2011 SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 6
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Thank you for the diagram. I checked all the grounds but everything was fine. I do not have headers. I do have a whipple supercharger but I do not know if that would have anything to do with it except maybe increasing the load on the starter. I think the next step is to swap the starter.
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12-18-2016, 09:14 PM | #12 |
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Triple Black Vert M6 #5591 Join Date: May 2013
Location: Galloway,NJ
Posts: 747
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Keep us posted I'm really interested if it solves the issue.
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695 RWHP / 660 RWTQ @ 13.5 PSI
Dyna-Tech Headers Ceramic Coated w/Super Flo Cats, JRE Custom Rough Idle Racing Cam Package and 125 RWHP Pulley Kit w/ 28% pulley, Custom Tune by Ted, ID850 injectors, JMS Fuel Booster, NGK Plugs, MSD Plug Wires, Roto-Fab CAI, Roto-Fab Big Gulp, Elite Catch Can, Mild to Wild, 90mm VMaxx Ported Throttle Body, Skip Shift Elim., D3 Coolant Resevoir, Separated Clutch Resevoir, and Fuzzy Red Dice.. |
12-19-2016, 11:29 PM | #13 |
SStevo
Drives: 2011 SS Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Lancaster, CA
Posts: 6
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Solved
So I jump in the car this morning gritting my teeth in mental preparation for the clickclickstart, but the car started right up. I didn't think much of it as every now and again it would have a lucky shot. After the next stop it started right up again, and another stop it started right up again.
In my previous post from last night I stated that I had checked all the grounds. When I saw the diagram I was so excited and just sure I would find something, but all the grounds were on and tight as anything. What I forgot to add in my post was that upon checking the main ground cable (4 and 5 in the diagram); with growing frustration and hate in my heart I grabbed a fist full of that cable and jerked the hell out of it. I did not feel it budge as it was super tight. I closed the hood and gave up for the night. I recalled that event today and deduced that the problem must of been at that ground, and jarring the cable as I did allowed it make better connection. So I removed the engine side of the cable (which I want to reiterate, was tight) and could see that it had been arcing trying to find a better connection. I wire bushed the stud, cable end, and even the nut. Now all is well. The car will bump start 10/10 times and the cruise control did not disconnect once on the way to work. I also noted that the volt meter is pegged at 14v and never moves as opposed to floating between 12.5 and 14 as it was before. Thanks to everyone for the tips! |
12-19-2016, 11:50 PM | #14 |
Drives: 2023 SS 1LE 10SPD/2015 SS 427 Man Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Sacramento Area
Posts: 803
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It's hard to tell from the picture but does it look like its been arching on the eye of that ground cable? Now, I've seen a dozen cars in the past few years with similar issues as well as several other odd voltage/grounding probs. We found that removing that stud from the head or block, then put the ground cable eye FIRST, against the motor, sandwiching it between the fixed nut on the stud and the head or block cures a lot of otherwise unexplainable issues. If you are working on your hotrod and think you might have this issue, you can take a jumper cable and put one side on a good chassis ground and the other on a good motor ground and test.
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