Conventional oil to full synthetic

[Camaro Dude]

Basically, the question that should be asked by you, to say the prez of Amsoil, is why do you not shell out the dough $$$$$$, so that you can get that official neat API sticker on the bottle, and be done with it?!

It costs money to join a club ; ), they are in for profits (API) as well, don't kid yourself lol. I too, as many others, would love to hear why they don't sign up to them, and "just get it over with."

Concerning the above "synthetic" AKA group lll oil you posted in the pic, I take a reverse approach to it. It's quite clear, Amsoil wished to venture into the mainstream low cost group lll market. There is money to be had in this demographic, there is zero doubt about that. Personally, I'd stick to where they truly specialize in, and that would be Group lV oils. Ditto with Redline on a Group V choice, if my application deemed it neccessary.

Yes, I somewhat agree with you, that I would not buy a cheap group lll as illustrated above by Amsoil. I'd rather save some money, buy a Castrol Syntec (group lll) on special for the week in the local flyers, dump that in my econobox/daily driver/etc, save some cash, and call it a day.

[Avenging Orange]

Originally Posted by redcoats1976

let me ask a question here.why is dexos recommended for 6 cylinders? would using synthetic instead oif a blend be better also for the 6?

Too many cars with break in oil consumption issues. The synthetics were not letting thing seat up properly....so they added the blend.

[bdubz]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate all the input!

[OrangeVert]

Originally Posted by Camaro Dude

Of course!

My dad ran his Slant 6 Dodge Dart, and Dodge Spirit 2.5 4 banger to astronomical, 6 digit mileage figures, using the cheapest mineral oil, that happened to be on "special" in the flyers. We are talking cents per quart, not dollars, lol.

Of course, he NEVER revved them to redline, drove gently, and he always used a block heater in the winter. He also did not care about HP gains on the dyno, with a full synthetic setup, driveline and engine.

I always did tell him, give me your car for 2 weeks, "let me drive your car, the same way I drive my BMW with Mobil 1(this was the good ol days of Mobil 1 ) , and then we see how many YUKS you get!"

He never argued, because unfortunately, I tended to be right.

The point is, there is a product, that is tailored for your application. You cannot go wrong either way, if you keep it real ; ).

This. My '93 Toyota pickup with 395,000 miles gets Pennzoil dino since I bought it at 100k. Camaro LS-3 and Wife's Prius get full synthetic.

Btw, absolutely no ridge in the cylinder walls of the 22-RE when a chunk of valve blew at 316,000 miles.

[jd10013]

put what the manufacture requires and you'll be fine. unless you plan on running the dog piss out of it you (or your car) won't notice a difference

[MrChrisLS3]

Synthetic oil is oil that has been refined and modified at the molecular level. It is designed to stand up to the higher temps todays engines run to assist with meeting emission standards. synthetic oil also resists sludging, which is extremely important in your engine with VVT. Your 2012 has either got full synthetic in it, or at the very least, a synthetic blend.

The issue that you hear the most about switching from a full dino oil to synthetic typically comes from older engines. Put a full synthetic in an older engine, designed for dino oil, and you may have leaks from various gaskets. It was one of the 'benefits' of the old dino oil, that it would 'sludge' around leaks in gaskets and 'seal' them for lack of a better way to put it. Put synthetic in an engine like that, and that sludge gets washed away and leak reveals itself.

[bdubz]

Originally Posted by MrChrisLS3

Synthetic oil is oil that has been refined and modified at the molecular level. It is designed to stand up to the higher temps todays engines run to assist with meeting emission standards. synthetic oil also resists sludging, which is extremely important in your engine with VVT. Your 2012 has either got full synthetic in it, or at the very least, a synthetic blend.

The issue that you hear the most about switching from a full dino oil to synthetic typically comes from older engines. Put a full synthetic in an older engine, designed for dino oil, and you may have leaks from various gaskets. It was one of the 'benefits' of the old dino oil, that it would 'sludge' around leaks in gaskets and 'seal' them for lack of a better way to put it. Put synthetic in an engine like that, and that sludge gets washed away and leak reveals itself.

Thanks for the explanation. I appreciate it.

[UBB]

Since we're on the subject. Does anyone's LS3 burn oil? Unless my dealership shortchanged me on my last service (I got two free with it being CPO) my car was a qt and a half low half way through to my next scheduled service.

[SlingShot]

Originally Posted by UBB

Since we're on the subject. Does anyone's LS3 burn oil? Unless my dealership shortchanged me on my last service (I got two free with it being CPO) my car was a qt and a half low half way through to my next scheduled service.

You probably got six quarts.

Always look at the service invoice and make sure they have it for 8 quarts and 1 filter. I've caught them before with my SS Sedan only doing 6 quarts. No big deal just check before leaving the dealer.

[UBB]

Originally Posted by SlingShot

You probably got six quarts.

Always look at the service invoice and make sure they have it for 8 quarts and 1 filter. I've caught them before with my SS Sedan only doing 6 quarts. No big deal just check before leaving the dealer.

Yeah I can't for the life of me remember what I did with it. Sucks to get old

[Bow Tie Affair]

Originally Posted by UBB

Yeah I can't for the life of me remember what I did with it. Sucks to get old

The dealer can provide you that information.

[SlingShot]

Originally Posted by UBB

Yeah I can't for the life of me remember what I did with it. Sucks to get old

I hear ya, I have a bad case of CRS... Can't Remember chit