did you change your rear differential fluid at 1,500 miles? - Page 5 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

phantomblackgto · 12-19-2011, 10:31 PM

It's really not a good idea to change your engine oil before the first regular scheduled change. While the old adage may have been true when your dad taught you to change the oil, today there are additives in the oil that come from the manufacturer specifically to aid in the break-in process. By changing the engine oil early, you are defeating the purpose of these additives.

As for the rear diff and tranny, do what you think is best, but imho, it's just a waste of time and money. Now if I was autocrossing or drag racing the car on a regular basis, that would be a different story. For daily driving with the occasional heavy foot, I'll just follow the normal maintenance recommendations. And, when it's time for a change, I'll also replace with GM fluids.

I had a bad experience with RP in the rear diff of my 2005 GTO. It got to the point where it would just spin one tire. I replaced it with Torco 75w-90 and a friction modifier, and it solved the issue immediately. And, it wasn't slipping on the factory GM fluid either when I changed it out to the RP. I just bought the line that it was the thing to do. Lesson learned.

Camaro2SSLS3 · 12-24-2011, 10:10 PM

i changed mine at 750 miles with royal purple

jordan 572 · 01-05-2012, 07:31 PM

what page in the manual does it say that you need to change it at 1,500 miles?

NavyDood · 01-05-2012, 07:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jordan 572

what page in the manual does it say that you need to change it at 1,500 miles?

There isn't a page because it doesn't exist.

Three of Swords · 01-07-2012, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NavyDood

There isn't a page because it doesn't exist.

The owner's manual doesn't say you need to change it at 1500 miles. However, as previously stated:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Three of Swords

It's right in the manual that if you drive competitively you should change the diff fluid after the break-in (1500 miles by their definition).

It all comes down to how you define 'competitive driving'. I know I do enough hard WOT accels on a daily basis that it was worth changing the diff fluid at 1500.

Source: Owner's Manual 9-17

NavyDood · 01-07-2012, 02:46 PM

Ok, I'll eat crow on that one as I never read the break-in section of the manual. We got the car used/new as a demo. The dealers 50yr old daughter was driving it and only put 2900 miles on it in a year.

sasquash1984 · 01-10-2012, 08:29 AM

What weight do I need to use for an auto, keep in mind I'm not running stock 3:27 gears

The Stig · 01-10-2012, 09:11 AM

Probably 75w-90. I don't see how different gears would change that.

sasquash1984 · 01-10-2012, 09:30 AM

Thanks

Blake_GM · 02-02-2012, 01:05 AM

I didn't do it at 1,500 miles. I just did it at 10K - it was dirty as..well as dirty can be. It was like a charcoal sludge. Kinda wishing I had done it a bit sooner but it's done.

I'm with just about everyone else..if you haven't done it, go do it. The car 'felt' smoother after it was done, also.

malave7567 · 02-02-2012, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blake_GM

I didn't do it at 1,500 miles. I just did it at 10K - it was dirty as..well as dirty can be. It was like a charcoal sludge. Kinda wishing I had done it a bit sooner but it's done.

I'm with just about everyone else..if you haven't done it, go do it. The car 'felt' smoother after it was done, also.

I changed mine at 1515 miles. I agree on the smoother feel. shifting felt smoother, didn't hear the rear end engage like i did when I would shift before chnging the diff oil. Used Mobil 1 LS.

View Poll Results: did you change your rear differential fluid at 1,500 miles?
yes, i did change my fluid after break in	62	34.25%
no, i did not change my fluid after break in; i forgot	30	16.57%
no, i did not change my fluid after break in; i don't think i need to	89	49.17%
Voters: 181. You may not vote on this poll

01-07-2012, 02:46 PM	#62
NavyDood Retired Navy Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: NW of DFW Posts: 915	Ok, I'll eat crow on that one as I never read the break-in section of the manual. We got the car used/new as a demo. The dealers 50yr old daughter was driving it and only put 2900 miles on it in a year. __________________ Retired Navy... A Husband. A Dad. A Veteran as of 2011. 2010 2SS/RS A6 - FlowMaster CatBack - I'm not a Amsoil dealer and will never be one. I believe in its capabilities from personal use with oil analysis reports backing up my OCI's. Besides, I know more than most cut and paste Amsoil dealers which are at least 95% of them.

01-10-2012, 08:29 AM	#63
sasquash1984 502 RWHP N/A Drives: The yeti Join Date: May 2009 Location: Saginaw/ Ft Worth TX Posts: 3,085 View My Garage	What weight do I need to use for an auto, keep in mind I'm not running stock 3:27 gears __________________ factory motor factory trans, Gpi ss4 cam stock heads ported and milled, full exhaust, circle d 5c 4000 triple disk, 3:91 rear end with posi mod, cai, bmr derlin rear diff bushins, bmr derlin cradle bushins, bmr trailing arms, toe rods with bushings, and bmr anti extreme sway bar. Weld rt-s 17x5 fronts and 17X10 rears on mickey thompson et street r's

01-10-2012, 09:11 AM	#64
The Stig knows 2 facts about ducks Drives: ...and they're both wrong Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: The HMS Invincible Posts: 25,072 View My Garage	Probably 75w-90. I don't see how different gears would change that. __________________

01-10-2012, 09:30 AM	#65
sasquash1984 502 RWHP N/A Drives: The yeti Join Date: May 2009 Location: Saginaw/ Ft Worth TX Posts: 3,085 View My Garage	Thanks __________________ factory motor factory trans, Gpi ss4 cam stock heads ported and milled, full exhaust, circle d 5c 4000 triple disk, 3:91 rear end with posi mod, cai, bmr derlin rear diff bushins, bmr derlin cradle bushins, bmr trailing arms, toe rods with bushings, and bmr anti extreme sway bar. Weld rt-s 17x5 fronts and 17X10 rears on mickey thompson et street r's

12-19-2011, 10:31 PM	#57
phantomblackgto Drives: 2011 Summit White V6 RS Coupe Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Parkville, MO Posts: 10	It's really not a good idea to change your engine oil before the first regular scheduled change. While the old adage may have been true when your dad taught you to change the oil, today there are additives in the oil that come from the manufacturer specifically to aid in the break-in process. By changing the engine oil early, you are defeating the purpose of these additives. As for the rear diff and tranny, do what you think is best, but imho, it's just a waste of time and money. Now if I was autocrossing or drag racing the car on a regular basis, that would be a different story. For daily driving with the occasional heavy foot, I'll just follow the normal maintenance recommendations. And, when it's time for a change, I'll also replace with GM fluids. I had a bad experience with RP in the rear diff of my 2005 GTO. It got to the point where it would just spin one tire. I replaced it with Torco 75w-90 and a friction modifier, and it solved the issue immediately. And, it wasn't slipping on the factory GM fluid either when I changed it out to the RP. I just bought the line that it was the thing to do. Lesson learned.

12-24-2011, 10:10 PM	#58
Camaro2SSLS3 Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS LS3 6 speed IOM/IOM Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: Oaks,PA Posts: 730	i changed mine at 750 miles with royal purple

01-05-2012, 07:31 PM	#59
jordan 572 Drives: none Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: MN Posts: 1,720 View My Garage	what page in the manual does it say that you need to change it at 1,500 miles?

02-02-2012, 01:05 AM	#66
Blake_GM Drives: 2011 Camaro 2SS/RS in IBM Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: MO, USA Posts: 381 View My Garage	I didn't do it at 1,500 miles. I just did it at 10K - it was dirty as..well as dirty can be. It was like a charcoal sludge. Kinda wishing I had done it a bit sooner but it's done. I'm with just about everyone else..if you haven't done it, go do it. The car 'felt' smoother after it was done, also. __________________ 2011 Camaro 2SS w/RS, Imperial Blue Metallic - Toy. CAI Inc. cold air intake, SOLO axle-back with j-pipes, Kooks 1 7/8" long tube headers with Kooks high flow cats, GPI SS2 VVT cam + engine goodies and dyno tuned by Ryan/Dr. L99/GPI.

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