Firearms Section

[shank0668]

Originally Posted by CamaroKid300

Thanks, I check them out!



That's what I thought. I don't want basic basic. I want a quality AR that isn't going to jam, fu*k up, ect but not buy one of those $2,000 one



If you guys point me in the right direction I'd definitely be willing to give it a shot.

It's simple. Like previously stated go for mil spec parts. You'll need an upper with the barrel, lower, lower parts kit, buffer tube, bolt carrier group, stock, grip, hand guard, charging handle, and optic. (I think that's it)
I am partial to non polymer lowers and uppers. My brother and I are both happy with PSA uppers and barrels. I believe their barrels are FN.

This upper would probably suit you just fine.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...ng-handle.html
I went with an LMT full auto BCG. It was either that or BCM and at the height of Sandy Hook I took what I could get. Personally I think a good BCG is the way to go.

Lower... really doesn't matter. Get mill spec. There are only a handful of manufacturers anyway. I went with the only thing I could find at the time. I have a mag tactical lightweight lower.

I went with Magpul plastics.

I used a Colt carry handle for optic.

I also used PSA's LPK
I don't have the greatest AR, but it shoots well (the few times I've shot it) and should last a while. Maybe forever since I've shot 10 rounds through it since I built it in September

[Bhobbs]

Just a fair warning, unless you intend to bolt on a lot of crap to your quad rail, it is unnecessary weight and bulk. Holding a quad rail is not very comfortable for very long and if you add on the cover panels, it makes the hand guard that much bulkier. Stick with a regular hand guard or something like the Magpul MOE. No unnecessary rails and weight.

[CamaroKid300]

Originally Posted by kalimus

Well, I'm a Sig fan so I'm partial, but I actually don't own a Sig AR. My room-mate does though, and those parts fit very snug. On sale, I think the M400 is actually right at the top end of your price range.

As for plastic, you've got to understand that a lot of AR parts are plastic/polymer. Buttstock, handguards, buffer tube, pistol grips, foregrip (if you get one)... they're like that to keep them light weight. That second AR picture you showed probably weighs far too much for a "battle rifle", and tbh most of that crap is just for show. The first one, as gawdy as it looks, will be the lightest.

What you could do is build your own (even if you don't know how). There are many ways to do it, so that you can put it together how you want. You can buy lower receivers that have no parts (stripped) or a lower that has all the parts you need (complete lower). Then you can pick the upper, type of barrel, type of system (gas or piston), type of hardguard/rail, bolt carrier... etc. You don't even need to put the pieces together, although learning how would help you greatly understand your firearm.

This way you're not paying for things you don't want/need. For instance, my favorite mod on my AR is the BCM charging handle. It's like 40 or 50 bucks. I replaced the factory one, and now it just sits there. What you can do, is buy an upper without a bolt carrier/charging handle, and buy them separate. See what I mean? Lots of people here can help you with this process.

I absolutely agree with what you are saying. I did some research last night on putting one together myself and its absolutely doable. It would also help me out cause I could slowly buy the parts and assemble as I go instead of dropping the whole amount up front!

Originally Posted by shank0668

It's simple. Like previously stated go for mil spec parts. You'll need an upper with the barrel, lower, lower parts kit, buffer tube, bolt carrier group, stock, grip, hand guard, charging handle, and optic. (I think that's it)
I am partial to non polymer lowers and uppers. My brother and I are both happy with PSA uppers and barrels. I believe their barrels are FN.

This upper would probably suit you just fine.
http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...ng-handle.html
I went with an LMT full auto BCG. It was either that or BCM and at the height of Sandy Hook I took what I could get. Personally I think a good BCG is the way to go.

Lower... really doesn't matter. Get mill spec. There are only a handful of manufacturers anyway. I went with the only thing I could find at the time. I have a mag tactical lightweight lower.

I went with Magpul plastics.

I used a Colt carry handle for optic.

I also used PSA's LPK
I don't have the greatest AR, but it shoots well (the few times I've shot it) and should last a while. Maybe forever since I've shot 10 rounds through it since I built it in September

Thank you for the advice! I think that will probably be the route I go I just need to find which lower and what not I want to buy.

Originally Posted by Bhobbs

Just a fair warning, unless you intend to bolt on a lot of crap to your quad rail, it is unnecessary weight and bulk. Holding a quad rail is not very comfortable for very long and if you add on the cover panels, it makes the hand guard that much bulkier. Stick with a regular hand guard or something like the Magpul MOE. No unnecessary rails and weight.

Yeah really just want to have an EOtech type sight and possibly canted iron sights and thats about all I want...probably a fore grip.

[Mr_Draco]

Originally Posted by CamaroKid300

I guess maybe I should explain it like this. I want a quality, tight fitting parts gun that doesn't have many plastic, cheap parts that looks like this...

If you want light weight or something you can carry you want polymer which as mentioned above is there to keep the weight down. However do your research if you buy a polymer lower, there are a lot of bad companies out there.

Here's an AR that I custom built from scratch. With a fully loaded 10 round mag it weighs in at over 15 pounds. This is what they weigh if you don't want polymer or plastic pieces. Also as it sits in this pic not including the scope, it cost over $2,500.

[13FastBlkSS]

Originally Posted by Mr_Draco

If you want light weight or something you can carry you want polymer which as mentioned above is there to keep the weight down. However do your research if you buy a polymer lower, there are a lot of bad companies out there.

Here's an AR that I custom built from scratch. With a fully loaded 10 round mag it weighs in at over 15 pounds. This is what they weigh if you don't want polymer or plastic pieces. Also as it sits in this pic not including the scope, it cost over $2,500.

My AR has a New Frontier Armory polymer lower and with a fully loaded mag it weighs about 9 pounds.

[CamaroKid300]

So I just found and watched this video...at least this looks easy I don't know about the rest!




So is palmetto a good brand to buy? If I buy something like this

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...rifle-kit.html

and then buy a lower for lets say $150 and after the transfer I'm in it only about $750 + optics.

Sorry for the questions and what not. Just trying to buy good stuff and you guys know more than me!

[shank0668]

Originally Posted by CamaroKid300

So I just found and watched this video...at least this looks easy I don't know about the rest!




So is palmetto a good brand to buy? If I buy something like this

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...rifle-kit.html

and then buy a lower for lets say $150 and after the transfer I'm in it only about $750 + optics.

Sorry for the questions and what not. Just trying to buy good stuff and you guys know more than me!

That's chambered in a different .223 than you want. Some searching proves you could probably use it with 5.56.. but I don't like taking those chances.

[CamaroKid300]

Originally Posted by shank0668

That's chambered in a different .223 than you want.

and see this is why I come here.

[shank0668]

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...rifle-kit.html That's the normal 5.56/.223
Anyway... I'm not sure on the BCG, but I'm sure it would be a decent gun.

[shank0668]

Is your goal to have a high end, top of the line gun, or something fun to take out to the range every once and a while?

[CamaroKid300]

Originally Posted by shank0668

http://palmettostatearmory.com/index...rifle-kit.html That's the normal 5.56/.223
Anyway... I'm not sure on the BCG, but I'm sure it would be a decent gun.

So how do you know the 5.56 NATO shoots .223? ...or do I recall reading 5.56 can shoot .223 but .223 can't shoot 5.56?

[shank0668]

Originally Posted by CamaroKid300

So how do you know the 5.56 NATO shoots .223? ...or do I recall reading 5.56 can shoot .223 but .223 can't shoot 5.56?

They are VERY close dimensionally. A 5.56 gun can shoot .223. You want a gun that can shoot multi (5.56 and .223). 5.56 is a little hotter round. I guess a .223 gun may shoot 5.56.. but it would have cycling issues I'm thinking.

[ChrisBlair]

Hi guys.

Re: 5.56 vs .223. From Winchester:

(link to article reproduced below) http://web.archive.org/web/200805052...spx?storyid=11

by Paul Nowak
5/4/2001
.223 Rem VS 5.56mm

" There are a lot of questions about these two cartridges. Many people think they are identical - merely different designations for commercial and military. The truth is that, although somewhat similar, they are not the same and you should know the differences before buying either cartridge.

* The cartridge casings for both calibers have basically the same length and exterior dimensions.
* The 5.56 round, loaded to Military Specification, typically has higher velocity and chamber pressure than the .223 Rem.
* The 5.56 cartridge case may have thicker walls, and a thicker head, for extra strength. This better contains the higher chamber pressure. However, a thicker case reduces powder capacity, which is of concern to the reloader.
* The 5.56mm and .223 Rem chambers are nearly identical. The difference is in the "Leade". Leade is defined as the portion of the barrel directly in front of the chamber where the rifling has been conically removed to allow room for the seated bullet. It is also more commonly known as the throat. Leade in a .223 Rem chamber is usually .085". In a 5.56mm chamber the leade is typically .162", or almost twice as much as in the 223 Rem chamber.
* You can fire .223 Rem cartridges in 5.56mm chambers with this longer leade, but you will generally have a slight loss in accuracy and velocity over firing the .223 round in the chamber with the shorter leade it was designed for.
* Problems may occur when firing the higher-pressure 5.56mm cartridge in a .223 chamber with its much shorter leade. It is generally known that shortening the leade can dramatically increase chamber pressure. In some cases, this higher pressure could result in primer pocket gas leaks, blown cartridge case heads and gun functioning issues.
* The 5.56mm military cartridge fired in a .223 Rem chamber is considered by SAAMI (Small Arm and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) to be an unsafe ammunition combination. "

[13lstuner]

Originally Posted by ChrisBlair

Hi guys.

Re: 5.56 vs .223. From Winchester:

(link to article reproduced below) http://web.archive.org/web/200805052...spx?storyid=11

by Paul Nowak
5/4/2001
.223 Rem VS 5.56mm

" There are a lot of questions about these two cartridges. Many people think they are identical - merely different designations for commercial and military. The truth is that, although somewhat similar, they are not the same and you should know the differences before buying either cartridge.

* The cartridge casings for both calibers have basically the same length and exterior dimensions.
* The 5.56 round, loaded to Military Specification, typically has higher velocity and chamber pressure than the .223 Rem.
* The 5.56 cartridge case may have thicker walls, and a thicker head, for extra strength. This better contains the higher chamber pressure. However, a thicker case reduces powder capacity, which is of concern to the reloader.
* The 5.56mm and .223 Rem chambers are nearly identical. The difference is in the "Leade". Leade is defined as the portion of the barrel directly in front of the chamber where the rifling has been conically removed to allow room for the seated bullet. It is also more commonly known as the throat. Leade in a .223 Rem chamber is usually .085". In a 5.56mm chamber the leade is typically .162", or almost twice as much as in the 223 Rem chamber.
* You can fire .223 Rem cartridges in 5.56mm chambers with this longer leade, but you will generally have a slight loss in accuracy and velocity over firing the .223 round in the chamber with the shorter leade it was designed for.
* Problems may occur when firing the higher-pressure 5.56mm cartridge in a .223 chamber with its much shorter leade. It is generally known that shortening the leade can dramatically increase chamber pressure. In some cases, this higher pressure could result in primer pocket gas leaks, blown cartridge case heads and gun functioning issues.
* The 5.56mm military cartridge fired in a .223 Rem chamber is considered by SAAMI (Small Arm and Ammunition Manufacturers Institute) to be an unsafe ammunition combination. "

Great explination.

As a general rule, if your weapon will fire .223/.556 it will say it on the barrel.